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  #1  
Old 01-23-2020
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Stick Miller Stick Miller is offline
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Default Propane woe

On my 1984.5 PT 36 I’m having trouble getting propane into the bus. I have propane in the tank.
I consider the stove sort of the bellwether. I get nothing after holding the igniters on for several minutes. I have no gas odor at all. Neither suburban furnace will light

I generally rely on electric heat, since I don’t do much dry camping, but I’m going to be at my daughter’s house or a few days with limited electricity. I need to have the gas heaters working.

Everything worked fine last winter.

Anyone have a step-by-step trouble shooting guide I can use?
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Old 01-23-2020
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I’m not to familiar with your year FC, mine has the propane leak sensor in the bedroom closet that should be on for the propane to flow.
Next would look at the propane solenoid with should be near the fridge I think, access from the fridge vent outside.

This post may help.
https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...ad.php?t=34081
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Old 01-23-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelwheels View Post
I’m not to familiar with your year FC, mine has the propane leak sensor in the bedroom closet that should be on for the propane to flow.
Next would look at the propane solenoid with should be near the fridge I think, access from the fridge vent outside.

This post may help.
https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...ad.php?t=34081
It may not make any difference but Slick has a PT.
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Old 01-23-2020
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Sorry my mistake, I was thinking Crit.
I think the systems are all similar with the propane solenoid.
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Old 01-23-2020
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Thanks. Anyone else?
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Old 01-23-2020
ERWIN O ERWIN O is offline
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Stick
I just went through this on my 96WB. No propane to stove. Spent a week on a road trip with no stove to cook. Heat was provided by AquaHot Diesel.

Our coaches are different but should be similar. I'm sure BlueBird didn't reinvent the wheel on the basic stuff like propane safety. You should have a master propane shut off switch somewhere inside. It needs to be turned on. When it is turned on for the first time the propane alarm should start beeping. It has a reset on it. Turn it off then back on(the propane alarm). It will chirp for a few seconds then settle down. Now your solenoid at the tank should be open. Propane should flow. To be sure, have someone do the above sequence while you are touching the solenoid. It should have a distinctive knock when activated. If it doesn't your solenoid is either bad or not getting 12V. if it knocks then it should be okay. If it doesn't check for 12V at the Solenoid terminals. If not getting 12V it is probably your propane detector/Alarm. Other members have stated they have gone bad.
My problem ended up being I couldn't get the air out of the lines. Therefore no propane to ignite at the stove. There is a small brass plunger switch underneath the stove knob. It was not going all the way down. Either from lack of use or the knob not being depressed exactly right. It controls the thermocoupler. Without that depressed it won't let any gas or air through the stove. Even if there is pressure in the line. Look to see if that 2 stage plunger is fully depressed. As soon as I manually pressed it with the end of a screwdriver blade (not the bottom of the control knob) the propane came roaring out. I then put some lube on it and worked it in and out several times. All is good now.
My theory is if you get the air out of the line at the stove maybe that will help the furnace start.
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Old 01-23-2020
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Thanks. I have a new propane detector and I’m wondering if that might be part of the problem. I’m going to open a gas line at the stove to see if I am getting that far.
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Old 01-24-2020
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There are manual shutoff valves behind the fridge, too. And the main one on the LP tank, too. I wonder if you're little 12v problem with the clock power is tied to the LP detector?
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Old 01-24-2020
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This is something new. I’ve had problems in the past but I’ve had good gas for several years.

Andy, I’ll check that valve, but someone else would have done that, not me. It could be a voltage problem. That’s next
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Old 01-24-2020
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I looked over the wiring diagram here and I see a possible pattern with the clock deal. The fuses for the LP safety valve and the clock get their power from the big filter thing that's under the couch. That power comes through that big relay in the left front load center.

So if this is where the problem lies then the door bell also doesn't work and the clock on the dash will be dead.
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