LED decision...help

[bubblerboy64]

I think what happens is the heat melts the ballast and causes the problem she is dealing with. Just going to take time and effort nothing easy

[Randy Dupree]

here you are.
http://coolglow.com/14-Inch-Glow-Sti...yABEgIeq_D_BwE

[Gatorgrl]

Thanks Randy! They will go perfect with my LED rave gloves I ordered to help him park at night with me guiding him.

I like the idea of the aluminum tape, thanks!

And as far as how the ballast is held in the metal end piece...your guess is as good as mine. We are afraid we will wreck the end if we try and pry that ballast out.

[wtom24]

I just completed updating all but the bedroom lights. I found strips on Amazon already the right length in daylight. A bit harsh but way more light. I ground off the rivets holding the ballast in and removed same along with the sheet metal reflector. Added a pigtail to each strip about 18" long and then rewired to the existing 12v feed. Used solder and heat shrink to add the pigtails-used a 16 gauge extension cord for the pigtails-the cheapest wire you can get. Randy is right-getting to some of the fixtures is darn near impossible for us old folks. I am not ambidextrous, so for those that I have to use my left arm to get the screws out are a real pita.

[DW SD]

I just wanted to mention I bought these on Amazon and am very happy for a modest cost - 10 adhesive backed 18" strips for $17.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The light is extremly bright given the current draw of about 1 amp / 18" strip. Yes it can be pro-rated linearly. They are much brighter than the fluorescents for a given draw.

The light is more bright white than warm / yellow, but still I'm happy.

I put 3 x 15" in the center overhead fixture and it lights up the room nicely.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In retrofitting I just drilled a hole in the end of the fluorescent fixture to pass through the 12V source wiring and connected to the LED feeds with non-insulated butt connectors. I think shrink tubed the connectors with quality adhesive-lined shrink tubing (I use marine grade by Ancor).

I also insulate the wires where it passes through the sheetmetal to prevent rubbing and ultimately a short.

Also I just abandoned the ballast and nipped its wires down to stubs.

Doug

[CaptPegLeg]

Heat gun will loosen the ballast. Easy.

[Gatorgrl]

And we have new LED lights over the kitchen sink. Much brighter! Once we figured out how to remove the ballast, the rest was easy!





Thanks everyone!

[Gatorgrl]

I can't do any pictures cause I am at work but I will do my best to tell you how I got it out. Once we got the ballast and metal end bracket out of the light fixture is where I will start the list.

1. Removed the top aluminum plate covering the ballast. Remove the tiny screw in the front and then gently pry it off so it can be used later to cover the hole.

2. Turn it over and cut the wires coming from the ballast.

3. Looking now at the plastic receiver that holds the light, remove the screw to the right that holds it to the metal bracket and make sure you hold the nut on the backside or it will continue to spin. This is where the ballast ground was attached.

4. Now that the wires have been cut and the ground is released, just pull it up and out!

If the ballast has failed and gotten all honey, sticky like, then I have no clue what to do. We tried every solvent we had and it didn't touch that stuff.

Hope that helps.

[BachelorJack]

90% Isopropyl alcohol from walmart will loosen up the ballast honey. That and paper towels. Using a heat gun on the ballast goo before the Iso really speeds things up. Scrape it out with a sacrificial butter knife. Or shrimp de-vein'er.