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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #31  
Old 06-06-2018
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brhodes brhodes is offline
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I agree, but I did lose a water pump on the turnpike in 2014 and was lucky enough to have just pulled into a service plaza to check the tow when the seal really let loose.

Hose replacement did not prevent this.


How about a water sensor installed behind the water pump wheep hole to alarm you in case the water pump seal starts to fail. This would have worked well for my issue.
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Last edited by brhodes; 06-06-2018 at 11:25 AM.
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  #32  
Old 06-06-2018
Wayne64SS Wayne64SS is offline
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very, very true! At least the weephole on yours did it's job!
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  #33  
Old 06-06-2018
CaptPegLeg CaptPegLeg is offline
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Wow, seems like you guys might be overthinking this. All I’m looking for is some insurance. I keep stuff maintained and in good repair, I think, but stuff happens and with an insurance policy I won’t be hip deep when it does happen. Ankle deep is about all I can handle. Things fail whether it’s from poor maintenance or luck. I over tightened a hose clamp once, not to the point I could feel it stripping when tightened but fail it did on the first heat cycle. Porsche claimed the expansion that occurred after I tightened it to almost failure completed the failure. It was in a stupid place for a hose clamp to be inside the Cayenne V8. Sorry for the long story but it was to illustrate that parts fail. Every part will fail sooner or later and some will fail at a predictable time and some parts will fail at an unpredictable time. I want insurance for the unpredictable failures.
After all this it seems like my plan is as follows,
Install a gauge on my expansion tank to see what the pressure does and how long or when it does it.
If it still makes sense at that point I’ll put a 4-5lb. sensor in the expansion tank.
I’ll run some wiring to the dash and install the warning light dead center of my dash.
What I expect to have is a warning light that will come on with the ignition and stay on until the cooling system reaches 4-5lb. That light should stay off unless the cooling system develops a leak that causes it to loose pressure. Any slow leak would show itself, hopefully, by the low coolant alarm or routine checking of the coolant level.
I may be spending $100 or so to get a warning of a problem that in a perfect world would never even happen with proper maintenance.
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  #34  
Old 06-06-2018
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It appears Murphy Switchgauge is still making gauges and senders. They now have electric switch gauges and senders. So all you need is wires instead of plumbing. I think you could use a temperature gauge set above normal but under overheat to alarm you at a temperature of your choosing. Hopefully this would give you time to pull of the road. With a little luck maybe you could use existing wires.
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  #35  
Old 06-06-2018
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https://www.autosportlabs.com/how-to...ookie-mistake/
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  #36  
Old 10-06-2018
CaptPegLeg CaptPegLeg is offline
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With John Wyatt’s help and patience I’ve finally finished my water pressure warning project. I think we’ve finally devised an easy, effective and practical early warning system to prevent a blown engine from coolant loss. Anyone could have run a new wire and put in new bells and alarms but I wanted the easy, lazy mans way. Something that anyone could do in a few minutes without having a lot of technical knowledge. In short something I could do.
If you blow a hose or otherwise dump your coolant all over the highway your warning now is the temperature rising. That happens sorta slow. The loss of coolant pressure is more instant, I think. So here’s the deal.
I used the Racor “fuel in water” alarm. It never goes off, it just sits there and when it does go off even I can hear it. The sensor in the Racor completes the ground so all you have to do is run a wire from one of the two wires going to the Racor. Don’t use the ground wire, it’s pretty easy to figure out which one that is. We think the water in fuel warning will still work.
I put a tee in my coolant recovery tank where my sight glass is. I think anyplace in the coolant system would work though. The photo shows two tees with one having a pressure gauge which you don’t need. I used it just to see what happened and when.
Next I screwed a pressure switch into the tee. I used what is commonly called a Hobbs Switch. It’s a normally closed, NC, switch. Mine is set to break contact at 4lb. but they have others. I thought it would pick up its ground from the coolant but it didn’t so I ran a short wire, yellow, and clamped it to the tee. Temporarily, maybe.
As the coolant heats it builds pressure and at just under 150 degrees it has enough pressure to activate the switch and break contact thereby killing that awful buzzer that will surely drive Obo nuts.
The total cost for all this is maybe in the $50-$60 range. The switch is about $40 although there are much cheaper switches available. The first $10 switch was DOA and I decided it wasn’t worth the risk of going cheap on the heart of the project. Other than the switch you need a 1/2” tee, a 1/2” all tread nipple and probably a bushing for the switch to tee. That’s it good luck.


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  #37  
Old 10-06-2018
D. Troit D. Troit is offline
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Great idea!
How long does the alarm sound until the pressure builds up?
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  #38  
Old 10-06-2018
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NealinNevada NealinNevada is offline
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Bob & John you guys get a 'attaboy for this! Thanks for posting, it is much appreciated. What does the Silverleaf show in the last picture?
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  #39  
Old 10-06-2018
CaptPegLeg CaptPegLeg is offline
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I don’t have any idea how long it took but I guess that’s gonna vary but the engine temp was just under 150 when it went off.
I was just idling when I took the shot of the computer. It had been a couple of minutes after the buzzer quit.
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  #40  
Old 10-06-2018
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NealinNevada NealinNevada is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptPegLeg View Post
I don’t have any idea how long it took but I guess that’s gonna vary but the engine temp was just under 150 when it went off.
I was just idling when I took the shot of the computer. It had been a couple of minutes after the buzzer quit.
Wouldn't the period of time be proportional to coolant temperature? Say the coolant was at 32 degrees and you start the coach. The pressure alarm would go off until the system reaches 4 psi and that requires about 150 degrees (if I understand correctly). So when you stop after driving a while (say for lunch or a break) when you start the engine, the alarm should not sound at all (assuming the coolant temp hasn't fallen below 150 degrees).
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