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HVAC, Air Conditioners, Aqua Hot, Primus, Webasto, Chassis Heaters, Furnaces and Water Heaters Questions and information about the wide variety of Heating and Air Conditioning as well as Water Heater systems available are discussed here.

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  #11  
Old 03-22-2017
MsBianca MsBianca is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Layton
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Thanks, Dave and mose. Now that I know the general layout, it should be enough to get started.

And speaking of general layout, I just went out and opened a side panel to see what I could see. Uh, it helps for a compressor to compress if it has a belt on it...

So my thoughts are, something tanked a long time ago and due to what sounds like well known issues, removed the belt.

Next steps will be to see if I can get the clutch to engage, and if so, then get into the overhead console and look around. If nothing looks goofy, then I'll get a few cans of R134a with dye and see what I can get to happen.
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Karen & Brice Osborne
Layton, UT
'91 SP
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  #12  
Old 03-22-2017
mose mose is offline
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Before you buy a belt, a couple things you can do:

1 - try to turn the clutch pulley by hand. It should spin freely (and NOT turn the compressor). Sometimes the clutch bearings go out and people remove the belt.

2 - Try turning the compressor by hand. Turn the very outer end of the clutch with the palm of your hand, which is connected directly to the compressor shaft. (Or you could apply +12V to the clutch coil and then see if turning the pulley also turns the compressor). It should offer resistance, but still revolve freely. This will make sure the compressor is not seized.

3 - Remove one of the caps from the suction or discharge fittings/lines. Push briefly on the schrader valve and see if there's any refrigerant in the system. Doesn't prove much, but if there's ANY pressure, then the system hasn't been 'open' to moisture, etc. and is not severely compromised.
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Mose Wahlstrom
Aloha, Oregon
1991 WB40 "Dave"
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  #13  
Old 03-23-2017
Ned Hoopes Ned Hoopes is offline
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MsBianca - Some of the history on my dash air goes like this: When I first purchased my SP the dash air did not work. I found the compressor would not engage and ultimately found a loose wire at the compressor and cured that problem. I found the air to be sufficient for my needs. About a year or so later while returning from a western vacation my air quit again. Upon inspection I found the belt burnt off and the compressor locked up. When I removed the compressor I also found a fractured coolant line coming off the compressor. I feel that loss of refrigerant/oil was the reason for the compressor failure. I replaced the compressor, new flex lines and a new dryer. I also added a differential pressure switch to the unit to protect from high or low pressures from allowing the compressor to run - the original setup did not have the pressure switch. My air is once again performing to my satisfaction. It will not freeze you out of the bus, but makes it comfortable. I feel maintaining the dash air is a necessity for my use and well worth the effort.
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Ned & Rachel Hoopes
1991 SP - "She & I" -Sold
Jeep Wrangler - Sold
Auburn, Alabama
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  #14  
Old 03-23-2017
MsBianca MsBianca is offline
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mose- yep, those were the steps I was going to take

Ned- more GREAT info and I figure that will be the same course of action I end up taking. Question for you, though: where did you install the differential pressure switch?

I'm figuring I'll be replacing:
- compressor
- some of the flexible lines (along with the correct O rings for R134a
- receiver dryer
- expansion valve

I'm hoping the evaporator and condenser will be fine. All that will essentially refurbish the entire system and then I'll let a shop pull the vacuum and charge (if it's not too expensive). I've got good gauges and a lamo HF vacuum puller if I get really cheap, but assuming I button it all up correctly, the vacuum and charge shouldn't be very expensive.

All in, that should only be a few hundred dollars and well worth it to me. Should issues arise with how cool it gets, I can do a simple home style recharge to keep it going and I'm OK with that.

The only open items are still the driver's side blower motor (only will know on this after I open things up and inspect), and the strange trip ODO behavior.

Honestly, this is a darn tootin' informative thread, so I hope it adds to the collective. The beauty is that all this stuff is right out there and easy to access.
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Karen & Brice Osborne
Layton, UT
'91 SP
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  #15  
Old 03-23-2017
Ned Hoopes Ned Hoopes is offline
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I added the pressure switch to on the dryer as there was a port on it for that purpose. I also added LED to let me know when the compressor clutch is energized.
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Ned & Rachel Hoopes
1991 SP - "She & I" -Sold
Jeep Wrangler - Sold
Auburn, Alabama
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  #16  
Old 05-19-2017
Debugjaws Debugjaws is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mose View Post
I've been in and out of there many times now. Not sure if the SP and WB are identical up front. And there are different cabinet options as well. Mine has white vinyl flippers on either side of the TV. Others have wood doors instead. However in both cases, there's carpeted plywood panels inside that can be removed relatively easily. Screws in each corner that can be found with a magnet. There are also four big bolts that can be removed and the ENTIRE panel hinges down for access to the back of the upper gauge panel, speakers, ducts, etc. Let me know when you get in there.



We just acquired ours last summer. Maiden voyage was from Vegas to Oregon. I didn't want to run the generator or AC as I knew little about the condition or maintenance. And our dash AC didn't work. It was 108F outside when we left Vegas, and a dash mount inside temp gauge was reading 126F. My only relief was a cooler full of ice and a wet T-shirt on my head.
Mose - I love the wet t-shirt on the head cooling visual!
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Gerry Lefebvre
Newberg, Oregon
91 WB 40'
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  #17  
Old 05-19-2017
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morganaire morganaire is offline
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Location: Payson
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From day 1 our dash A/C was inop. Spent dollars recharging the system, which worked to cool the front 3 feet of the cab for awhile...until all the freon was gone. After that spent an extra few dollars an hour to have the generator cool ALL of the coach, and have since pulled out all the A/C **** off the roof and filled the classic condenser box with laser beams (OK, not lasers really, but super bright LED lights that melt skin...OK, maybe just kill night vision). My opinion usually isn't worth much, but I'd say sh*tcan the dash A/C and run your generator and roof A/C. After all, none of us bought these things to save pennies, but to enjoy the trip and look **** cool doing it
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Ken and Tammy Morgan
Payson, AZ
'80 FC35 SB
'76 FC35 SB (project)
'91 SP36 (sold)
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  #18  
Old 05-19-2017
mose mose is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Debugjaws View Post
Mose - I love the wet t-shirt on the head cooling visual!
Visualize no more....
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Mose Wahlstrom
Aloha, Oregon
1991 WB40 "Dave"
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  #19  
Old 05-23-2017
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MarkYuma MarkYuma is offline
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Me and my 91 widebody are currently in the shop is there a ballpark on how much coolant is supposed to be in the system? The mechanic and hang a couple of gauges on it and ballpark it but it would be nice to know what it should be. My clutch froze up so we are in the process of replacing that.
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Mark & Ginger Lauss
Yuma Arizona
1991 PT 40
Towed 1986 Suzuki Samurai OR 2014 Jeep jk
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  #20  
Old 05-24-2017
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bwinter1946 bwinter1946 is offline
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My BMC has a sticker inside the engine hatch that lists the refrigerant and the quantity required. Anybody with a PT still have that sticker that can help Mark out?

Mark are you refilling with R12 or switching to R-134a?
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Madera, California
1997, 37' BMC
1999, Jeep Cherokee, Toad
1970, VW Baja Bug, Alternate Toad
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