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Full Timers Not everyone can be a full timer. This is the place to discuss questions, concerns, and other issues affecting full timers.

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  #1  
Old 04-14-2012
Dez_rider Dez_rider is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Mercer Island
Posts: 11
Default First voyage of the Millennium Falcon...........

Hi, all

Thought I would share my first experience with our new bird (a prior WOG member's bird from Ohio).

After a few weeks or so of fixing minor leaks and changing fluids, I got her ready to go to her new port as our second home a few days a week.

She drives beautifully and I could keep her cruising along on interstate 5 at 60mph, that is until we encountered a few hills that took her down to 50 or so. Not in a hurry, so NBD.

After getting her parked and staying in her the first few nights I found a few issues - the hot water only got luke warm and the refrigerator had a No Cold error going on. Barely warm showers at 5:30am are no fun, so had to figure these things out fast!

Turns out a dime sized 140 degree thermostat on the Atwood water heater had gone bad. I found an RV place that had one for $8 or so and change it out and now I had hot water! In fact, I found the water will stay hot enough to shower for 24 hours without even keeping the heater turned on (I forgot once). Nice.

Now the refer. I searched the web and found a service bulletin for the Norcold 3-way refrigerator that described how to reset the error code. Worth giving it a try. The service bulletin says that once you get this code, it turns off the heat sources until you turn the refrigerator off, but if it happens too many times, the error (and heat lock out) continues despite you turning it on and off until you go through a manual procedure to ground a pin on the circuit board on the back of the refer. I made a wire jumper, went outside and found the circuit board and grounded the appropriate pin (in the dark at 11pm of course). And just like that, now the refer began to get cool. It works wonderfully!

Next, I tried the cable TV from the park. Plugged in the cable on the bus to the cable on the park hook ups and got 20 stations or so. Just for grins, I hit the "up" switch on the flying saucer antenna, and rotated it to where I though the transmitters are to see what I could get. Hit the channel search on the 30" flat screen and *bam* 110 channels, most in HD. Antenna is staying up!. Very, very cool.

Now to figure out some other things. When I turn on the breaker for the kitchen power outlet, I hear a continuous hum from under the sink somewhere - can't be good. It's not the blender or water pump, so it seems to be coming from the ice maker which does not look like it has been used in a while. Leaving breaker off for now. In the process of rooting around on this, I found all the blender and food processor attachments in a drawer in the bedroom - looks like they have never been used. Happy discovery.

I'm not using propane, so I am depending on the two electric heaters to stay warm in the a.m. - the one in the bedroom is controlled by a toggle switch and it works great. The one in the bathroom is kind strange, though. It looks like there may have been a switch on it at one time, but now there is just a blank switch faceplate. I thought that maybe it was controlled by the suburban thermostat in the bathroom, but it seems to do nothing. The heater will run for 30-45 minutes and get the bathroom 90+ degrees and then it turns itself off. It's a bit too much, so I turn it on and off with the circuit breaker for now. I forgot about this once and found it running when it got home at the end of the day one time (the coach was nice and toasty on the cold day).... It's on the to do list.

Initially, I tried leaving the bus hooked up to park water (with the outside fill switch set to 'off'). A few days later, I noticed a little moisture from the carpet near the bed and investigated. Apparently the fill valve does not close 100%, because I found the water tank was filled 100% (it was mostly drained when I started) and was leaking from the overflow hose connection at the top of the tank. Solution: 1) put some silicone sealant on the overflow hose connection to stop any leaks when tank gets over full and 2) use the park water only to fill the tank once a week and run the water off the pump. Been just fine, with no water issues since.

I had a few other assorted things I've noticed, I don't think the tranny temp gauge works - I had a shop change a leaky tranny line, so I'm hoping it is just a loose or broken wire from the sending unit that they may have knocked loose.

The tachometer does not work, but I know that this is due to broken wires from the sending unit when the radiator was rebuilt by the P.O. (thankful for the rebuilt RAD)

Also, after putting on a new hose clamp on a Power Steering pump return line, I found that I did not totally fix a leak in my eaton Power steering pump - I now suspect that the issue is a top seal. Temporary solution is to keep a small tupperware container zip tied underneath to keep from coating everyone with drops of PS fluid when I drive. NBD, since it is just parked for now.

I really like some of the cool features I've discovered like being able to lock the door from the bedroom, playing with the search light and things like that. Overall, she is very comfortable to stay in and very livable.

Thus far, I am very, very happy with the Millennium Falcon. Kudos to the prior owner who clearly lavished copious TLC (and $ ) on her.

That's all for now, more reports later.

Jon
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Jon Rodriguez
Mercer Island, Washington
1982 FC35 SB "Millennium Falcon"
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  #2  
Old 04-14-2012
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maustin maustin is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Redmond
Posts: 233
Default

That hum/buzz from behind the ice machine is a contactor that pulls in when you have shore or generator power, and feeds the ice machine. When there is no shore or generator it goes to its normal position so you can run the ice machine with the redi line set up.

I hated that noise so I removed the contactor, and I gave the redi line away. Seems you had to feed it 160 amps og DC12 volt to get your 120 volts at 10 or so amps. I didn't need the ice that bad.
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Redmond, OR
EZ GOING
1982 FC33
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2012
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gcyeaw gcyeaw is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ridgewood
Posts: 8,874
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Jon,
The Lock the door from the bedtroom feature is nice, however before you reguarly use it see if the manual lock will push the plunger back so you can get out if there is a 12 volt power problem. Mine will not push the electric pin back when cycling the manual lock, so in a fire or other emergency we could be trapped in the bus.
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86 PT-36 Golden Memories
83FC35 SB $IXTEEN TON$ SOLD
78 FC 33 Happinest (Sold)
Ridgewood, New Jersey
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2012
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Buckeye Bird Buckeye Bird is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 2,371
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Jon,

Are those the only 2 electric heaters you have ? My '83 SB had 4. Bedroom, bathroom, kitchen on far left side of lower cabinet, and one under the couch near the floor behind the driver. They all had round knob thermostat switches on the front and were turned on by using the A/C switches above the driver on the left side.
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1994 BMC 37'
2012 Wrangler Unlimited
Lancaster, Ohio
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