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PT & WB (Twin Axle Pusher Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your PT or WB model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it....list your PT Parts here too.

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  #21  
Old 05-30-2019
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Originally Posted by arcaidy View Post
He said the fan wasn't running at all? Is there anything that could prevent the fan from running at all other than low fluid? Even a stuck valve would allow it to spin some wouldn't it? And this was on the way back. Did it run cool on the way up to change the tires? Was powered steering ok?
On my 91 WB the fan always turns at about 400 RPM on low speed but on my 84 1/2 PT-36 the fan would sometimes be at a stand still at idle when not calling for high speed. I think Shane Fedeli has mentioned that his fan can also be at a stand still when not calling for high speed.
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1991 40' WLWB-WTB
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1991 40' WB ...From 2008 - Present
1984 ½ PT-36 .From 2000 - 2008
1973 FC-31 .....From 1991 - 2001
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  #22  
Old 05-30-2019
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So,it is possible for the fan to be stopped,and when you turn the fan switch on it will go to high fan.
I remember now that Shane had mentioned that his fan would sit idle.
(with a job from John).
So,as long as he has the fan switched on he may be good.
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  #23  
Old 05-30-2019
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Originally Posted by DW SD View Post
@ what temp does it normally run on the gauge? Mine was 180F all the time, unless high heat and some climbing. I never ran over 195F.

But, your gauge could be off (hopefully).

May want to drain the oil looking for coolant. You could add a pressure tester to the coolant system. Crank it up to 15 psi and see what happens. If a liner seal is blown, think you'd get coolant in the oil.
I forget where the coolant temp sensor is. Just because it hits 260 there, doesn't mean another critical part is at that temp.
Sometimes you just get lucky! Which I will take over good.
I would tend to agree - as long as the condition was short lived and there was continuous coolant flow to cool the cylinder liners, 260 may not not necessarily result in liner seal damage like the loss of coolant flow does when a compressor hose fails.
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Titusville, Florida
1991 40' WLWB-WTB
Body Number F095567
My Location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user1.cfm?user=4

1991 40' WB ...From 2008 - Present
1984 ½ PT-36 .From 2000 - 2008
1973 FC-31 .....From 1991 - 2001
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  #24  
Old 05-30-2019
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Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
So,it is possible for the fan to be stopped,and when you turn the fan switch on it will go to high fan.
I remember now that Shane had mentioned that his fan would sit idle.
(with a job from John).
So,as long as he has the fan switched on he may be good.
I'll just throw this out there for what it's worth. My fan operates as Shane describes. Stopped at idle when not called for by the alarmstat or override. When the engine is at high idle it will sometimes turn slowly instead. I wonder about the 190 degree operating temp with the fan running. Mine normally cycles on by 195 cools quickly to 185 and then slowly climbs to 195 until the fan cycles on again. If I override and run the fan continuously the temperature will drop to 175 and stay there. It was hot today, but I don't know if that would account for 190 with the fan running. Maybe it still wasn't running full speed?
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1986 PT40 8v92
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  #25  
Old 05-30-2019
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My fan doesn't sit still at idle, but it just barely moves. It picks up quite a bit of speed at high idle. I run on override all the time unless it's cold out, and can't tell any difference in power or mileage. John at CoachCraft told me that they have removed several of the solenoid valves that were troublesome without causing any problems. Rather than taking a chance on it sticking, or any other problem, I would bypass it.
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  #26  
Old 05-30-2019
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I don't have an override switch so I don't know how that's wired in. If you remove one of the wires from the alarmstat on the thermostat housing on the driver's side the fan should come on and stay on. Even when the fan is called for at idle it won't whirl around very fast. If you go to high idle it will blow the foam off your cappuccino, however. Mine also barely moves, if at all, at idle when not engaged.

I don't believe 260, honestly, was correct on the gauge. The sending unit is so far out of whack beyond about 200F that 260 could really be 210. And that's if you have a good gauge.
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  #27  
Old 05-31-2019
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Originally Posted by badandy View Post
I don't have an override switch so I don't know how that's wired in. If you remove one of the wires from the alarmstat on the thermostat housing on the driver's side the fan should come on and stay on. Even when the fan is called for at idle it won't whirl around very fast. If you go to high idle it will blow the foam off your cappuccino, however. Mine also barely moves, if at all, at idle when not engaged.

I don't believe 260, honestly, was correct on the gauge. The sending unit is so far out of whack beyond about 200F that 260 could really be 210. And that's if you have a good gauge.
On my 84 1/2 PT the override switch supplied the ground for the Webster fan solenoid - flipping the override switch to the override position opened the ground causing the solenoid to be in the de-energized (high speed) mode regardless of whether the Alarmstat was supplying power to the solenoid or not.

The thing I find interesting about the 260 degree temperature is that if he happened to be running a 15 pound radiator cap with a 50/50 water/glycol mixture, the boiling point would be in the neighborhood of 260 degrees. From that, 260 degrees at least seems plausible.
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Titusville, Florida
1991 40' WLWB-WTB
Body Number F095567
My Location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user1.cfm?user=4

1991 40' WB ...From 2008 - Present
1984 ½ PT-36 .From 2000 - 2008
1973 FC-31 .....From 1991 - 2001
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  #28  
Old 05-31-2019
SUCHESTOM SUCHESTOM is offline
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My coolant sender for the fan system went out. I would over heat because the fan system was getting information that all was nice and cool and kept the fan motor off. I ran it with the over ride switch until I got around to changing the sender. It takes enough hp to turn the fan wide open that it noticeably effects fuel consumption. I sourced the sender part number on this forum, replaced it, and all is well. Keep in mind the fan sending unit is not the gauge sending unit, the gauge unit can report you are hot while the other sender reports you are cool. Short across the fan sender terminals and see if the fan comes on. You could tie those two wires together under one of the terminals to get maximum fan until you got a sender if you don’t have the over ride switch.
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Suches, GA
1985 PT40
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  #29  
Old 05-31-2019
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Originally Posted by SUCHESTOM View Post
My coolant sender for the fan system went out. I would over heat because the fan system was getting information that all was nice and cool and kept the fan motor off. I ran it with the over ride switch until I got around to changing the sender. It takes enough hp to turn the fan wide open that it noticeably effects fuel consumption. I sourced the sender part number on this forum, replaced it, and all is well. Keep in mind the fan sending unit is not the gauge sending unit, the gauge unit can report you are hot while the other sender reports you are cool. Short across the fan sender terminals and see if the fan comes on. You could tie those two wires together under one of the terminals to get maximum fan until you got a sender if you don’t have the over ride switch.



do not connect any of those wires together.
The fan should default to run with the wires unhooked.
If you connect the wires you may burn something up.
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  #30  
Old 05-31-2019
SUCHESTOM SUCHESTOM is offline
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Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
do not connect any of those wires together.
The fan should default to run with the wires unhooked.
If you connect the wires you may burn something up.
It’s been a while since I fixed that, I’ll unhook one this afternoon and confirm mine is wired to default to the run position. I do know for sure this sender can cause the fan to stay off when it fails, and it Varies the fan speed based on cooling demand.
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