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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #21  
Old 10-01-2011
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WestySKPs WestySKPs is offline
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Jerry,

Quick Cable makes a lug that is both crimpable and solderable:

http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=74

MnM
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  #22  
Old 10-01-2011
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NH Bill NH Bill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwmp View Post
I used a commercial grade 2/0 Burndy Hand crimper to install a new terminal. If I had been at my shop when I discovered it, I would have soldered the connections using copper terminals and solder slugs. Then cover/protect the connections with heat shrink.
When I saw the mention of soldering large battery cable ends I was thinking I once heard there was a reason not to do this but forget why. Looking around I came across this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs

Never heard of NSPA but it looks like this company has a large array of sealed connectors and it looks like good quality.

http://www.nspa.com/products.html

What do y'all think?

NH BIll
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Last edited by NH Bill; 10-01-2011 at 11:05 AM.
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  #23  
Old 10-01-2011
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Bill,

that is the method I would have used if I had been at the shop. My coach is currently in Chattanooga under covered storage.

Mike, thanks for the link, that may be a little more convienent than the slugs and flux.
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  #24  
Old 10-01-2011
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Bill,

Thanks for the video. Similar to you I had been having staring issues. It seems that the PO of my bus did not see the value of solder or insulating any wire connections. I am now in the process or replacing all of the wiring he had done.
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  #25  
Old 10-01-2011
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One thing about copper is that it will 'flow' under pressure. The electricians who did the big mainframe computer power connections would tighten the connections, go to lunch, and re tighten when they returned. It always got a little bit more of a turn. Their explanation was that with a mechanical connection the strands press against each other and spread a little to fill the gaps, this process is quick at first, but over a little time the strands give in to the pressure a little more, so a second tightening of the connection after a little time will take up the slack.

A good crimper should compress the strands enough to eliminate the gaps and reduce any further compression. It has been a standard way of connecting battery cable ends since the beginning of time, but it must be done right. It also seems, in my opinion, that they should be inspected/replaced over some maintenance interval as corrosion and the effects of temperature changes seem to cause these connections to loose the original tightness.

I used solder connections on my old coach, and crimp connections on my newest one, so I am not very good at taking my own advise

What do they use on aircraft?
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  #26  
Old 10-01-2011
davidmbrady
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Gardner. It sounds like a cold forging process.
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  #27  
Old 10-01-2011
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Quick Crimp battery connectors:

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File Type: pdf 4255M Crimper.pdf (186.2 KB, 199 views)
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  #28  
Old 10-01-2011
davidmbrady
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For military spec solid lead SAE top post battery connectors google A52425-1 and A52425-2.

http://www.fastenal.com/catalog_pages/2007/7-149.pdf
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  #29  
Old 10-01-2011
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I just redid all of my battey terminals and got what I believe are safe and reliable motorhome battery connections. I learned from long experience (making lots of mistakes) to do this.

1. They have to be strong and that means no one sided crimps, but a crimp that goes 360 degrees around the terminal lug so that it fuses the copper together with no voids between the copper and the terminal lug splice. This is what I use or one similar to it. You cannot pull the crimps apart and they form a crimp that fuses the copper. Ask Shane? http://tinyurl.com/62lx2tb


2. Don't use welding cable (yep I used it at first years ago but learned my lesson). Use automotive battery cable. The difference? The covering. Try and cut or abraid the covering of the automotive cable and then the welding cable and you will quickly see the difference.

3. Use heavy walled sealant lined heat shrink covering the complete terminal area, extending from the lug onto the covering sheath so that the copper is totally covered, then the battery gases cannot get to the copper and corrode it. I bought a case of it when I did my first GMC motorhome and for both BB. Its similar to this http://tinyurl.com/3lzelbf


4. Never solder the copper to the terminal lug since it causes a stress point between the terminal lug and the copper cable. It work hardens due to the slight flexing.

5. Use tin or cadmium plated battery lugs as they resist the battery gases better.

6. Design the terminal and cables to route far enough from the battery fill openings so you can check the levels and refill them without bending the cables and forgetting to check the battery levels.

7. Have fun
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  #30  
Old 10-01-2011
Bruce Bruce is online now
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Tom: Your first url is not working??
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