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PT & WB (Twin Axle Pusher Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your PT or WB model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it....list your PT Parts here too.

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  #21  
Old 05-15-2017
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badandy badandy is offline
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Originally Posted by Glider View Post
Update on the project. I have replaced most of the water lines in the coach. I now know which faucets need repair. I am hoping I have one final copper leak to fix. It is a busted 90 over the engine bay. Is that where the water heater is?
On my PT35 the water pump and fresh water tanks are under the bed, but the water heater is in one of the "closets" at the head of the bed.
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  #22  
Old 05-16-2017
Glider Glider is offline
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That sounds just like my setup. The 90 probably goes to the water heater.m I guess I will also need to check the return line as well for leaks. Might just replace both anyway. Thanks for the info!
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Fort Payne, AL
86 PT40
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  #23  
Old 06-12-2017
Glider Glider is offline
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Update: I have all water leaks fixed. After getting the leaks fixed that were very largeI had to go back and fix a few drips. Now she is dry.

Next step unless anyone has any better suggestions are 1: Make sure water heater works(don't know where to turn on). 2: Ensure fresh water fill valve is working properly(don't know the steps to fill fresh tank). Put back all the panels removed to fix water leaks. Start working on AC units.

We have purchased driver and passenger chairs as well as 2 leather chairs (thanks John Redden) for area behind passenger seat. Sofa and dinette cushions are recovered. All curtains laundered(several times to get out odors). I have new toilet, vent fans, and a few other odds and ends that will be going in. I think we are going to wait till close to the end to do carpet, wood flooring and install the new upholstery.
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  #24  
Old 06-12-2017
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Based on the 84PT, there were two spots to turn the hot water heater on. One in the breaker box and one on a red switch that was in a curb side cabinet on the back wall of the bedroom. Same place as the engine preheat I think. Make sure you have water in you HWH.
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2001 LXI
1984 PT-35 - Sold
Herndon, VA
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  #25  
Old 06-12-2017
Glider Glider is offline
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Thank You. Now that you mention that what is the red switch under the kitchen cabinet?
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  #26  
Old 06-12-2017
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Originally Posted by Glider View Post
Thank You. Now that you mention that what is the red switch under the kitchen cabinet?
Instahot
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Newton, GA
1982 FC33 (sold)
1986 PT40 8v92
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  #27  
Old 06-14-2017
Glider Glider is offline
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I've got hot water! The switch in closet was turned on. The breaker was turned off. I also think it has a low water shutoff as well.

I'm moving to A/C units now. It has 3 cruise airs. Can anyone tell me what the run process is. Is there a delay? Will the fan run no matter what? There are 3 breakers, 3 on switches at drivers seat and then the controls throughout the coach. I there any other controls in the bus that might prevent them from running? Do the airs run from the 3 black knobs only or do they go thru the thermostats also?
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  #28  
Old 06-14-2017
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Originally Posted by Glider View Post
I've got hot water! The switch in closet was turned on. The breaker was turned off. I also think it has a low water shutoff as well.

I'm moving to A/C units now. It has 3 cruise airs. Can anyone tell me what the run process is. Is there a delay? Will the fan run no matter what? There are 3 breakers, 3 on switches at drivers seat and then the controls throughout the coach. I there any other controls in the bus that might prevent them from running? Do the airs run from the 3 black knobs only or do they go thru the thermostats also?
If you turn on the fans first it reduces the start load on your shore power. You can use the three switches over the drivers head (or on the side wall depending on year/model) when on sufficient shore power or generator while on the road. The Cruise airs DO NOT have a built in start delay, so you need to wait a few minutes before turning one on after turning it off to let the compressor head pressure bleed off. This can be an issue during sudden short shore power interruptions. They are not controlled by the thermostats.
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  #29  
Old 06-14-2017
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Remember to clean the evaporators,they are not fun to get to,but i have never seen a clean one on any coach i have worked on.
The one under the couch is the worse one,i would cut an access hole in the plwood duct running to it,slide the couch bottom forward and you can see the plywood duct.

There will be a "window" screen in front of the evaporator,you have to remove the screen to really clean the evaps.
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  #30  
Old 06-14-2017
technomage99 technomage99 is offline
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Default COPPER PIPE SPLIT + OTHER

I went through the whole process of tracking down split copper pipes in bedroom, bathroom, and under kitchen sink and behind water storage tank (which I had to remove temporarily!).
All the hard to get at places. In a few burst locations, places I just cut out the copper and put PEX brass adapter fittings on each end (with epoxy plumbing glue) and slipped the PEX in and crimped. NO torch!
I replaced all the vertical pipes under the kitchen sink and the faucet.

Backing up, I "thought" I did a "thorough" job of blowing out all the water lines before the 1st NE winter. NOPE! In later years I had to replace the kitchen sink faucet again because it froze internally because it didn't blow out completely. My current faucet is more expensive and a different (easy to blow out design).

I use my shop air compressor to do the "blowout" (no use wasting diesel fuel).

I replaced just about all the pipes and tubes over the ATWOOD HW heater and added some ball valves and a pressure gage. I blow out the system at 40PSI. The ball valves enable me pressure check separately and blowout the COLD and HOT sections separately for a long time. The last few problems involved my forgetting icemaker line and fittings (another thing to blowout properly and after disconnect).

This year the 1st thing after air pressure check is to replace the BB
"souper duper" water filter way under the bed with a pex pipe section (my wife said the water tasted "funny" last year). I prefer to have the water filter where I can get at it so this is a good excuse to say goodbye to the old one. Initially that'll just be an external unit.

The best place to blowout from is the hose inlet at the pressure regulator.
Last year I lost that inlet regulator (it leaked air). Maybe a freeze got it somehow (another pain to replace).

All you need is a quick disconnect to hose adapter and a gage and valve to the external hose port for air inlet. You don't want shop air above 40psi entering the system! I ended up using a little HF pressure regulator with a little tank and some more quick disconnect fittings and valves so I could control how fast the system filled AND block off the system (which now has its own pressure gage) to see if there are any leaks. NO mess if you use air to checkout everything! We'll see what else develops.

There is more to leak chasing and fixing than that, but that's enough for now! Hope this helps somebody.
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