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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #691  
Old 09-08-2019
gcyeaw's Avatar
gcyeaw gcyeaw is offline
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If the genny is not running (and you don't have solar), then the only power source is the alternator. Bad alternator regulator (or if remotely mounted, bad wiring), bad alternator, bad alternator ground, or lightning strike

Alternator ground means all the way back to the batteries. Alt to engine, engine to frame, frame to bat ground...or an other more direct path if done that way. Don't just look, remove and clean all connections in the path.

If your inverters store error codes you will likely see an over-voltage, which is why they shut down.
You were observant enough to see the 17 volts (pretty good since it probably puts you in panic mode)
and that is probably the dash gauge, not the actual at-battery voltage at the time?

If it was a sudden short or other load I would expect a voltage drop with high current.
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Last edited by gcyeaw; 09-08-2019 at 02:09 PM.
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  #692  
Old 09-08-2019
Ldr Ldr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
If the genny is not running (and you don't have solar), then the only power source is the alternator. Bad alternator regulator (or if remotely mounted, bad wiring), bad alternator, bad alternator ground, or lightning strike

Alternator ground means all the way back to the batteries. Alt to engine, engine to frame, frame to bat ground...or an other more direct path if done that way. Don't just look, remove and clean all connections in the path.

If your inverters store error codes you will likely see an over-voltage, which is why they shut down.
You were observant enough to see the 17 volts (pretty good since it probably puts you in panic mode)
and that is probably the dash gauge, not the actual at-battery voltage at the time?

If it was a sudden short or other load I would expect a voltage drop with high current.

Thanks for the reply. The invertors don't shut down. The little green lights just light all the way up showing full pwer. I shut them down, but they turn back on.

The actual volts is around 16.8. I know because I had a digital voltmeter in the cigarette lighter. Once it corrects itself, it drops back to the 13.8-14 range.

I followed each connection, but I haven't removed and cleaned. I guess that would be my next step, although if it was a connection, it seems like it should happen following a large bump or movement of the wires. It will happen out of the blue on smooth pavement, and just as randomly start working again.
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1996 43'
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  #693  
Old 09-08-2019
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gcyeaw gcyeaw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldr View Post
I followed each connection, but I haven't removed and cleaned. I guess that would be my next step, although if it was a connection, it seems like it should happen following a large bump or movement of the wires. It will happen out of the blue on smooth pavement, and just as randomly start working again.
Yea, loose connection is usually sensitive to vibration. Intermittent's are always difficult. I once had a wire that ran under the intake manifold on a 3208. It would short unpredictably to the block (and not that often) tripping a auto-reset breaker that also dropped a relay and everything went dead, engine, head lights, and then buzzers and red lights would light up (real fun at night). By the time I got off the road, it was working fine.
Maybe you will find something while investigating the connections, maybe not. But as you already know, you just have to keep looking and verifying till you find it.
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Last edited by gcyeaw; 09-08-2019 at 04:06 PM.
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  #694  
Old 09-15-2019
rbane rbane is offline
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Here’s a good electrical question. 1978 33FC. I am getting no voltage from generator or shore power. Is there something simple I am missing? I am using the selector in the stairwell. There is also a reset switch there that I have tried but no such luck. Any suggestions?
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  #695  
Old 09-15-2019
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AC circuit breakers in closet?

How do you know you aren't getting voltage?

Do you have a panel by the sink with AC gauges and polarity lights?
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Craig Lyndes
'83 FC 35' SB "Bella"
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  #696  
Old 09-15-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbane View Post
Here’s a good electrical question. 1978 33FC. I am getting no voltage from generator or shore power. Is there something simple I am missing? I am using the selector in the stairwell. There is also a reset switch there that I have tried but no such luck. Any suggestions?
Ryan, Power from generator and shore power go directly to the switch under the dinette seat. From there you select Generator or Shore and then it goes directly to the circuit breaker master in your closet. So you either have a bad transfer switch OR a bad master breaker.

It's easy to check, 1st in the closet remove the panel on your circuit breaker and check for AC voltage coming in. If not there when on shore power then you need to check the transfer switch.

As usual, make sure all power is disconnected before tearing into things.
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  #697  
Old 09-15-2019
ChrisRasman ChrisRasman is offline
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Two things today. Took the coach out to fuel her up and took the wife along. Noticed the transmission gauge never left the peg? Forgot I have the BluFire dongle and the app on both my IPhone and iPad and could have check it that way as I only had the Iphone today. Is that gauged fused? I also lost the electric to the drivers seat and the radio last week. I think they are on the same circuit. When we first looked at this coach on the dealers lot that seat didn't work. The techs took an hour to find the fuse. I came back just as they fixed it. I think they told me it was in the back of the lower compartment up front under the the dash cover. Last thing (three now?) I ran the generator and used the roof airs since it was well over 110' in the sun in the windshield, the shades did not help much. I was not watching the temp gauge while we went to Loves. Got back and it was 210. Seems a little hot? I unloaded it and ran it for a while and it cooled off. Check the coolant level tomorrow.
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  #698  
Old 09-16-2019
turnkey turnkey is offline
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My transmission gage seldom comes off the peg, which is 150 degrees, on short runs. And, barely on longer runs. Silverleaf agrees with that gage.
The fuse panel is behind the passenger side foot rest. I think I posted in my gallery a picture of the fuse schematic.
210 degrees is hotter than I ever see. Run about 170-180 degrees even on hot days in Arizona. Although, I don't run in 110 degree days. But, 90-100 I have.
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  #699  
Old 09-16-2019
ChrisRasman ChrisRasman is offline
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Thanks, I will try to go down today and look for that fuse panel. That and check the antifreeze and oil level in the generator. It was a short run, maybe 20 miles. I am thinking if it happens again I can turn the bedroom A/C off and close the door. Just run 2 front A/Cs. I might have had the inverter on too. The amp draw was red lining. I can see that gauge from the drivers seat easy as it's over the front door. I also need to remember I can look on my iPad at the Blue Fire app. I don't keep that in the coach, but I had my iPhone and that has the app too.

Even with the shades down, heading west into the sun, down here is nuts. Parked cars can get to 140' in the sun. I run a data logger in the coach. Parked in a little shade, with all the window shades down, it hits 106 in the afternoon.

I still have to sort the electrical problem with the dash air. It runs, but the fan switch gets red hot. Yesterday I used it a few times to try to knock the heat down.

The dealer replaced the compressor and pressure tested the system when I got it so I hope the the dash switch is the only problem with that. I asked about it on a different thread and got a new switch, resistor and the location of the junction that needs to be redone (corroded I guess).
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2003 Wanderlodge 40LX
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