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PT & WB (Twin Axle Pusher Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your PT or WB model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it....list your PT Parts here too.

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Old 01-25-2011
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Default Need Alternator Direct Replacement Part #

Both my alternators on my '93 8V92 are shot, but after bypassing my non-functioning aux. battery solenoid I am able to finish my trip to PA using the coach's 120V generator and battery charger to keep 12V supplied to the engine and chassis.

After talking to Shane and others who know a whole lot more about this subject than me, my plan is to just replace the front (upper) one with a 200 amp or larger unit.

Shane says he is very happy with the self-exciting alternator he put on his bus, but since it is an older model he is not sure if it is a direct replacement for my coach and if the voltage regulator is built-in or external.

Since it is currently snowing outside (HELP--how did I get up here!) and I would prefer to wait and pull the bedroom engine access panel and old alternator until I have the replacement in hand, can anyone tell me what part #'s will fit directly in the same spot without any modifcations, and what kind of voltage regulator I will need? I will probably be attempting this myself and my most complicated project to date was changing the generator oil myself so I am going to need to keep this as simple as possible.

Also, any pro's or con's on various replacement alternators would be appreciated.
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'93 PT40WB
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Old 01-25-2011
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I would go with the more common 130amp Leece-neville,easy to find,any freightliner dealer has them in stock.
I just bought one,the price has gone up to $190,this is a new,not rebuilt unit.
You can put a 500 amp alternator on it,but its still driven by the same 2 belts.
The belts are the weak link.
YMMV.
Shane has one alternator,you have two.
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Old 01-25-2011
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When I replaced mine I did both with Leece Neville 160A units. General reference to these standard alternators is "triple-nickel" as they have 555 in the part number.
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Old 01-26-2011
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I installed a Leece Neville (Prestolite) 2800 JB alternator that puts out 160 amps max. What made this unit great is that it was designed for emergency equipment, so it puts out a full charge at idle rather than having to be spun up to turn on. As soon as the engine is running, the amps are pegged at 125 and the voltage hits around 14.2. The amps come down as the batteries get charged, but the volts stay up around 14.2. As I turn on lights and other accessories, the voltage will drop to 13.8 or 13.9. The Voltage regulator is a "14 volt regulator" with part number 102200.
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Old 01-26-2011
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Thanks for all the info. My plan for now is just to replace the front/upper alternator since it is much easier to get to now that I know how to remove the engine access panel in the bedroom floor.

Is 130 amps enough to run everything including the inverter and still put a good charge back in the batteries when traveling? Or should I go to a bigger unit (160-200 amps) or just replace both alternators?

Also, in a two alternator setup such as mine, does each alternator have it's own voltage regulator, or is there just one and if so, where is it located?
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Old 01-26-2011
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Jim,I typed 130Amps when i was thinking 160amps.
sorry!
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Old 01-26-2011
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Thanks for the correction. I'm still trying to figure out the voltage regulator setup on a two-alternator arrangement. Does each one have it's own voltage regulator, or is there one that controls both of them (and where do I find it?).
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Old 01-26-2011
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Each alternator has its own regulator. Most of them are integral to the alternator but I am not certain on your coach. They work by sensing the voltage and each one supplies part of the current. It is not co-ordinated by a master regulator, they just use the pricipals of electricity and share the load, not necessairaly evenly. It also shares the load three ways if the inverter/charger is working at the same time.

If the voltage starts to drop the alternator increases the current which brings the voltage up. Each one adjusts to its set voltage level. If one is set lower it won't work as hard until the load exceeds the other units capabilities. When one quits or its output drops off the other works harder.

Some of the alternators regulators have a remote-sensing terminal where a wire runs to the battery and senses the voltage there, compensating for losses in the connection. Others sense the voltage at the alternator itself.
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Last edited by gcyeaw; 01-26-2011 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 01-26-2011
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I can tell you what I just found out regarding our dual alternators on our 1988 PTWB if that helps.

They are each seperate systems. If one fails the idea is for the other to obviously take over. They are each connected to the same shunt located in the engine compartment.

The technician who just worked on the coach at W.W. Williams explained to me that if one fails it can also cause the other to fail as well if they are both connected together to the coach. The reason being if one has a short it will short the whole system and not just be isolated to that one alternator. If on the other hand the troubled alternator has an "open" cause for its failure, then the other connected alternator will take over.

He told me some of the newer models have an alternator 1 / 2 switch to change from #1 to #2 alternator. That way each is isolated and if one goes bad just flip the switch. I'm thinking about putting a switch in, but I need to find the right relay.
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Old 01-26-2011
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Think of it like a bicycle built for two, or three. Everybody is doing part of the work, but if one of you stops pushing on the pedals, or just pushes very little, the other one(s) end up working harder.
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