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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #71  
Old 1 Week Ago
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1984Lodge 1984Lodge is offline
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Originally Posted by Kiwi3 View Post
Wow getting these off is not for the faint of heart.
I drained out about 14 gallons of coolant, pulled the upper radiator hose to get some room. I'm not sure if it is better to work from above or below on some of these.
The first one came off pretty easy.
The second brought the stud with it.
The third, forth I didn't attempt today.
The fifth I loosened.

The dished washers.
Isn't the dished side suppose to go toward the engine and the flat toward the nut?
You may need something to heat them, that did the trick on mine to get them out. I have a mapp gas torch I used on the studs and they came right out after heat.
The domed washers should have the high side of the dome facing the nut, the concave side should face the engine/manifold. I think that is what you were saying.
The driver side manifold is not fun to get to.. you have to contort yourself to get in there.. I used that tight reach of mine to get in there.

Here is the video were I removed mine:
https://youtu.be/XfZbAVrMQKM
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1984 Bluebird PT40
#F063411 6V92TA & MT654CR
& 1986 MCI 102A3
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  #72  
Old 1 Week Ago
Alever Alever is offline
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Default 8v92 manifold washers

Bruce, the dished washers are installed with the dish side toward the manifold and the flat side toward the nut. They are actually a spring type washer so make sure to lubricate and torque the lock nut so that they are not over tightened. This allows the manifold to move with the heat and cooling expansion. The latest manual I have also shows them using the washer also on the end crab too. Earlier manuals just show the nut.. The gasket must also be installed with the flat side toward the engine.
Note. Make sure the manifold is resting on the shoulders and do not slip past them. The will break the manifold if it slips and get caught when its tightened up.
Torque spec is 30 to 35 Ft Lbs. on the nuts per the manual.
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Last edited by Alever; 1 Week Ago at 06:35 PM. Reason: Added torque spec and note.
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  #73  
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Thanks everyone. I'm going to drop the hydro tank down and take the lower radiator pipe out tomorrow to get some more room. I bought a Tight-Reach and man that thing is great. I guess I'm going to have to get a stud extractor to get which ever studs don't come out with the nuts.

Bonus is I might be able to crawl in there and get that last piece of engine bay insulation installed too.
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  #74  
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I would suggest if the studs don't come out and the threads are still good. Leave them in place. A broken stud will ruin your day.
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  #75  
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Originally Posted by Kiwi3 View Post
Thanks everyone. I'm going to drop the hydro tank down and take the lower radiator pipe out tomorrow to get some more room. I bought a Tight-Reach and man that thing is great. I guess I'm going to have to get a stud extractor to get which ever studs don't come out with the nuts.

Bonus is I might be able to crawl in there and get that last piece of engine bay insulation installed too.
I put a double nut on mine and they came out.. heat got them loose, they have a sealant on them I think that you need to heat them to get that sealant to free up. You could re-use them if they are not in bad shape. It crossed my mind, but mine were corroding so I opted to change them out.
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1984 Bluebird PT40
#F063411 6V92TA & MT654CR
& 1986 MCI 102A3
6V92TA & HT740 (Sold)
YouTube-Gino's Garage https://www.youtube.com/user/xjrjeff
http://www.bbirdmaps.com/index.cfm #460
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  #76  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by Alever View Post
I would suggest if the studs don't come out and the threads are still good. Leave them in place. A broken stud will ruin your day.
I agree.
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  #77  
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I finally got the manifold out. The rear stud was the tough one as the angle of the stud to the frame kept me from using the socket from the top, but with a 4" extension I could get it from below the engine 3 ratchet clicks at a time.

When I lifted the manifold out of the engine bay, I held it over my head and gave the Sandpeople cheer.


So here is the manifold. The forward tab/ear broke off. And check out that gasket - oh I can definitely reuse those.


Funny thing was, I couldn't get manifold studs here in Dothan even with 3 Detroit shops here. Why I even waste time trying to spend money at local businesses? Anyhow, ordered the parts and they will be here tomorrow to install the 'new' manifold.
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  #78  
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Originally Posted by Kiwi3 View Post
I finally got the manifold out. The rear stud was the tough one as the angle of the stud to the frame kept me from using the socket from the top, but with a 4" extension I could get it from below the engine 3 ratchet clicks at a time.

When I lifted the manifold out of the engine bay, I held it over my head and gave the Sandpeople cheer.


So here is the manifold. The forward tab/ear broke off. And check out that gasket - oh I can definitely reuse those.


Funny thing was, I couldn't get manifold studs here in Dothan even with 3 Detroit shops here. Why I even waste time trying to spend money at local businesses? Anyhow, ordered the parts and they will be here tomorrow to install the 'new' manifold.
Good job! If there's nobody in the store older than the internet I just give up and order online from Powerline Components or finditparts or whatever.
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  #79  
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oldmansax oldmansax is offline
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If there's nobody in the store older than the internet I just give up and order online from Powerline Components or finditparts or whatever.
That's pretty much standard procedure anywhere I go for parts now. I can't tell you how irritating it is to go into the local chain parts store for a 1157 bulb and have them ask for a VIN number. I tell them BR549. LOL! I work for Junior Samples used cars....... LOL!

My son bought a highly modified Dodge pickup with a twin turbo Cummins and a LOT of other modifications. He needed 2 rotors for the rear which had be swapped/modified to disc brakes on a GM axle (I think). Anyway, he went to every parts house in this area, gave them all the info, including the make/model of the rear, and nobody could find the parts. So he goes to our original parts house in the town we moved from (about an hour away). Same guys have been working there for years and the still have paper catalogs..... PLUS THEY CAN READ.... What a concept!!

He's walking through the door with the rotor and Chris, one of the parts guys, says "Whatcha got? You need onena them?" My son says "No, I weed TWO of them" Chris says "That looks like a GM #xxxxxx. Lemme see it." He goes in the back and comes back out in about 30 seconds with 2 new ones.

I told the boys there if they ever close, I'm gonna go back to horse and buggy because I hate new stuff and won't be able to get parts for old stuff.


TOM
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