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Generators In this forum we will try to answer any of your questions about the different model generators that can be found on Blue Bird coach's.

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  #1  
Old 09-29-2020
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Tom442 Tom442 is offline
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Default Onan/Kubota start problemo

Having problems. 88 FC35, onan Kubota 8kw generator. DC control breaker and DC Charging breaker were replaced with 20amp blade fuses at Quartzsite in January. I also replaced the generators electric cooling fan,radiator,capacitor and hoses. It was working fine on the way out to Hood River in June. Turned it off then couldn’t start it back up. 20a fuse on dc control circuit keeps popping. Sounds like starter does a kachunk sound then nothing but that burned 20amp fuse. Took the box off,checked the canon plugs looked for cooked wires etc. put back together. Doing the same thing. Ideas?
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1988 FC35
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  #2  
Old 09-29-2020
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You know, that first video sounded like the starter grinding?
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2020
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Default Update. Still not working.

What I have is an ONAN 8DKD powered by a Kubota diesel in our 1988 Bluebird Wanderlodge FC35. In January I had replaced the DC Control breaker and the DC Charging breaker with 20A blade fuses because they had vibrated apart and was having some issues and wanted to eliminate those as a possible problem. They weren’t the issue, my radiators electric cooling fan had quit. I replaced the fan, the capacitor and went through the cooling system.

In June we headed out to Hood River Oregon. Generator ran fine the first two days on the road powering the two roof top AC’s. Stopped for fuel and powered down the generator. I could not restart from inside the coach. Parked and attempted to start it at the generator still nothing. No crank, just a click and the 20A fuse (DC Control breaker) blew. New fuse, same thing, pop. Battery tested good and I tried a different one just in case. So I started checking connections, Disconnected different components one at a time to see if something would stop the fuse from popping. Fuel pump, oil pressure switch etc. with no change.

Flo Chart for engine “does not crank”, “Check F1 fuse. If okay, Jumper battery cable B+ connection to B1 starter solenoid” did that and would get clicking at the fuel solenoid but no cranking.

“Wanderlodge forum advises jumpering three wires #10, #11 and #12 in the canon plug. These are power and ground wires that tend to cook the connections in the plug. Previous owner had already jumped two of them and I did the third. I also installed the two new OEM circuit breakers. I removed the starter, had it bench tested. Put starter back in and replaced the connector on the starter and cleaned the connections. Cleaned all connections from battery.

Now… I get about one and a half seconds of crank then stops with the DC Control breaker tripping.

When we were in hood river and plugged in to shore power, obviously the generator was not running. We were sitting under the awning one evening and heard what sounded like a pop and that magic electrical smoke smell coming from the rear of the bus. Could the capacitor or the electric cooling fan (both brand new parts installed in April) gone bad? Shorting to ground now and causing a load on the generator at start up and trip that DC Control breaker before it could finish the start? I am going to crawl under there and remove the jbox cover and visually check the capacitor as well as the electric cooling fan.
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Old 10-28-2020
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Sounds like to me you have narrowed it down to the starter solenoid... there may be a starter relay as well.. You need to find out from that fuse that is blowing, what is connected to that first. I purchased a DC current clamp on meter just for situations like this.
Here is the one I purchased:
Klein Tools CL380 Electrical Tester, Digital Clamp Meter and Non-Contact Voltage Tester, Auto-Ranging and TRMS, 400 Amps, LCD Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P323914...ing=UTF8&psc=1
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  #5  
Old 11-03-2020
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Default I think I got it!

The fuel shut-off solenoid was pulling in when I tried to start it. So I ASSumed it was ok. I ohm'd it out and it wasn't right, connected it to battery and it pulled in lethargically but didn't snap in. Two readings should be different plunger in and out. PO had left what looks like the original in the bus (thinking why would he leave a bad one). It snapped right in when connected and ohm reading looked right. These have a switch in the bottom that the plunger contacts to hold it in. You can see it is out of place and did not allow the plunger to depress at all.
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  #6  
Old 05-09-2021
Robert & Dianne Robert & Dianne is offline
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Hello Tom
Do you have the Onan part # for this stop/start solenoid. Mine just went bad. Can't read any of the numbers on it. The solenoid you have pictured to the left is not an Onan, correct?
Thank you
Robert
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Old 05-09-2021
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Default Yes it is not an Onan part

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFNTZCO...roduct_details
I hope this helps!
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Old 05-09-2021
GregOC GregOC is offline
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After market po hacks muff the board and stuff appear when one battery bank is shut down. Some controls to the relays that prompt start and shut down run off of different banks.

Add to that a at camp repair that power a switch with both banks and that swith dual power path becomes a hard path for Catipillar . Best way to tell is to disconnect one battery bank and look for dcv on the out side.



Much like how you can burn a tow'ed car trickle wire at the teather plug by trying to start a weak battery towe'd while plugged in with no or over valued fuse
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Old 05-09-2021
Robert & Dianne Robert & Dianne is offline
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Thank you Tom
One more question...is the Amazon one that you sent me the link for the one that was bad in your bus or was it the onan solenoid that was bad? Also any modification needed for the amazon solenoid for it to work on the Onan generator?
Robert
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  #10  
Old 05-09-2021
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Default Yes an no

A P.O. had replaced the Onan original with an aftermarket solenoid and it went bad, luckily he had the onan solenoid as a backup. So I’m using the original currently and have a backup like the Amazon link.
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