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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 01-03-2014
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gcyeaw gcyeaw is offline
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Default Green snow

After the multiple in/out repair of the radiator it is finally leak free.
NOT SO FAST, Buddy

After the snow last night there is a big green mess under the bus.
I believe it is the oil cooler hoses (which were replaced a couple of years ago). There is antifreeze dripping from the bottom of the oil cooler and the power steering pump. The oil cooler drips could not reach the PS pump, so the logical source is above and that is where the upper end of cooler hoses
join the block. In the pic I see some green on the upper hose. Oh yea, the temps were 10 degrees last night and will continue in the low teens for a few days. Real nice temps to work in.

The clamps on the one hose are visible but the other hose is well hidden. It would be nice to
actually get a good look to be certain that is the issue, so I will need to swing the radiator out to get to the clamps. Fun in the snow
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Last edited by gcyeaw; 01-03-2014 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 01-03-2014
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Clamps like to lose torque, U mite get lucky snug up a little and stop the leak, favorite clamp tool is a 1/4" ratchet, long extention w/5/16" flex socket. Careful you don't strip a clamp, not too easy to replace on them hoses.
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Old 01-03-2014
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I'd say it's only a "cold seep". They tend to crop up around 10 degrees or so, throw the block heater on and see if it goes away.
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2014
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agreed,thats why i like to keep my engines warm.
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2014
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I opened it up and found bad news. The leak is where the coolant hose nipple attaches to the front plate on the engine. I have no idea how that is
attached or if it can be fixed in place or if it needs major work. There are two bolts that appear to go to it, I gave them a crank, but it didn't seem to help.

I'll heat it up and see, but it's not lookin' good.

Might try a sealer, any thoughts John F?

Here is a pic...
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Last edited by gcyeaw; 01-03-2014 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 01-03-2014
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Warm it up to op temp. Quickest way is shifter in D idle @ 1000 rpm. Brake clean the mess after warm up, keep the hoses free of oil.
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  #7  
Old 01-03-2014
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Well the old Proheat got it warm and the leak stopped. But of course I
have a dead electric block heater and no power when in storage anyway,
so I will still need to deal with this sometime. I have an appointment at the local shop on Tuesday to do a couple of things, if the weather is good. They are honest and they are easy to deal with. One thing, they don't give estimates. He says it takes as log as it takes, but they are busy, have little room so they get things in and out as fast as they can. I have used them several times and always feel I got a fair shake.
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Old 01-03-2014
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Engine is inverted on stand so you need to account for that, however this is what you are dealing with, funny cast thing is the oil pump assembly. Heat exchanger b4 and after. Warm it up and leave it be, you can't fix that leak and when @ temp it will probably quit. Break off the bolts on that little casting you will be in trouble.
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  #9  
Old 01-03-2014
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I think the leak is between the front housing and the block.
the front housing is the motor mount,the water pump mount,the compressor mount,the oil pump mount and the alt mount. and the injector pump mount.
To remove to replace the gasket is big bucks.
warm it up and it will quit leaking..
Go south!
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Old 01-03-2014
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My pics don't show the little casting that bolts to the front plate, on back of the plate, that's where the leak is from, however access requires removing the head or pulling the whole plate, neither is an option in chassis. Run it and keep the rad topped off. Gard is used to that, oil replenishment.
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