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Tires, Wheels, Brakes, Steering and Suspensions Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's Tires, Wheels, Brakes, Steering and Suspensions and related components.

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  #41  
Old 03-21-2011
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isp2952 isp2952 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian View Post
Interesting...

I will be installing the controller on my Bird within reach. It tells me if my Jack is connected or not...

It tells me if the brakes are functional or not.

It has a boost feature that can be handy on windy days to straighten things out.

It has an inertial proportional braking system that applies more trailer brake in a panic stop or any stop situation. Better to have flat spots on the tires than a wrinkled nose.

And lots more, but that is what sold me on the Tekonsha P3.

http://www.etrailer.com/p-90195.html
The Tekonsha is the best one you can get in my opinion. I had one installed by a trialer sales place on a pickup for my horse trailer. It was amazing. That is one that you set and you have a number that tells you what setting you are on, not just a thumb wheel where you have to guess. Just remember one thing. For the inertia set up to work properly you have to have that controler installed as level as possible. You can't put it nearly vertical like the others.
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Jim and Michele Walters
2000 LX ME
'93 WLWB (Sold)
Bluebird of Happiness
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  #42  
Old 08-31-2015
dbmotors dbmotors is offline
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I have purchased one of the new Tekonsha wireless brake controllers for my coach pulled a tandem axle trailer 3600 miles and it worked great, easy to set up and all it requires is a cigarette lighter for power.
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Bob Young
Midland, TX
2006 450LXI
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  #43  
Old 08-31-2015
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Bumpersbird Bumpersbird is offline
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Read this post!!
You have a Pt 42
This would be the install
Legal everywhere and you are in control of your towed vehicle
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Originally Posted by Bumpersbird View Post
Make sure the 7 way plug is wired correctly. BB wired them backwards for several years.

I like the new Tekonsha controller. But if you pull multiple trailers. Will you need a controller on each pulled unit?

I guess I’m old world I like the control for the trailer in reach while driving. So my control is next to the parking brake. Not a great place it’s sometimes in the way.

For the PT 42/43 guys and maybe some of the early LXI’s there is a RED WIRE that runs from the Firewall in the engine compartment up to the fuse panel in the front of the coach. It’s marked with the number #8.



George Morris gave me the heads up on this little goodie. It’s an extra wire that the engineers had in the drawings, but it wasn’t used for anything.

George said the guys out in the shop never mentioned it to management, so they always had a back up wire that ran the length of the coach just in case they ever needed it. He suggested using it for the brake controller.

Like Curt S. I will eventually run another wire bundle down the wire tunnels when I can get to it . Just in case I need them for other upgrades or repairers

Johns right the Coach can over power anything you will tow behind it. I always set the resistance to minimum with the trailer empty and 1/3 power with the car, trailer weight between 10,000 to 12,000 GVW.

You also need to make sure your brakes on the trailer are adjusted correctly and evenly so they work together and to help that one wheel from locking up and flat spotting, been there done that.
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  #44  
Old 09-01-2015
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Sneaky little trick #2 - - - - - - Seeing that the cold start ether injection system has long been inoperative it was (to me anyway) the obvious solution for the brake controller.
I use this cold start momentary dash mounted switch and its existing wire to to independently control the trailer/toad brakes with the controller mounted in the engine compartment. . I also added a red LED which illuminates anytime the brakes are applied.
The brake controller activates normally when the coach brakes are applied - or I can use the momentary switch to activate the brake controller alone. All from the drivers seat - which should satisfy the legal requirement for driver having control of the towed vehicle brakes.
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  #45  
Old 01-01-2016
Blueberry1 Blueberry1 is offline
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Ok I'm getting ready to dig into this project next. Is this wire that you're talking about present on all of the PT's or just 42/43?

What is the cold start switch labeled as? I don't think I have it.
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Nick E.
Atascadero, Ca
1984 PT35
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  #46  
Old 01-02-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueberry1 View Post
Ok I'm getting ready to dig into this project next. Is this wire that you're talking about present on all of the PT's or just 42/43?

What is the cold start switch labeled as? I don't think I have it.
My coach is an '89 PT40. The switch is labeled COLD START and is located above the radio. Sorry I don't know how far back the cold start (ether injection) system goes. I only did this to eliminate running additional wires from front to back. BUT - - - Bluebirds generally have some spare wires running the length of the coach - - - - the problem is to find them
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  #47  
Old 01-02-2016
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Our '88 WB40 also has the COLD START switch which I never intend to use. Good idea of repurposing the switch/wires.

I'm thinking of repurposing that COLD START switch to operate an automated hitch pin...

Quote:
Originally Posted by KCSS View Post
My coach is an '89 PT40. The switch is labeled COLD START and is located above the radio. Sorry I don't know how far back the cold start (ether injection) system goes. I only did this to eliminate running additional wires from front to back. BUT - - - Bluebirds generally have some spare wires running the length of the coach - - - - the problem is to find them
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  #48  
Old 01-02-2016
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Well, I guess I am just old school. I agree with Mike-a true proportional controller that operates off of braking air pressure is the best way to go. Hayes also has a similar controller, which I have on my road tractor. Yes, it is very important to have the override where you can reach it; I have it hooked up to the trailer brake line on the road tractor so the Johnson bar on the steering column can override it. It will make the difference between just being scared and taking out another vehicle in another lane in slick conditions. I have not found any of the inertial controllers that work well on a heavy vehicle, including the prodigy. The trailer brakes need to lead the coach brakes, not the other way around. The comments about the attorneys are true-I am a professional engineer and the general public would not believe the BS between insurance companies and liability law. It makes no difference if it was a causative factor or not, if the insurance company can see a way out, then you and your attorney are put in the position of proving otherwise. Sorry-end of rant.
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  #49  
Old 05-07-2016
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Mike Huggler Mike Huggler is offline
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Default Prodigy Wireless Brake Trailer Power

I don't have a costant 12 V power for the wiring harness receiver plug. Where would be a good place to pick 12 V. Up from on a SP36. Directly to the starter battery with a fuse in line or is there a more convenient place to tap into. I have two Red wires in the bundle from harness but they have no voltage or seem to have any function. Hard to get all the tape off to see where they go. Everything is wrapped up like an Egyptian mummy back there.

I have a little enclosed trailer to haul my stuff and decided to use the wireless Prodigy RF.
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  #50  
Old 05-07-2016
dbmotors dbmotors is offline
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I have a 450 my batteries are located in rear compartment so I just installed a fuse and ran the wire directly to the receptacle
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Bob Young
Midland, TX
2006 450LXI
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