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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #21  
Old 03-19-2020
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Captain Fred Captain Fred is offline
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A fast tick, tick,tick noise when trying to start is a sign of low voltage @ the starter. I would check cables & connections first. both Pos and ground.
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Fred Penney
Boston, Massachusetts
1987FC35SB "Lobster Inn"
2015 Jeep Wrangler Toad
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  #22  
Old 03-19-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Fred View Post
A fast tick, tick,tick noise when trying to start is a sign of low voltage @ the starter. I would check cables & connections first. both Pos and ground.
What Fred said and especially anything you touched when changing the batteries you talked about. If everything worked ok before doing that, that is your most likely issue.
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Last edited by isp2952; 03-19-2020 at 04:03 PM.
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  #23  
Old 03-19-2020
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Thanks, folks. I already checked everything in the battery compartment. It’s all clean and tight. I’ll try have a look at the starter connections when I stop tonight. Much appreciated.
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Trent S.
Victoria, British Columbia
1984 FC35RB
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  #24  
Old 03-19-2020
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My '82 had a very similar problem. Newly rebuilt alternator, new batteries, clean battery cables. I never did solve it

Voltmeter would run at 12.1V. Telma was very weak. Always started though but I could tell the 12V system was weak. Since the alternator is grounded through the engine, maybe a ground strap to the block from the frame would be worth checking.

It has to be something simple like that. Alternator turns and should charge at 14V... power goes to batteries.... not much in between.

Having a 12V system running at 14V with engine running is essential for the proper charging and operation, not to mention avoiding overloaded amperage on circuits due to low voltage.

You will figure it out! Solve my 14-year mystery.
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Jeff Kunzelman
Oakville, Manitoba, Canada
1988 FC-35SB 300HP/ZF (2016-current)
1978 GMC Royale 26' (2015-2016)
1982 FC-33SB 250HP (2007-2009)
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  #25  
Old 03-19-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kunzelj View Post
My '82 had a very similar problem. Newly rebuilt alternator, new batteries, clean battery cables. I never did solve it

Voltmeter would run at 12.1V. Telma was very weak. Always started though but I could tell the 12V system was weak. Since the alternator is grounded through the engine, maybe a ground strap to the block from the frame would be worth checking.

It has to be something simple like that. Alternator turns and should charge at 14V... power goes to batteries.... not much in between.

Having a 12V system running at 14V with engine running is essential for the proper charging and operation, not to mention avoiding overloaded amperage on circuits due to low voltage.

You will figure it out! Solve my 14-year mystery.
I’ll double down on corroded cables if connections are tight. In both of your cases

I’ve seen some crazy cable issues... they corrode on the inside sometimes, causing excessive resistance. Effectively making the cables “smaller” gauge, poor quality material type...
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-Dennis (direct email please! dennis@wanderlodgeowner.com)
Hesperia, California

1987 FC31 “A Rare Bird”
(300HP 3208TA/ZF)

1983 FC35SB
(225HP 3208T/MT643/Jacobs Retarder/Cruisair

Towables:
2007 Grand Cherokee CRD
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  #26  
Old 03-19-2020
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lucaswillemse lucaswillemse is offline
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Trent, I would check the relay that is energized by the key and connects 12v to the starter solonoid on the starter. The voltage from this circuit is noted for being low. I have experienced voltage sensitivity with these relays. This relay on our FC was mounted on the chassis rail near the starter. The fact that the unit starts after you get a higher voltage seems to eliminate battery cables etc. Here is a source and picture of the relay; https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...onoid&_sacat=0
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Lucas Willemse
Paramount, CA
1995 WB 42
1980 FC Sold
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  #27  
Old 03-19-2020
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Thanks, Lucas. We’ve stopped in Canyonville, OR for the night and I plugged the bus in to 50A service. With the charger on the batteries, it fired up instantly. Although the batteries haven’t settled, they are 13.27v on the new volt meter. I’m going to need to get busy with a multimeter to track voltages across that solenoid. Thanks for the detailed description.
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Trent S.
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1984 FC35RB
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  #28  
Old 03-19-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucaswillemse View Post
Trent, I would check the relay that is energized by the key and connects 12v to the starter solonoid on the starter. The voltage from this circuit is noted for being low. I have experienced voltage sensitivity with these relays. This relay on our FC was mounted on the chassis rail near the starter. The fact that the unit starts after you get a higher voltage seems to eliminate battery cables etc. Here is a source and picture of the relay; https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...onoid&_sacat=0
This is a specific FC answer that makes sense. These myriad overlaid simplistic systems can be convoluted to diagnose. I love having specific pinpoints to check when the inevitable happens.
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-Dennis (direct email please! dennis@wanderlodgeowner.com)
Hesperia, California

1987 FC31 “A Rare Bird”
(300HP 3208TA/ZF)

1983 FC35SB
(225HP 3208T/MT643/Jacobs Retarder/Cruisair

Towables:
2007 Grand Cherokee CRD
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  #29  
Old 03-19-2020
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I re-read everything, are you sure one of the "new" batteries isn't bad? A dead cell?
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  #30  
Old 03-19-2020
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WanderScott WanderScott is offline
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Hi Crit, I’ll check that too. Good point. As Dennis said, these very specific suggestions are great. Thanks, gents.
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Trent S.
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1984 FC35RB
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