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Towbars, Hitches and Braking Systems for your Toads, etc. Questions, concerns, or suggestions regarding what equipment to use to tow your Toad with are discussed here.

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  #21  
Old 02-12-2018
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patticake patticake is offline
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Since our frame is higher, I wonder how one can be made to fit our bus and have the generator slide out when needed.
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  #22  
Old 02-12-2018
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I think the one i will build will mount the the genny frame and slide in and out with the genny,a couple of more mounts will be required,maybe where those big pull hooks are on the front frame.
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  #23  
Old 02-12-2018
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The ones for semis fold down for access to the engine. I would think attach the mounting pins to the frame below the bumper, then the moose/bad driver guard to that. When you need to get to the genny, fold the guard down and slide the genny out. It may be possible to even add some shock absorption into the mount with something like the bug rubber doughnuts that SuperBumper uses. Then it would just soak up low impacts without translating into the coach frame.
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  #24  
Old 02-15-2018
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The guy in Montana gets 3500 bucks for his.
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  #25  
Old 02-16-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
The guy in Montana gets 3500 bucks for his.
That seems very realistic! ....Stop in Montana on the way to AK????
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  #26  
Old 02-16-2018
CaptPegLeg CaptPegLeg is offline
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The least expensive way to have a moose bar for a trip Alaska would be to wait for Randy to get oneand on his next trip to AK draft him.
There is a section of road on the way to OBX that is choc-a-bloc full of wildlife and when traveling that section at night I’ll let a “pusher” lead the way. 18 wheelers work best for clearing the larger critters like deer and bears. There are only two land routes to the OBX and we’ve bagged bear on both of em. They are also rife with bears wearing hats, in case you should ever need directions or help.
I avoid driving at night but sometimes you don’t have much choice.
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  #27  
Old 02-16-2018
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptPegLeg View Post
The least expensive way to have a moose bar for a trip Alaska would be to wait for Randy to get oneand on his next trip to AK draft him.
There is a section of road on the way to OBX that is choc-a-bloc full of wildlife and when traveling that section at night I’ll let a “pusher” lead the way. 18 wheelers work best for clearing the larger critters like deer and bears. There are only two land routes to the OBX and we’ve bagged bear on both of em. They are also rife with bears wearing hats, in case you should ever need directions or help.
I avoid driving at night but sometimes you don’t have much choice.
Thats a great plan!
Except,i was caravanning with 2 other Birds,i was the leader,the bird behind me hit a deer,i never saw the deer,the 3rd coach never saw the deer.
It was daylight,about 1pm,we were not drinking!

Also,just to clear things up,i want a grill guard to protect from cars and deer,i'm not so concerned about moose,but i do travel in Ga a lot,and man do we have deer!
Yesterday about 5pm,we saw 20 deer in one group,in a field along the road.
Also,$3500 seems high to me,the guard is steel.
I can get a nice alum one for the same money.
Or,i can build one,when i get all healed up.

And,i have no plans on going to Alaska,anytime soon anyway!
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  #28  
Old 02-16-2018
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Polished aluminum.
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  #29  
Old 02-16-2018
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Quote:
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Polished aluminum.
Thats what i'm thinking.
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  #30  
Old 02-16-2018
rshrimp rshrimp is offline
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http://www.rigguard.com/custom.php

Look at their "custom" page

Sched 40 Alum seems like the right stuff.

We have a bunch of t-top and tower builders around here (Marine industry) that have benders and can weld pretty!
I think I am going to design it myself and have one of them build it.

I am leaning toward a removable center section that will allow the genny to slide out. Mine only gets slid out a few times a year so removing 4 bolts would be no biggie.

Going to have to poke a few holes in the fiberglass cap to get to the frame but again, no big deal. I have a hole saw!
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