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Tool Tips Here you will finds tips on using old tools, as well as the latest in new tools that you can use on your 'Bird's projects.

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  #1  
Old 07-12-2009
bubblerboy64 bubblerboy64 is offline
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Default Drilling out screws

I had to admit this (being a dentist and all) but I've met my match. I am removing the trim along the side of the Bella Mia in order to make a paint repair. I've got four screws which I am trying to drill out will little success. I assume they may be stainless but regardless they are hard as diamonds and I am having little luck other then ruining drill bits. Help needed. Do I need carbide drills or what?
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Old 07-12-2009
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Drilling is always my last resort. I feel as though I am probably a goner by that point. I usually manage to break off the bit or the easy-out in the screw. Use lots of oil and a SHARP bit for drilling. The ones in my toolbox are probably all too dull.

Probably too late now, but I have found very useful a manual impact driver. Mounts various bits or sockets in it, it has a spring loaded deal in it. Smack it with a BFH and it unscrews it. Good for when a regular screwdriver cannot get a bite. The longitudinal pressure keeps the bit from stripping hte head. Another trick is to cut a new groove across the screwhead and use a standard screwdriver. Also, an old trick is to dimple one edge and unspin it with a punch. Works better for big bolts.

Sometimes, a dremel tool can just remove the head so the trim can be pulled, allowing various other grabbers on the shank.

May try to drive it in a bit first to "unstick" it. Heat is very helpful, but not near paint . If it is a rusty steel screw, knock it completly thru and rebuild the substrate with JB Weld.
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Old 07-12-2009
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Hi John- not just carbide- you'll need Cobalt bits and some tool cutting oil. Took my radiator louvers off once and had one helluva time getting two of the screws out. Finally resorted to cobalt bits and some oil on the tip of the drill. That worked very well.
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  #4  
Old 07-12-2009
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Heck-man has a bad job here,the screw goes through aluim,into steel,all kinds of room here for rust,corrosion and bad words.
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  #5  
Old 07-12-2009
bubblerboy64 bubblerboy64 is offline
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Thanks all, after about an hour a screw I got that little SOB's out (and I don't mean what we usually mean on the forum by SOB) Basically carbide dremel tools. Thank goodness most of them came out. Actually my new compressor and the 3/4 drill turned most of them out. Problem of course was the couple that I stripped the heads on. Most of the screw were really tight but I pulled my car up along side the bus. Stood on the running boards leaned back against the truck and with all the force I could apply inward to the screw most of them turned out. Of course if they didn't the head was stripped. I think I was using some ingenuity at this. I don't know if a hammer blow would have been any help, I did hammer on the handle of a screw driver before using the air drill in reverse. Thank God I didn't have more of them to do.

It's like all other projects some know how and the right tools. I be learning. The good news is two: 1) Only one place bad along the entire side of the bus. 2) there was a little more trouble there then what I thought so it's very good I got the trim off. I found finishing up to the trim impossible and when I did get into it my repair would have been short lived without removing it. Good they don't pay me by the hour on this stuff.

I think I'll do some prep work and see if one of the local body shops will shoot it for me. After all of this trouble I want it pretty close to right.
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Old 07-12-2009
Don Meyer Don Meyer is offline
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When I removed the trim, I had a screw driver that I had pounded on for another project. The metal part of the screw driver was all the out to the back of the handle. So when I gave it a good wack, it was metal to metal. A few good hits on each screw and all came loose but 3. Those I just drilled off the head of the screw. When I did the grinding for the body work I just ground the remainder of the screw flat. When I reinstalled the trim, I just drilled new holes for the new stainless screws. Worked like a charm.

Caution...do NOT use Home Depot stainless screws. They are junk a break off or strip out easily. Go to a hardware store and get GOOD hardware.
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  #7  
Old 07-12-2009
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Thanks Don, That's pretty much what I figured I'd do since the rubber molding covers the screw holes. I have my fax on at the office if you care to send the information on the paint.
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Old 07-12-2009
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Rob Robinson Rob Robinson is offline
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John when it comes to your paint get it 'read' by the paint photo machine. You won't be sorry.
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  #9  
Old 07-12-2009
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93481

This thing from Horrible Freight works good. It imparts torque when you smack it.
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  #10  
Old 07-12-2009
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Ed Wimberley Ed Wimberley is offline
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John
Try using Left hand twist bits they rotate counterclockwise so that when applying force sometimes this will help removal of stubborn fasteners,by turning in same direction as if being turned with screwdriver.
Lowes sells a small kit for this purpose about $10.
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