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HVAC, Air Conditioners, Aqua Hot, Primus, Webasto, Chassis Heaters, Furnaces and Water Heaters Questions and information about the wide variety of Heating and Air Conditioning as well as Water Heater systems available are discussed here.

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  #1  
Old 11-09-2011
Wsufans Wsufans is offline
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Default Chassis Heating flow

When the engine is running I assume that the engine coolant pump pushes the coolant through the lines to the cabin heaters. Is the only pump in the circuit? Is there another pump that will circulate coolant after engine shutdown? Or can we continue to head the cabin until the coolant is no longer giving up heat to the cabin?
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Old 11-09-2011
DW SD DW SD is online now
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I think the electric pumps are used for two different coolant loops. I have two electric pumps. I think those electric pumps pretty much impeded flow unless they are turned on.
The coolant loops used for chassis heat and are in parallel vs. series.
My guess is the pumps are in place to add to the circulation as pressure is probably not great enough to circulate through the long loops with engine coolant pump alone.

I've seen a schematic on this board for the coolant loops for the PT.

Doug
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Old 11-09-2011
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gcyeaw gcyeaw is offline
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On my coach I installed a switch to enable the electric circulation pump, the chassis heater blowers and the sporlan valves so that I can make use of the remaining heat in the engine block. Normally when the key is turned off the electric pump and sporlan valves shut off.

The main reason I did this is because I installed an oil fired heater that warms the coolant (Proheat unit). I needed to enable the water circulation when using this heater. I have an FC, and the PT's may have two circulation pumps, at least I have seen two on some coaches. You will need the plumbing and electrical diagrams to figure out which circuits to energize.
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Old 11-09-2011
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curtsprenger curtsprenger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DW SD View Post
I think the electric pumps are used for two different coolant loops. I have two electric pumps. I think those electric pumps pretty much impeded flow unless they are turned on.
The coolant loops used for chassis heat and are in parallel vs. series.
My guess is the pumps are in place to add to the circulation as pressure is probably not great enough to circulate through the long loops with engine coolant pump alone.

I've seen a schematic on this board for the coolant loops for the PT.

Doug
Schematic attached.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Coolant Flow, heaters.pdf (175.6 KB, 323 views)
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  #5  
Old 11-09-2011
Wsufans Wsufans is offline
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Thanks. We are off to Seattle in the AM to meet our "new bird" and bring to her new home later next week.

It would be nice to bleed off the engine heat if we are dry camped so we don't have to turn on the propane units quite so quickly.

Once we get it home we will most likely change things out for something like the Aqua-Hot.

The drawing makes sense and should prove an aid to my learning curve.

I can also see where the summer/winter valve would come in to play.

We have arranged for a day of driver training for this Saturday. Hopefully that will help make the trip safer and more pleasant.

Wish us an uneventful trip back to Colorado. We have our fingers crossed both that the bird doesn't break a wing or the weather man doesn't throw us a curve.
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  #6  
Old 11-10-2011
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sfedeli sfedeli is offline
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Paul- the pumps are not really needed when you are driving. The DD engine seems to push enough water forward and through the system for heat. I rarely use the boost pumps and actually removed the one that was supposed to push coolant up to the front dash heater. That being said, you could leave the key in the "on" position after you park and the circulating pumps will continue to run. The fans will also stay on for the unit heaters throughout the coach. Once the key is off, everything shuts down.
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  #7  
Old 11-13-2011
Wsufans Wsufans is offline
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Well we are getting to know our coach as we are not in possession. The chassis heat worked well in the back of the coach but no heat to the defrost and front heat. Going to have some help to look at the propane system tomorrow. Gen set worked fine on two days ago but won't crank today. More learning tomorrow. Took driving lessons from RV Basic Training. Great stuff so hopefully we will be much safer on our drive home. Thanks for all your help and support.
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  #8  
Old 11-13-2011
DW SD DW SD is online now
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Paul,
there is a sporlan valve above the air step. That controls flow to the front heat / defrost. Mine has stuck before.

Take a look at that. There is also a bleeder in that neighborhood. It could be trapped air preventing flow. I believe the prior, if i were to guess.
Further, I believe the front heat rocker switch activates the front sporlan valve solenoid. You could replace the valve with a manual ball valve if you were desperate or buy a rebuild kit if you find something wrong with the diaphragm.

Doug
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Old 12-11-2011
ellmarko ellmarko is offline
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I, too, am trying to get the chassis heat working. The schematic provided is for a rear engine coach. Does anyone have one for and FC? I have hot water flowing to the rear bathroom, but nothing going forward from there. I'm wondering before I "destroy" the bathroom if there is a sporlan valve behind the sink cabinet?

Does anyone have a plumbing schematic (chassis heat) for an '82 FC?
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  #10  
Old 12-11-2011
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Run engine @ 1500 operating temp, thermostat for chassis heat set on max, rear circulation pump on, winter summer on winter, front heat on, should blow hot all around. Takes a while and needs engine speed to pump enough coolant to keep the heater cores charged, ain't happening @ idle. Like Gard I have a Pro Heat boiler, mine is in curb side front plumbed into supply and return lines behind headlight. I have heat in half hour from stone cold but Pro Heat has a pretty good pump and my rear circ. is a Pro Heat heat pump so my set up has more flow than as produced. Make sure you have good flow before condeming the valving.
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