Wanderlodge Owners Group  
BuyByeBlueBird.com
Donate

Go Back   Wanderlodge Owners Group > Mechanic's Corner > PT & WB (Twin Axle Pusher Unique Issues)

PT & WB (Twin Axle Pusher Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your PT or WB model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it....list your PT Parts here too.

Site Search:
Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 09-29-2008
Bumpersbird's Avatar
Bumpersbird Bumpersbird is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 2,193
Default Exhaust R&R, Symptom heat in bedroom

Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace

Well most of this go around for upgrades/fixes are done. Lil-Stankes are in and working, some new rocker switches, relocate wiring for VMSpc Silverleaf & upgrade to new 2.4 software, it has a new engine file for the Series 60 @ 470 HP, I'm wondering how that will compare to the 500hp setting they told me use. New water pumps and plumbing, new water outlet on curb side, Gay water tank overflow plumbimg, Fresh water system sanitized, cleaned out behind Splendid 2000 washer/dryer, disassemble, clean, polish & reassemble air horns. Fixed air purge fresh water flush system and rerouted airlines into pump bay for easy access. Quick coupler for LP Gas replaced and copper pipe cut and a inserted union for future disassembly. Jake Brake troubleshooting. Checked Cannon plug for burnt pins and found none. I used a 10X loupe to examine the pins and then photographed them from both sides at 3264 X 2176 resolution and magnified them on the computer and found no burnt or discoloration on the Cannon plugs male or female sides, gave them a good shot of electronic contact cleaner and some di-electric grease and reassembled. I’ll have the spare DDEC IV scanned and checked for the Jake program then installed to see if that solves the Jake Brake problem, The present DDEC may have been deactivated by previous owners. Anyway I need to try out the spare to make sure it will work when I really need it. If you need or think you’ll need a DDEC ECM look on e-bay, good used and refurbished unit at much less than you’ll pay at D.D.. I got one Mfg in ’07 it was used as test unit for a few months and programmed to my engine for under $600. D.D. want $2500plus for a reman and $’s for programming.

I still have a problem with the refrigerator not cooling well while underway. Some of you have tested your coaches with ribbons taped on and around the sides of the coach and radiator area and have discovered that there are unique air patterns around the body. Notably the lack of air flowing into the radiator. I would surmise that this is true on the roof as well. I’m thinking that this applies to the refrigerator exhaust vent on the roof and it’s relationship to the vent on the side of the body. I have installed 5 - 130cfm computer fans in the exhaust vent they will draw 650 CFM. So I think that would overcome any adverse air flow caused by the effects of air passing across the coach. Well it still isn’t functioning well while underway, Works great while parked. I’m at a loss as to where to go from here. Any ideas would be helpful.

The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing the Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It’s hollow inside, the baffels are gone it’s just a tube. I have one ordered, they are hard to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one from Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900+

I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel. I don’t really have a heat issue . But since I’m there doing it anyway might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1" clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my coach and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn’t much clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec exhaust insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and 3000 degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn’t be too hard to install, it’s only 1/16th of an inch thick so clearance isn’t a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I’ve read that the first few runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it’s "cured" that will stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to seal it from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY! Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here.
Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank from ATP, Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do nicely. It has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it’s 9" in diameter, that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening VS the 6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better option, but more expensive.

If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD’s of the ‘95 - ‘96 PT 42 and ‘97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints available. If you want one send e-mail to kguns@hughes.net

Kurt Horvath
95 pt 42 wlwb
10AC

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-29-2008
iamflagman's Avatar
iamflagman iamflagman is offline
(1943-2018) Forum Co-founder/Administrator
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hopkins
Posts: 11,506
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpersbird View Post
I am considering Thermo Tec exhaust insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and 3000 degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn’t be too hard to install, it’s only 1/16th of an inch thick so clearance isn’t a problem.


Kurt Horvath
95 pt 42 wlwb
10AC
Kurt,

If you are going to use the Thermo Tech exhaust wrap http://www.thermotec.com/exhaust-insulating-wrap.html be sure that no moisture can get to it. I used it on a set of headers on my old Chevy work van. I was always cleaning the engine, as it makes working on it a lot easier, just like I do on my 'Bird and I would use a garden hose to rinse off the engine cleaner, being careful to not apply the engine cleaner onto the wrap or aim the water directly on the headers, but they still got wet from the rinse and what eventually happened was the headers developed leaks and when I removed the wrap to have the leaks repaired it revealed that the leaks were a series of small pin holes that had developed in the crevices where the header tubes were routed close together and the water would get trapped in there by the wrap, thus causing the pin holes to develop.

The wrap did a great job at deterring some of the heat as it is supposed to do, but I ended up replacing those headers with another set that has ceramic coating on them and heat wise they perform basically the same.

I have had no experience with the exhaust blankets that you mentioned and I have not heard of any similar problems with them either.
__________________

JOHN FINN
FORUM MODERATOR-ADMINISTRATOR
1982 FC35RB
I'm NO EXPERT, but I did stay in the FINN'S INN EXPRESS last night
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA
VISIT THE FINN'S INN EXPRESS REMODELING ADVENTURE AND TECH. TIPS
I'M SO SLOW ON THE HILLS,THAT I GET TO SMELL THE FLOWERS AS I GO BY.....AND WATCH THEM GROW TOO!! NOT SO MUCH ANYMORE
Visit the WILD HARE RACING website
REMEMBER 9/11
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-29-2008
Randy Dupree's Avatar
Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
Forum owner
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Port St Joe,Fl
Posts: 40,237
Default

i remember getting into a heated disscusion about header wrap and exhaust blankets a few years ago so i'll keep this short.
on every coach,truck,car that i've worked on that had blankets or wrap,the exhaust was rusted out under the wrap or blankets,like John,i suspect water getting into the blanket was the cause.

On the fridge vent problem i would look down from the top of the coach or use a mirror to look up from the bottom to see if theres a blakage or maybe the insulation is loose or something like that.

on the muffler,i would be careful to keep all the clearance between the muff and the "well" that it goes into,that well allows air to come in the bottom and vent out the top,in an atempt to keep the heat down in the coach.
a smaller diameter muff would suit me just fine,and if my coach needs a muff i'll be looking for one. even a straight pipe would be fine,on a turbo diesel the turbo chops the sound up pretty well.
i have installed a straight pipe on several Fcs with great results.
__________________
DO NOT SEND PM
email me at randy@randydupree.com only.

Randy Dupree
2000 LXI 43
Bainbridge,Ga.
Port St Joe Fl.
www.buybyebluebird.com

randy@randydupree.com
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-29-2008
Bumpersbird's Avatar
Bumpersbird Bumpersbird is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 2,193
Default

I was pretty sure most views would be against the insulation wrap. It doesn’t seem to have a good reputation in respect to corrosion issues. Pete is correct it did corrode from the inside out.
I thought about ceramic coating before insulating with wrap,the cost is not in the budget. The people I spoke with asked if I could get to the inner parts and that it would be a better application if they could coat the interior as well as the exterior of the muffler. Doesn't look like that will happen.
Several people have recommended a straight stack. What are the positive & negative aspects of a straight stack? It would be the best as far as getting the most clearance in the tunnel and would greatly increase the area for convection to occur. I would think that with a small modification to the mounts it would be easier to install than the huge muffle that’s in there now. The fact that the muffler is just a tube at this point noise is not very much an issue.
Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-29-2008
dlefty's Avatar
dlefty dlefty is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Somers
Posts: 757
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
even a straight pipe would be fine,on a turbo diesel the turbo chops the sound up pretty well.
i have installed a straight pipe on several Fcs with great results.
I replaced my exhaust pipe & muffler 3yrs ago with a stainless pipe and no muffler. The noise is not that bad and is only noticeable at WOT. I was talking with a 83 FC owner who had replaced his CAT engine with a rebuilt 250 turbo unit. He had CAT do the work and they made him delete his muffler for him to get any type of warrantee on the engine. I guess they said that the back pressure with a muffler would negate any positive effects of the turbo.
__________________

Best Regards,
Dan Leftwich
Somers NY
1987 35FC
"BaBar"
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-29-2008
Bumpersbird's Avatar
Bumpersbird Bumpersbird is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 2,193
Default

You know when you step in **** the hard part is getting rid of it after you’ve stepped in it
I just order some exhaust parts from BB they had two of the three parts. Well I didn’t need that other pipe just thought I’d replace it anyway you know preventive maintenance, If you look for trouble you'll find it
Well I need the part now. Take a look at the photos I posted, VERY BAD! I wonder how long it’s been like this. I wonder if the ends can be dressed off and the pipe reused. Of course this is the out of stock peice out of the three. Yes that's the pipe coming out of the turbo. Second pic is veiw using a mirror. With this kind of luck the turbo may be toast to.
Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	BB Exhaust system 004.jpg
Views:	430
Size:	188.5 KB
ID:	633   Click image for larger version

Name:	BB Exhaust system 007.jpg
Views:	492
Size:	159.6 KB
ID:	634  
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-29-2008
Rob Robinson's Avatar
Rob Robinson Rob Robinson is offline
Forum Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Victoria
Posts: 4,390
Default

Kurt send me your phone number my addy is
wander dot rob @ gmail dot com
__________________
Rob Robinson
Victoria, British Columbia
1999 LXi
Moderator
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-29-2008
pgchd
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Talking

I replaced my exhaust system a year ago last May starting from the turbo exit back as a friend of mine had a leak that caused a fire:
From the Turbo:
- SS Upipe that holds the pyromoeter sensor- custom
madepipe just for BB's - 3-4 weeks to order from the
MFG
- Flex pipe- been upgrade to a "ball and socket design"
and generally available
- Slant pipe- generally available
- Muffler - generally available although watch
designs, some flat to hold water, some rounded so
water rolls off
- Tip and clamps- generally available
Was about 1900 if I remember correctly, I considered it cheap insurance.......don't know about fixing the old one, others may have info

FYI my old Upipe looked good from the outside, did not leak and the mechanic questioned its replacement, I said change it anyway and give me back the old one, when he was I done I said where is the old one, he said I was right, the upipe was rotted from the inside................ good luck Indulgance! Just smile and open up your wallet
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-29-2008
Randy Dupree's Avatar
Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
Forum owner
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Port St Joe,Fl
Posts: 40,237
Default

go to airflowonline and they should have the flange that clamps onto the turbo.
they have all kinds of other stuff too,muffs,chrome etc..
__________________
DO NOT SEND PM
email me at randy@randydupree.com only.

Randy Dupree
2000 LXI 43
Bainbridge,Ga.
Port St Joe Fl.
www.buybyebluebird.com

randy@randydupree.com
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-29-2008
Paul Paul is offline
Grand Curmudgeon
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: St. Augustine
Posts: 446
Default

Kurt,

When I had mine replaced 5 years ago, replaced the proprietary stuff with stainless flex and it's been fine ever since.
__________________
This opinion or advice is worth what you paid for it

Paul LaZar
St. Augustine, FL
Former owner of Ziggy
97 wb43
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
bedroom hot, exhaust, fire hazard, generator exhaust, heat in bedroom, muffler, mufflers, stack, stacks

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Chassis heat problem DonB HVAC, Air Conditioners, Aqua Hot, Primus, Webasto, Chassis Heaters, Furnaces and Water Heaters 14 04-04-2013 07:43 PM
Primus heat ? tjseitz HVAC, Air Conditioners, Aqua Hot, Primus, Webasto, Chassis Heaters, Furnaces and Water Heaters 15 02-12-2009 04:07 PM
FREE BEDROOM REDO ITEMS JackandLiz Parts and Other Items For Sale 2 09-26-2008 10:06 AM
Coach Hydronic Heat Jim Magowan HVAC, Air Conditioners, Aqua Hot, Primus, Webasto, Chassis Heaters, Furnaces and Water Heaters 15 06-06-2008 10:23 PM
Hot Water Heat with Primus brcn General 6 05-11-2008 07:31 PM

Web Search:

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.