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Generators In this forum we will try to answer any of your questions about the different model generators that can be found on Blue Bird coach's.

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  #31  
Old 06-04-2011
markusfmeyer markusfmeyer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmansax View Post
Marcus, try these people:

Tom Osborne
Milledgeville Aviation, INC
Generator Division
216 Airport Rd NE
Milledgeville, GA 31061
478-453-9358
478-453-0642 fax
478-457-5524 cell


He had a Stamford type 13KW I wish I had bought the first time around. You can check your mounting & he can send you one that will mate right up.

(disclaimer: I have no interest in the business)





There is a retired Onan dealer on another board I belong to & he says not to by a Quiet Diesel. They have been nothing but trouble. I don't have one so I don't know, just quoting him.

TOM
Tom - I saw them on ebay as well.

I had an Onan in my former SOB and wasn't thrilled with it. Had a cheap part go bad, but to replace it, had to remove the entire generator out of the coach to get to the part. Had lots of little issues with it as well.
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Phoenixville, PA
1986 PT40 6V92
VB 1570
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  #32  
Old 06-04-2011
john wheeler john wheeler is offline
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Markus
If possible can you explain how to test the rotor and or field.
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Hanford,CA
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  #33  
Old 06-04-2011
oldmansax oldmansax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john wheeler View Post
Markus
If possible can you explain how to test the rotor and or field.
I'm not Marcus but I can tell you how I checked mine.

You check the stator by removing the stator leads from the rectifier & check the resistance of the windings using their stated procedure. To check the rotor you measure the resistance of the windings as well. In both instances, you need to specs for YOUR PARTICULAR GENERATOR. The Onan guy checked mine first using the wrong specs. He then called me with the right ones & I checked again. That was how I found out my stator had failed.

TOM
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  #34  
Old 06-05-2011
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Dieselbird01 Dieselbird01 is offline
John Wyatt – Administrator/Moderator
 
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Default No output - 15 kW Power Tech generator

Quote:
Originally Posted by jks_les View Post

Try a replacement 2amp fuse. Worked for us. Ordered it from ....come on Jonh Wyatt, he has pictures too !

Gene Sharp 93' WL 40'
Ohio
Hi Gene,

Not that this applies to Marcus' generator - but rather than saying “try a replacement 2 amp fuse. Worked for us”……. I might have said we traced the “no output” problem on Gene’s 15 kW Power Tech generator to a defective 2.5 Amp 250 volt E-T-A circuit breaker/switch in the voltage regulator circuit which prevented the build-up of current in the Exciter Field.

The defective E-T-A circuit breaker/switch was a (2.5 A - 250 volt) 45-700-IG1-P10-DD. We ordered a replacement 2.5 Amp 250 volt E-T-A circuit breaker/switch from Allied Electronics (E-T-A part number 2-5700-IG1-P10-DD-2.5) (Allied Electronics part number 677-0513) $16.13 each.

It should be noted that the circuit breaker/switch was not tripped - it was physically in the closed position but electrically open. Manually switching and resetting it multiple times did not help.
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John Wyatt
Titusville, Florida
1991 40' WLWB-WTB
Body Number F095567
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1991 40' WB ...From 2008 - Present
1984 ½ PT-36 .From 2000 - 2008
1973 FC-31 .....From 1991 - 2001
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  #35  
Old 06-05-2011
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racin41bb racin41bb is offline
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I believe the fuse that Marcus has checked & found OK is the 8 amp one located under the cover on the back of the generator. This is the exciter circuit & the normal current flow is 2-3 amps @ 12+ VDC.

The only other fuse on our Kohler is a 10 amp located on the front of the control box.

Bill
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"IRON HOUSE"
1987 FC-35SB ('87 factory demo)
Cat 3208ATAAC-300
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  #36  
Old 06-05-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racin41bb View Post
I believe the fuse that Marcus has checked & found OK is the 8 amp one located under the cover on the back of the generator. This is the exciter circuit & the normal current flow is 2-3 amps @ 12+ VDC.

The only other fuse on our Kohler is a 10 amp located on the front of the control box.

Bill
I don’t think Markus found the fuse to be OK. I think he said the fuse blows because the rotor is shot, pulling 21amps at 2100 rpm.
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John Wyatt
Titusville, Florida
1991 40' WLWB-WTB
Body Number F095567
My Location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user1.cfm?user=4

1991 40' WB ...From 2008 - Present
1984 ½ PT-36 .From 2000 - 2008
1973 FC-31 .....From 1991 - 2001
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  #37  
Old 06-05-2011
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Turbokitty Turbokitty is offline
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There is a retired Onan dealer on another board I belong to & he says not to by a Quiet Diesel. They have been nothing but trouble. I don't have one so I don't know, just quoting him.

TOM[/QUOTE]

Tom,

Maybe thats why there is so many for sale

So far so good with mine. I have a buddy who has one and he has had a lot of troubles with his. Apparently the older ones liked to spit the permanent magnets off the rotor taking out the stator in the process A $2,500.00 repair bill too Ya never know!
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Ryan and Michelle Saari
Timberlake Products Group, Inc.
1985 PT36
1983 FC35RB Left me for Atlanta!
Clearwater, Florida
https://www.timberlakeproductsgroup.com/
https://www.ebay.com/str/timberlakeproductsgroup
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  #38  
Old 06-05-2011
markusfmeyer markusfmeyer is offline
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Y
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselbird01 View Post
I don’t think Markus found the fuse to be OK. I think he said the fuse blows because the rotor is shot, pulling 21amps at 2100 rpm.
Correct. This is the small inline fuse near the regulator. For some reason mine doesn't have a 10 amp fuse on the control box.
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1986 PT40 6V92
VB 1570
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  #39  
Old 06-05-2011
markusfmeyer markusfmeyer is offline
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Originally Posted by john wheeler View Post
Markus
If possible can you explain how to test the rotor and or field.
Not sure how he tested it, but Tom gave what sounds like a good description.
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Phoenixville, PA
1986 PT40 6V92
VB 1570
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  #40  
Old 06-06-2011
markusfmeyer markusfmeyer is offline
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So I gave the go-ahead today to order a new generator, made by Marathon. Brushless design, supposedly sized/shaped to avoid exhaust reconfigurations. He has till the 18th to get it all wrapped up so I can get the coach back and packed for our summer trip around the Great Lakes. Fingers crossed.....

Interesting writeup I found on how the brushless models work:

HOW VOLTAGE REGULATORS AND BRUSHLESS GENERATORS WORK
Customers often ask, just what does a generator voltage regulator do, how does it work? How does a brushless generator work?
A voltage regulator does, just what it's name implies, it regulates the output voltage of the generator. It does this using a very small portion of the generators output, and converting that AC voltage into a DC current that is inversely proportional to the generators output voltage (once it reaches full voltage). Basically, the more voltage output of the generator, the less DC current the voltage regulator produces.
A brushless generator consists of a part that spins called an armature, this is most often connected to your engines flywheel, and a part that doesn't spin, this is called the stator. When the engine starts to spin the armature, residual magnetism in the armature induces a small voltage in the output windings of the stator, most often over 10 volts, but not allot more.
This voltage is converted to a DC current by the voltage regulator, which is connected to a second set of windings in the stator, called the exciter windings. This DC current in the exciter windings forms an electro magnet, which induces an ac current in the matching exciter windings in the armature. The exciter windings in the armature are connected to units called rotating rectifiers which convert (rectify) the AC current into DC current.
The DC output of the rotating rectifiers is connected to the main windings in the armature. This current creates an electro magnet in the armature, which induces a larger voltage into the output windings of the stator. The voltage regulator uses this increased voltage to produce more DC current, and the cycle continues until the generator reaches full operating voltage.
When the generator output reaches full operating voltage, the generator voltage regulator reduces the amount of DC current that it produces, thus in effect lowering the output voltage of the generator. At the correct output voltage, with a non changing load on the generator, the voltage regulator comes into a state of equilibrium where it produces just enough current to keep the generator producing the correct output voltage.
If you add load to the generator, the first thing that happens is that the output voltage drops a little. The generator voltage regulator increases the amount of current it produces, raising the voltage back to it's proper level. If you reduce the load on the generator, just the opposite occurs. The output voltage goes up, and the voltage regulator reduces the amount of DC current that it produces, and the voltage drops
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