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  #71  
Old 01-12-2020
Mike Hohnstein's Avatar
Mike Hohnstein Mike Hohnstein is offline
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regarding top speed, rear axle ratio can be determined thusly:
Block both front tires so vehicle can't roll, w/parking brake off, elevate one rear tire, a 10ton jack will do, turn the tire TWO turns, count the drive shaft revolutions, sounds like there's a 5.29 in there IF the tach is accurate.
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  #72  
Old 01-12-2020
MRPutz MRPutz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hohnstein View Post
regarding top speed, rear axle ratio can be determined thusly:
Block both front tires so vehicle can't roll, w/parking brake off, elevate one rear tire, a 10ton jack will do, turn the tire TWO turns, count the drive shaft revolutions, sounds like there's a 5.29 in there IF the tach is accurate.
Yup, I'll be doing that next. Just back from another test run and still no black smoke even with the aneroid removed so will back out the max fuel adjust some more. Keeps getting more responsive but same top end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hohnstein View Post
Clean up the area, too much 'stuff' around the work site.
Yup, I have a lot of temp wiring while troubleshooting. When I open up the front end again and take the dash apart I'll get those wires off the fuel soleniod, mount the tach in dash, and add relay for the headlights and fan clutch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssmarinediesel View Post
The aneroid, or FRC is sitting in a fork in the pump mechanism; so you have to slide it to one of the sides; can’t remember if it’s left, right, forward or aft but move it each way and it should come out from under that fork.
Thanx Marcelino, I see now why you have to do that. I also took too much apart so reassembled the unit and removed it as a whole. All makes more sense once you see them all apart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hohnstein View Post
.
I like the clogged return line, moreover the T-valve that the return line connects to has a re-stricter orifice in the flange, remove the valve and verify it's not blocked.
I did remove the bypass T-valve fitting and return line. I replaced the O-ring, blew through the valve, and back through the return line. I pulled the plate off an NA engine and blocked the hole once the aneroid was removed.

I also found two bolts that weren't very tight on the top plate on the pump. I cleaned up all the fuel and started it up again. After a few minutes I can see the fuel return but sure can't tell where it's coming from? Throttle shaft looks dry, but wet higher up? I'll keep looking...
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  #73  
Old 01-12-2020
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Those pumps can be a rascal to seal up. Bright light is good, and absorbtion pads.
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  #74  
Old 01-12-2020
flyingjunebugs flyingjunebugs is offline
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Default Diesel fuel seepage.

Hi Mike,
At the airlines, working fuel seepage problems on the wings. Found that finding them was easier by touch than by your eyes with diesel/Jet A.
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  #75  
Old 01-16-2020
MRPutz MRPutz is offline
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Well, this just gets better and better...

Jacked the bus up to verify the rear end ratio and it is a 4.89 as the plackard states. So now need to figure out why the bus only goes 55mph @ 2800rpm?

Guess I'll have to verify the new tach that "seems" accurate. set up the dip switches per manufacture;

PPR = PxR/2

PPR = pulses per revolution
P = poles in alternator
R = pulley ratio (crank/alt)


PPR = 16 x ((6/3)/2)
PPR = 16 x 1

Dip sw - 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8
16PPR = 0-0-0-x-x-x-x-x

After setting it up I did a full throttle in neutral test and the tach ran up to 2800rpm and stopped.. seems accurate?

So I'm back to square one and now trying to think if a torque converter was changed out that could cause this and how to verify that?

Ideas?
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  #76  
Old 01-16-2020
flyingjunebugs flyingjunebugs is offline
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Default Slipping torque converter?

Hi Mike,
Could be a slipping torque converter, but if that is happening, transmission temperature should start to climb.
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  #77  
Old 01-16-2020
MRPutz MRPutz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingjunebugs View Post
Hi Mike,
Could be a slipping torque converter, but if that is happening, transmission temperature should start to climb.
Yea this year 83FC doesn't have tranny temp nor pyrometer. I may have to add some gauges. The tranny feels fine, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, lockup in 3rd, then 4th. But it is hard to shift to 4th. Have to hold the throttle to the floor and hold 2800rpm and then it will eventually shift and start accelerating. Thought I'd play with the tranny cable adjustment on the throttle linkage.
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78FC35SB & 83FC35SB[FONT=Arial] Wanderlodge[/FONT] - [FONT=Comic Sans MS]"[COLOR=blue][B]Putz'n Around[/B][/COLOR]"[/FONT]
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  #78  
Old 01-16-2020
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Mike,

Mine shifts to 4th at 40mph. Yours sounds suspicious.

You coming to Q?
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  #79  
Old 01-16-2020
MRPutz MRPutz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clyndes View Post
Mike,

Mine shifts to 4th at 40mph. Yours sounds suspicious.

You coming to Q?
I think mine shifts about there too.. but then only get another 15mph out of her. I'll be at Q Saturday for the day. Just going to take the car and say "hi" and visit. Then I'll come up the last weekend with the wife and will do mostly Q shopping
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78FC35SB & 83FC35SB[FONT=Arial] Wanderlodge[/FONT] - [FONT=Comic Sans MS]"[COLOR=blue][B]Putz'n Around[/B][/COLOR]"[/FONT]
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
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  #80  
Old 01-16-2020
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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one of 2 things is wrong.
Your calculations on the rearend ratio are wrong.
Or the tach is wrong.
The converter can't slip that much without boiling the fluid.
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