Charging issue while driving

[LeRoy]

On our maiden trip with the rf18 I noticed that the house batteries were not being charged while driving (the house volts will slowly drop on both the dash and inverter panel), although it seems like the chassis batteries were fine. I thought maybe the isolator was bad so I used the aux switch to combine them. That doesn’t seem to help. Starting the generator and running it while driving kept the batteries charged. I just tested the isolator and it checks out okay. The aux switch and combiner solenoid are functioning properly also. I figured it was since you have to engage it when parked to keep the chassis batteries charged and that works correctly. So I am leaning towards an alternator issue. The dash gauge always reads 13.5 roughly with no fluctuations. Do you think that it is just not putting out enough current to keep up? Is there something else in the system to check? Thanks.

[isp2952]

Originally Posted by LeRoy

On our maiden trip with the rf18 I noticed that the house batteries were not being charged while driving (the house volts will slowly drop on both the dash and inverter panel), although it seems like the chassis batteries were fine. I thought maybe the isolator was bad so I used the aux switch to combine them. That doesn’t seem to help. Starting the generator and running it while driving kept the batteries charged. I just tested the isolator and it checks out okay. The aux switch and combiner solenoid are functioning properly also. I figured it was since you have to engage it when parked to keep the chassis batteries charged and that works correctly. So I am leaning towards an alternator issue. The dash gauge always reads 13.5 roughly with no fluctuations. Do you think that it is just not putting out enough current to keep up? Is there something else in the system to check? Thanks.

I find that when I am driving down the road and using the inverter that my voltage is around 13.5 to 13.9 routinely. That has been what it has been since I put the Samsung in and that has been 3 years. I thought it was fine and never questioned it. By the way, that is not the dash gauge readings, which can't give you that precise of a reading. I get those readings from a digital gauge I have plugged in and have used since the fridge change.

[LeRoy]

I pulled the alternator out. It spins freely. I was thinking maybe the belt could be slipping. It only has OTR on a tag no other model numbers. The only connections to it are ground, positive and a two conductor plug. The r and I terminals are not hooked to anything. Does anyone know what model this might be so I can look up more info?

[Harold,Cat&Sam]

What is the alternator putting out ?
Check th voltage at the alternator and the isolator .

Ours charged over 14 driving down the road with the inverter running our household refrigerator .

[LeRoy]

Here are some pics of it. I was guessing it was a Leece Neville, but the back doesn’t look like it.

[LeRoy]

It looks like a delco 21si so far. That is a 100 amp unit if so

[Trees]

Originally Posted by LeRoy

It looks like a delco 21si so far. That is a 100 amp unit if so

I they came, according to owners manual, with 160 amp.

[LeRoy]

I don’t have a charging circuit schematic, does any else? The wiring has been all hacked up. Four splices within 6 inches of the alternator. There are three wires in the loom. One labeled “tach” is chopped off. One labeled “ign to reg” goes to pin 1 of connector. One labeled “alt output” (I think) goes to pin two of the connector. I assume that the “ign to reg” comes from the key switch? Is the “alt output” the sense wire? What is the tach wire for?

[Trees]

Leroy, here is a condensed version along with cruise control info from WOG files section. https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...leShooting.pdf

[badandy]

That is a Chicom knockoff of a 22SI, so it's probably 160 amps if it still works.