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Old 07-10-2008
lonestar382's Avatar
lonestar382 lonestar382 is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Prosper
Posts: 153
Default aquahot ???'s

ok after several different attempts, I am at a loss for how to generate hot water using the aquahot. The coach sat for sometime, so I may have some internal issues, but I don't know where to start. I flip the hydronic heat switch on the dash, checked coolant level (which was VERY low) and turn on hotwater. Nothing but cold. So what am I missing, or where do I start. I don't have an aquahot manual, so I'm at a total loss.

Corey & Jenni Graham
1996 PT42'
Prosper, TX
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Old 07-10-2008
fxdwg fxdwg is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: okc
Posts: 3,843

Does the AH unit fire up so you're getting hot exhaust out it's tailpipe? The AH coolant should ONLY be checked when the system is HOT. Mine is also apparently very low when cold, but up where it should be when the AH system is doing it's thing. It will take a little time to generate hot water (maybe an hour?- I don't remember for certain), if you haven't driven the coach. As long as the valves are in the correct positions, the engine will give you a "headstart" on hot water. So when you pull off to park, you'll only have to turn on you hydronic heating switch to maintain hot water as the engine has already got it ready to go. Your AH tailpipe is right next to the genset exhaust (lower outlet, that should be capped). For a close maual, you can go to the aquahot.com site, they have manuals there. You coming up to Thackerville next weekend? I could copy mine and bring it to you!
96 WTOS 42'

don't waste your time with a usa-spec ipod adapter- poor products with poor support

Last edited by fxdwg; 07-10-2008 at 04:40 PM. Reason: punctuation
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Old 07-10-2008
peteaeonix's Avatar
peteaeonix peteaeonix is offline
Former Bird Owner
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ridgefield
Posts: 2,010

had my dash switch fail, causing me to believe that the A-H was broken. The switch has no impact on the engine heat exchanger or on the electric element. My A-H always seems to be "on" at all times.

There are, of course, fuses somewhere that will also affect the system.

You should be careful to NEVER run the burner if there is insufficient coolant in the A-H or if there is no water in the system. The tubing can be overheated very rapidly and be expensively ruined. I'd err on overfilling than underfilling -- but the hot-level check is most reliable.

The burner needs to be serviced annually. This service usually requires replacement of the burner orifice and the (2) fuel filters. There's a small Racor filter behind the door in the water/sewer service compartment. A second in-line fuel filter is inside the A-H enclosure. The various burner components need to be cleaned (if necessary) and the electronic igniter needs to be adjusted to the proper spacing.

If operating, the system should produce hot water after it's been plugged in to shore power for a few hours or if the coach has been run over the road. I'm unaware of any valves that "turn off" my A-H -- it always seems to be on.

When the burner starts, you should hear a whoosing noise mixed with a high-pitched whine when the burner is running -- the sound of the flame and the fuel pump -- and the exhaust (next to the lower generator exhaust that might have a cap on it) will be quite hot. If you have a sensitive nose, you may smell a slight 'kerosene' odor when it's burning. When the burner kicks on, hot water should become available fairly quickly (in a few minutes). The A-H system is a continuous heat-type hot water heater, and assuming that the incoming water is not too cold, it will provide you with an 'endless' supply of hot water.

The electric element is not sufficient for a shower, but it provides "immediate" hot water for sinks, etc. (although I note a modest time-lag as the lines from the A-H to the kitchen or bath sink are cleared of cool water). Continued demand should cause the burner to kick on.

You can also force the burner to kick on by turning on the AC switches at the dash, and setting the wall thermostats in the bedroom, and mid-coach near the galley to "gas heat" and set the temperature above the ambient temperature. A dedicated thermostat in the bath (house-type) operates the A-H while a second thermostat in the bath operates an electric heater that's usually under the sink. Turning on the thermostats should kick on the fans in the heat radiators hidden under the bed, somewhere in the bath, and under the galley and usually under the sofa. WIthin 30 to 60 seconds the burner should come on.

I note that when I got my coach, the hot water did not seem very hot nor did it seem to be "forever".... I found a certified A-H technician and had the unit serviced. He found the mixer valve in the A-H was set 'low' mixing excessive cold water in to the heated water. It was readjusted and now I can boil lobsters in the shower, if I should choose to do so.

I can recommend a mobil A-H technician in the Denver area (if interested, ask and I'll try to dig out the name). Otherwise, visit the A-H web site and contact them for a referral to a technician in your area. It may be easiest to have a certified A-H tech do a full service on your unit -- you can then watch and see what he does and then make a determination if you want to do the service yourself or not in the future.

Pete Masterson
(former) 95 WBDA 42'
(now) 2011 Roadtrek RS-Adventerous
Ridgefield, WA
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