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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #11  
Old 04-10-2015
Randy Dupree's Avatar
Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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i did not know this,thanks for the edumacation.
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  #12  
Old 04-10-2015
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Just trying to help, which is why I suggested in an earlier water pump post that older engines which have never replaced the pump, should check the lower right pivot bolt to ensure it is not corroded/welded solid which is what happened to use resulting in the bolt head shearing off and having to carefully drill out a 4.5" long 1/2" bolt.
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2015
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Nice write up Barry. I can't imagine which is worse? Drilling out a 4 1/2 in bolt or all the hail they are getting in WA
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  #14  
Old 04-11-2015
turbotoyz turbotoyz is offline
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Thanks so much Barry. Couldn't do this w/o this forum. In process; almost done hopefully. Just getting ready to install the snap ring and cover. Beautiful day up here.
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  #15  
Old 1 Week Ago
adamssam adamssam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brhodes View Post
Just trying to help, which is why I suggested in an earlier water pump post that older engines which have never replaced the pump, should check the lower right pivot bolt to ensure it is not corroded/welded solid which is what happened to use resulting in the bolt head shearing off and having to carefully drill out a 4.5" long 1/2" bolt.
Hello Barry, Just wondering how to proceed if I have concluded that the bolts are corroded/welded solid. Maybe I should just assume that is the case. What would you do to prevent the bolt from snapping? I have at my disposal, thanks to Clueless Dave Styf, a small jewelers acetylene torch and was going to apply heat where the threads go into the block before attempting to turn the bolts. Not sure if the block will like that much heat or not. Any other suggestions?
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1983 FC 35, Bought June 2004, Sold Dec. 2017
1991 WB Bought April 2018
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  #16  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by adamssam View Post
Hello Barry, Just wondering how to proceed if I have concluded that the bolts are corroded/welded solid. Maybe I should just assume that is the case. What would you do to prevent the bolt from snapping? I have at my disposal, thanks to Clueless Dave Styf, a small jewelers acetylene torch and was going to apply heat where the threads go into the block before attempting to turn the bolts. Not sure if the block will like that much heat or not. Any other suggestions?
To answer my own question, I did some research and come to find out it's not advisable to heat up cast iron to retract bolts and also the likelihood of steel bolts seizing in cast iron is highly unlikely. I went for it and they came right out.
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1991 WB Bought April 2018
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  #17  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Bet today you didn’t even work up a sweat. Brrrr!!!!
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  #18  
Old 1 Week Ago
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No I didn't, because after I got the bolts out, I quit. Too darn cold. Getting the bolts out was my main concern after reading a couple of threads here. I'm really glad I got lucky. Tomorrow it's supposed to be a little warmer and should be able to get the new one installed if all goes well. Barry and other members info is awesome.
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  #19  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamssam View Post
No I didn't, because after I got the bolts out, I quit. Too darn cold. Getting the bolts out was my main concern after reading a couple of threads here. I'm really glad I got lucky. Tomorrow it's supposed to be a little warmer and should be able to get the new one installed if all goes well. Barry and other members info is awesome.
Glad your bolts came out easily. Mine did too when I changed my pump. I just had my pump off to change the hoses, and luckily the bolts came out easily again. FYI I tried to use the bolts as the manual says to check the pump gear lash, but the bolt holes are quite loose and you get a lot of movement just in the bolts. I ended up putting the dial indicator on the impeller right next to where the bolts go in to get a more accurate reading. I put two long bolts in the holes and used that to turn the impeller to set the gear lash. I then used a pry bar to pull the pump into position and hold it while I ran the bolts down tight. Then I rechecked the gear lash.
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  #20  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by 1984Lodge View Post
Glad your bolts came out easily. Mine did too when I changed my pump. I just had my pump off to change the hoses, and luckily the bolts came out easily again. FYI I tried to use the bolts as the manual says to check the pump gear lash, but the bolt holes are quite loose and you get a lot of movement just in the bolts. I ended up putting the dial indicator on the impeller right next to where the bolts go in to get a more accurate reading. I put two long bolts in the holes and used that to turn the impeller to set the gear lash. I then used a pry bar to pull the pump into position and hold it while I ran the bolts down tight. Then I rechecked the gear lash.

That's great info, thanks Jeff. I got the pump out yesterday, Friday was too ****** of a day to deal with anything except to see if I had bolt extraction issues. I took the impeller cover off the old pump before removing it off the engine and "felt the lash by hand". when the lash is set, it really does not have much movement, I thought it would be a little looser then that. But it wasn't completely tight and did have movement. I proceeded to getting it out after that. I then removed the plumbing from the old one and then decided to replace all of that also. That took up a lot of time to install the plumbing on the new one to mimic the configuration of the old one. Installing the new one today. I talked to an older gentleman who was very familiar with these V92's and he said to just use a pry bar to pull the pump to the drivers side of engine, pretty much as far as you can with bolts somewhat loose to set the lash and it will be fine. Your way sounds way more accurate obviously, and I think I may be able to sleep better doing it your way. Thanks again.
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