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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 10-26-2018
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RVinCT RVinCT is offline
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Default Where are the fill points for the leveling jacks?

I know it's a dumb question, but I can't find them. Where are the fill points for the leveling jacks?

A related Q:. Is there any way to emergency retract the leveling jacks? My Quadra Manufacturing Big Foot Levelling System is somewhat flakey. I hit retract and sometimes it retracts, and sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it says All Up and they're not all up. Sometimes I need to cycle things a few times to get it to work correctly. I've noticed the master switch is also a bit strange. It doesn't want to go to the center off position reliably. You have to rock it slightly up to get it to turn off.

Another Q: is it necessary to only run manually in pairs as it says in the manual? George Morris told my wife they can be run individually. Any tricks or suggestions about using this system?

Do you use a base plate under the jack feet? How do you position it? The rams are supposed to be sprayed with silicone yearly. How do you safely get under there? Are HF 20 ton jacks with 12 ton stands going to be OK? Where do you position the jacks? Axle? Or are there Jack points?

I could probably pick the brains of the experts here for hours, but if there's anything you've learned that you wish someone had told you, feel free to pass it along, particularly if it's safety related.

Thanks.
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Old 10-26-2018
Joatha Joatha is offline
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My jacks are not the same as yours (my LX uses HWH) but I suspect they may be set up similarly. If not, disregard.

To fill - One of my front steps is removable and the reservoir is under that - its real easy to find. This seems to be fairly common on Birds so I bet yours is there.

Emergency retract - There are 4 valves for mine under the front step. If you unscrew them, it opens a bypass valve and allows the jacks to retract. I have had to do this twice so far. My rears retracted fairly easily on their own - I assume the springs were strong enough to pull them up easily. The fronts, though, were a bit more of a pain. I had to work a bit to get them up and stowed. What I did was air up the suspension, slide a block under the jacks and then drop the suspension. I had to repeat that process 2-3 times and place incrementally taller blocks to get it properly stowed.
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Old 10-26-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joatha View Post
My jacks are not the same as yours (my LX uses HWH) but I suspect they may be set up similarly. If not, disregard.

To fill - One of my front steps is removable and the reservoir is under that - its real easy to find. This seems to be fairly common on Birds so I bet yours is there.

Emergency retract - There are 4 valves for mine under the front step. If you unscrew them, it opens a bypass valve and allows the jacks to retract. I have had to do this twice so far. My rears retracted fairly easily on their own - I assume the springs were strong enough to pull them up easily. The fronts, though, were a bit more of a pain. I had to work a bit to get them up and stowed. What I did was air up the suspension, slide a block under the jacks and then drop the suspension. I had to repeat that process 2-3 times and place incrementally taller blocks to get it properly stowed.
Even if it's not the same, your procedure may come in handy. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 10-26-2018
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The switch might need replacing, they’re 3 position.
I use silicone dry lube every few months, the spray goes several feet, so I can get the lube on at least 2/3 of the ram. I don’t use pads under the feet.
The jacks are extended either auto or manual, I normally use the auto function, if I use manual l always try to extend 2 jacks at a time.
Yes, sometimes a jack fails to fully retract, just do a reset, and try again, that’s always worked for me.
If the system is still flaking, pull the panel and reseat the connector.
I assuming you’ve downloaded the manual.
Good luck
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Old 10-26-2018
Scott White Scott White is offline
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I think on the M380 the jacks have individual pumps with the reservoir are at each pump. Two of them are in the bays I think. Big Foot is different from HWH.
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Old 10-26-2018
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Default M380 Big Foot Leveling Jack System Answers

You’ll find this post to be interesting. Recommend you read the entire thread: https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...t=10734&page=3

Each corner has its own pump and reservoir. The rear reservoirs can be found side-by-side under the holding tanks on the aft wall curbside, behind the black covers. The front pumps and reservoirs can be found just behind the door step curbside, and opposite that for the drivers side. Use a paper straw as a dipstick to check levels and a turkey baster or large syringe to fill. Make sure you refer to the Big Foot manual. There’s a link to it on page 1 or 2 of the above mentioned thread.

I had many of the same issues you are having. Ended up replacing the panel and several of the sensors as well, as described in the above thread.

The jacks can be extended all 4 at once in Auto or individually in Manual. However retraction is done all at once regardless of mode, and I don’t know of a way to retract them individually or in pairs. IE - you can’t extend one in Manual, decide its extended too far and then decide to retract it a bit. I use Jack Pads only in rocky/rough areas like at Q in the desert. If on a concrete pad or smooth surface, pads aren’t needed (unless you’re on asphalt when it’s warm outside, and then I likely wouldn’t extend the jacks at all to avoid making an imprint). I will occasionally spray the extended Jack cylinders with silicone. However I never go under the coach without 20 ton jackstands in place. When I had my old panel, the emergency retract button would raise all 4 Jack’s no matter what. However the “ride up” can be a little rough. To put less stress on the jacks when retracting, you can air up the coach suspension before raising them. This takes the load off all 4 Jack’s and makes retraction easier.

Added: If using manual extension, one should use the jacks in pairs (fronts/rears or lefts/rights) as much as possible to avoid twisting of the frame.
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Last edited by NoGas; 10-27-2018 at 04:40 AM. Reason: Added reason to use jacks in pairs recommendation
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Old 10-26-2018
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I occasionally use Manual, my current location is an example: The ground in front is low, and the auto insisted on applying some pressure on the rear making the front have to go unnecessarily high. I dumped enough to get the rear jacks off the ground, then used the front two until level - I did, and have before, extend one slightly more than the other to compensate for slight side-to-sid level. Once level, I extended the rear until they just touched down for stability.


For all of the time I've owned this coach the only "up" sensor that has worked is the right front. All of the others are stuck in the up position. If the right front hits full retraction it will stop as "all up." I've learned to listen to the sound, and combined with knowing what jacks are the farthest extended I know whether to run the manual retract a bit longer so that all are truly up.
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  #8  
Old 10-27-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonB View Post
... For all of the time I've owned this coach the only "up" sensor that has worked is the right front. All of the others are stuck in the up position. If the right front hits full retraction it will stop as "all up." I've learned to listen to the sound...
Don - at the thread above, I describe replacing those sensors. They are about $30 each from BigFoot. After replacing them, all 4 of mine now work perfectly (for the first time also) and the ALL UP indication is reliably correct. They are mounted in a dirty location, so a periodic cleaning with contact spray might suffice. I think we’ve all become accustomed to listening for that jack change in pitch to indicate full up travel. Lastly - after raising the jacks but before moving the coach an inch, it’s ALWAYS a good idea to do a quick visual inspection to ensure all jacks are truly UP.

Below is a “before” changeout picture. Note the fluid, damp pad and dirty sensor.
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Old 10-27-2018
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I can’t add to the M380 dream team / gurus comments but I did buy these pads I’d recommend. I use them in lieu of wood blocks for an un level site and there isn’t sufficient throw from the Bigfoot’s to achieve level. . I thought about building ply wood set but the cost differential just didn’t make sense. Too busy lately. These are not compressible and very heavy duty but also flexible.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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  #10  
Old 10-27-2018
rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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The service foreman at HWH told me to never use silicone spray on the jacks as it tends to make a deposit that interferes with the seals. That was news to me as I used to use the spray. Now I don't. But he did say that you should cycle them a couple of times once a week. I guess that coats them with a film of oil. Well, I don't do that once a week, but now try to do it at least once more often than previously.
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