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BMC (Bluebird Motor Coach Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your BMC coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....List your BMC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 07-30-2010
AC7880 AC7880 is offline
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Default TPS to throttle bracket, and tps

Today I replaced the 'Z' bracket that attaches the TPS to the throttle. I had learned on yahoo BMC site sometime back that the brackets are wearing oblong holes in the mounts. My coach has only 54,000 miles on it, and there was significant wear on the bracket. In addition the 10 mm bolt that attaches it was VERY loose. I finger tightened it a great deal a couple of weeks ago.

This bracket can be changed from under the bed hatch, or you can tighten the 10mm easiest from under the bed. You can also reach the 10mm from the back hatch with the motor cool. BMC guys, you should check the 10mm to see if it is loose.

Order direct from Spartan and you will pay way less than I did. I ordered from a on-line source to get it quickly, and paid more than calling Spartan would have been. Bracket part no 0213-TT3, (bracket to TPS is description).

pic 952 old bracket on motor, 953, 957 show the wear, 965 new bracket on motor.
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  #2  
Old 07-30-2010
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While I was under bed hatch, I also replaced my TPS which was getting a bit flakey, and the return spring on the cable was weak.

Label on the old TPS was # 29506376. Direct replacement is 29507766. Ron the bus nut is out of stock and does not expect more, next best price I found was TKT Sales.

7/16" and large crescent to remove the TPS Box, 5/16 wrench and socket to mount the cable to the bracket.
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Old 07-30-2010
Joatha Joatha is offline
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You going to keep the old bracket? I almost thing you should be able to get the old one welded up. If I look at how that mounts, it almost looks like you could weld a washer on either side - to beef it up - and then use a longer bolt (maybe a shoulder bolt?).
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  #4  
Old 07-30-2010
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I am indeed keeping the old bracket. If my new one wears quickly, I'll repair the original for reuse.

I'm also keeping the old TPS. I'll clean it out with electronics cleaner, and lube the cable, then keep it for a road spare.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Joatha View Post
You going to keep the old bracket? I almost thing you should be able to get the old one welded up. If I look at how that mounts, it almost looks like you could weld a washer on either side - to beef it up - and then use a longer bolt (maybe a shoulder bolt?).
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Old 07-31-2010
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I look for the reason for failures and I would bet this bracket failed because the wrong bolt was used. around the bracket there should be no thread. some bolts have threads that are not mill cut all the way up. some bolts have built up shafts at the top. if the treads are in a joint that rotates, the threads act like a file and remove metal everytime the leaver moves. some times the lever motion will loosen up the bolt and allow for even more slop and more damage. I dont believe you have fixed the problem and have only repaired the result.
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Old 08-02-2010
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One of the holes in the Z bracket does has a bolt that is threaded end to end. The other hole fits over a smooth pin. However, if the threaded bolt becomes loose, then the hole for the smooth pin shifts around and is not plumb, which likely increases wear.

On the threaded bolt, I used locktight so it will not loosen again. I'll be in civilization soon, and pull the threaded bolt and look for one with a shoulder for the hole on the Z bracket. Thanks for the suggestion.


The new TPS and Z bracket worked out fine today for travel. Upshifiting is back as it should be, where I had to do a throttle lift often for upshift before. The zero throttle signal on the TPS is now perfect.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GregOConnor View Post
I look for the reason for failures and I would bet this bracket failed because the wrong bolt was used. around the bracket there should be no thread. some bolts have threads that are not mill cut all the way up. some bolts have built up shafts at the top. if the treads are in a joint that rotates, the threads act like a file and remove metal everytime the leaver moves. some times the lever motion will loosen up the bolt and allow for even more slop and more damage. I dont believe you have fixed the problem and have only repaired the result.
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Old 08-02-2010
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good for you dan

i dont understand what they rigged up i need to post my setups pic?
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Old 08-02-2010
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I'm happy on the linkage and the TPS - all back in factory specs and working good. I was tired of playing with that part of the coach.

I'll just get a shouldered bolt when I'm in Albuquerque in a week or two and call it good on the linkages. I white lithium greased (sprayed) all the linkage while in there, and a couple of drops of pac brake oil on the pac mechanism since I was under the hood anyway. Cleaned up a couple of grounds near the linkage as well.



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good for you dan

i dont understand what they rigged up i need to post my setups pic?
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Old 10-19-2010
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Just checked mine Dan.

10mm bolt was slightly loose. No movement but could have been tighter by my wrench. No real wear on the two holes. They still look good. There is a significant amount of wear on the little hole for the return spring hole. I will drill another spring hole and it should be good for another 50,000 miles.

Did you get a 10mm shoulder bolt to replace the original?

After looking at the function and operation of the braket and bolts I don't think a shoulder bolt is needed. It is not supposed to move on the bolt. it appears the most important thing is to keep the 10mm attachment bolt tight. I will use lock tight and a lock washer to ensure things stay tight.

Thanks for the tip.
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Last edited by bwinter1946; 10-19-2010 at 11:49 PM. Reason: Clarification and grammer
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Old 10-20-2010
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It's good you checked it out. All BMC owners should at least check this bolt for tightness and signs of wear.

On my coach, there is no spring on that hole on the Z bracket. From the factory, there are two very heavy duty springs elsewhere on the linkages, and then previous owner added a light throttle spring elsewhere on the linkages(pic 485 lower left) in addition. My throttle requires a "great deal" of foot pressure to operate. Does yours?

If you pull your Z bracket to drill an new spring hole, can you take a pic of the spring, and where it attaches on the other end? Do you have the 2 heavy duty springs elsewhere on the linkages? (pic 499, upper right).

We are in Key West FL, likely will stay for the entire winter. In the spring, we will check out the east coast.

We are on Sigsbee Naval Air Station, 50 amp FHU. Less than 50 yards from the water. Once the place fills up later in the season, we'll be in a rotation in and out of FHU/dry camp (2 weeks FHU, then to dry camp to wait for rotation again). $21 a day FHU, dry camp $12 a day, which is a bargain for the Keys where campsites are over $100 per night everywhere else.






Quote:
Originally Posted by bwinter1946 View Post
Just checked mine Dan.

10mm bolt was slightly loose. No movement but could have been tighter by my wrench. No real wear on the two holes. They still look good. There is a significant amount of wear on the little hole for the return spring hole. I will drill another spring hole and it should be good for another 50,000 miles.

Did you get a 10mm shoulder bolt to replace the original?

After looking at the function and operation of the braket and bolts I don't think a shoulder bolt is needed. It is not supposed to move on the bolt. it appears the most important thing is to keep the 10mm attachment bolt tight. I will use lock tight and a lock washer to ensure things stay tight.

Thanks for the tip.
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