Project: Computer desk, new eating bar, new wood floors

[cap'nron]

Michael,
I do not have any expertise to offer...I am still a wannabe...I havn't been in the neighborhood of Texas for a little while, so I cannot lend a hand....but I must say that you have embarked on a delicious project!!
Watching your progress is motivating...
From up here in the Canadian hinterland, your project has brightened up an overcast and misty day.
Much of my life is caught up with more mundane activities. I look forward to the day when I can shed a little blood, sweat, and tears over such a project.
All the best

[al perna]

michael , great project keep posting pictures

[mbrund]

Slow but steady progress. Got to put 5 hours in today on the coach. Removed all the remaining mastic left over after removing the tile. Then belt sanded what remained, I feathered all the damaged areas in the sub-floor in preperation for wood filler. I then floated the floor with Pros Woodfiller product.

I will sand the floor tomorrow and then remove the remaining carpet in areas to be remodeled with wood flooring and start the flooring process.

Floor after inital belt sanding:



Closeup of the areas damaged by removing the marble:



Floor after floating with Pros Woodfiller product:

[Ernest Ekberg]

Michael, I just read what material you will be using. If you just glue the tongue and groove, you will need a thin pad underlayment as if you just let that lie loose on the wood floor, it will sound real hollow with every step.
I full spread all the wood floors I install. makes a quiet, super strong floor. FYI

[mbrund]

Originally Posted by Ernest Ekberg

Michael, I just read what material you will be using. If you just glue the tongue and groove, you will need a thin pad underlayment as if you just let that lie loose on the wood floor, it will sound real hollow with every step.
I full spread all the wood floors I install. makes a quiet, super strong floor. FYI

Yeap, I have been looking at different underlayment that have the sound deading material and vapor barrier all in one.

When you say you full spread all wood floors, do you mean you glue down floors? I'm a little afraid to do that in the coach due to possible damage and the effort to rip up a board or two to fix the repairs if fully glued down.

[mbrund]

Originally Posted by mbrund

Yeap, I have been looking at different underlayment that have the sound deading material and vapor barrier all in one.

When you say you full spread all wood floors, do you mean you glue down floors? I'm a little afraid to do that in the coach due to possible damage and the effort to rip up a board or two to fix the repairs if fully glued down.

Well I'm rethinking the floating floor idea now. If I glue down the full floor I won't have to use moldings around the perimeter. And that makes me happy. Guess I better find my scribe/compass now

[Ernest Ekberg]

Ok- here is what I do. I glue down the wood with Bosticks best adhesive. It now comes in 2 gallon pails which are easier to handle.
The initial few wood runs are critical as you need to figure out where you are going to start. Outline those areas with a marker. Label the pieces of wood and trowel the adhesive inside the marked area. Install the wood and press down as hard as you can to insure a good transfer. Let it stand over nite- with weight on it. I use a box of wood or toolbox.
When you come back the next day, you will have a firm footing to install your next pieces.

If you don't let it set, and try to do too much, the wood will slide all over the place.

These directions are easier to read then the actual installation.

[mbrund]

Originally Posted by Ernest Ekberg

Ok- here is what I do. I glue down the wood with Bosticks best adhesive. It now comes in 2 gallon pails which are easier to handle.
The initial few wood runs are critical as you need to figure out where you are going to start. Outline those areas with a marker. Label the pieces of wood and trowel the adhesive inside the marked area. Install the wood and press down as hard as you can to insure a good transfer. Let it stand over nite- with weight on it. I use a box of wood or toolbox.
When you come back the next day, you will have a firm footing to install your next pieces.

If you don't let it set, and try to do too much, the wood will slide all over the place.

These directions are easier to read then the actual installation.

thanks for the advice. Looking at the fully striped floor now. Getting ready to pull the sound deadning material that BB put down in the cockpit area. And then pull the convector covers on the curb side. I will be removing the one short convector next to the fridge as its not needed and shortens the cabinet Im planning for that area.

[Ernest Ekberg]

Michael, are you going all the way to the front cabinets in the drivers area?
If so, do you have the stair nose wood for the top of the entry steps?
That is where I always start the wood. Factory finish to factory finish always looks great.

[mbrund]

Originally Posted by Ernest Ekberg

Michael, are you going all the way to the front cabinets in the drivers area?
If so, do you have the stair nose wood for the top of the entry steps?
That is where I always start the wood. Factory finish to factory finish always looks great.

Yes, all the way till the floor tilts up before the pedals. Will carpet the pedal areal, and replace the steering column carpet.

I have oak bullnose that i will stain and finish to match the floor. I have a carpet,bull nose, not sure if I will use it or just standard bullnose at the pedals. I plan to bullnose the top of the stairs where the stairwell slide meets and then carpet the well.

Still sanding the floor where the marble was trying to get it as level as possible. Carpel tunnel from using the air chisel is killing me, so about 30 mins work then a break to wake the hands up.