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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #31  
Old 03-28-2018
bubblerboy64 bubblerboy64 is offline
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I think what happens is the heat melts the ballast and causes the problem she is dealing with. Just going to take time and effort nothing easy
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  #32  
Old 03-28-2018
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is online now
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here you are.
http://coolglow.com/14-Inch-Glow-Sti...yABEgIeq_D_BwE
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2000 LXI 43
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  #33  
Old 03-28-2018
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Gatorgrl Gatorgrl is offline
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Thanks Randy! They will go perfect with my LED rave gloves I ordered to help him park at night with me guiding him.

I like the idea of the aluminum tape, thanks!

And as far as how the ballast is held in the metal end piece...your guess is as good as mine. We are afraid we will wreck the end if we try and pry that ballast out.
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Dana (The Wanderer, Builder, Restorer)
Tony (The Grumpy Mechanic)

Lee County, Florida

1983 FC35 3208T "Gen X Express"
1991 Toyota 4Runner TOAD or
1980 Camaro TOAD

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  #34  
Old 03-28-2018
wtom24 wtom24 is offline
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I just completed updating all but the bedroom lights. I found strips on Amazon already the right length in daylight. A bit harsh but way more light. I ground off the rivets holding the ballast in and removed same along with the sheet metal reflector. Added a pigtail to each strip about 18" long and then rewired to the existing 12v feed. Used solder and heat shrink to add the pigtails-used a 16 gauge extension cord for the pigtails-the cheapest wire you can get. Randy is right-getting to some of the fixtures is darn near impossible for us old folks. I am not ambidextrous, so for those that I have to use my left arm to get the screws out are a real pita.
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  #35  
Old 03-28-2018
DW SD DW SD is offline
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I just wanted to mention I bought these on Amazon and am very happy for a modest cost - 10 adhesive backed 18" strips for $17.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The light is extremly bright given the current draw of about 1 amp / 18" strip. Yes it can be pro-rated linearly. They are much brighter than the fluorescents for a given draw.

The light is more bright white than warm / yellow, but still I'm happy.

I put 3 x 15" in the center overhead fixture and it lights up the room nicely.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In retrofitting I just drilled a hole in the end of the fluorescent fixture to pass through the 12V source wiring and connected to the LED feeds with non-insulated butt connectors. I think shrink tubed the connectors with quality adhesive-lined shrink tubing (I use marine grade by Ancor).

I also insulate the wires where it passes through the sheetmetal to prevent rubbing and ultimately a short.

Also I just abandoned the ballast and nipped its wires down to stubs.

Doug
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  #36  
Old 03-28-2018
CaptPegLeg CaptPegLeg is offline
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Heat gun will loosen the ballast. Easy.
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  #37  
Old 03-28-2018
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Default Success!

And we have new LED lights over the kitchen sink. Much brighter! Once we figured out how to remove the ballast, the rest was easy!





Thanks everyone!

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Dana (The Wanderer, Builder, Restorer)
Tony (The Grumpy Mechanic)

Lee County, Florida

1983 FC35 3208T "Gen X Express"
1991 Toyota 4Runner TOAD or
1980 Camaro TOAD

danahcks@aol.com
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  #38  
Old 03-29-2018
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Gatorgrl Gatorgrl is offline
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I can't do any pictures cause I am at work but I will do my best to tell you how I got it out. Once we got the ballast and metal end bracket out of the light fixture is where I will start the list.

1. Removed the top aluminum plate covering the ballast. Remove the tiny screw in the front and then gently pry it off so it can be used later to cover the hole.

2. Turn it over and cut the wires coming from the ballast.

3. Looking now at the plastic receiver that holds the light, remove the screw to the right that holds it to the metal bracket and make sure you hold the nut on the backside or it will continue to spin. This is where the ballast ground was attached.

4. Now that the wires have been cut and the ground is released, just pull it up and out!

If the ballast has failed and gotten all honey, sticky like, then I have no clue what to do. We tried every solvent we had and it didn't touch that stuff.

Hope that helps.
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Dana (The Wanderer, Builder, Restorer)
Tony (The Grumpy Mechanic)

Lee County, Florida

1983 FC35 3208T "Gen X Express"
1991 Toyota 4Runner TOAD or
1980 Camaro TOAD

danahcks@aol.com
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  #39  
Old 04-01-2018
BachelorJack BachelorJack is offline
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90% Isopropyl alcohol from walmart will loosen up the ballast honey. That and paper towels. Using a heat gun on the ballast goo before the Iso really speeds things up. Scrape it out with a sacrificial butter knife. Or shrimp de-vein'er.
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