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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 04-04-2020
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cm_shannon cm_shannon is offline
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Default Roof Leak

Now that it has warmed up a bit here in Indiana it's time to address my roof issues.

There is a leak somewhere in the kitchen area above the sink. Water will drip out from under the bottom cover of the cabinet above the sink. I suspect it is either coming from the fridge vent, exhaust vent or some of the loose screws on the diamond plate. When I bought this bus 18 months ago I noticed A LOT of the outer screws were quite loose that held the diamond plate to the roof. I tried to tighten them but there are a few that just wont tighten down. PO had tried larger screws and bolts, as well as, a dab of silicone on the heads of the screws.

Ideally, I would like to remove everything off of the roof including the goat rails. I would like to repaint the roof. The area over the cab and the sides between the goat rails and drip edge are looking pretty rough. I have a few sections of the rails that will need to be rebuilt due to rust and then powder coat them all.

Once everything is off, repainted and resealed I need to address the diamond plate. I have considered using Rivnuts along the outer edges to help hold down the outer portion of the DP but not sure that is feasible given that many screws go into the ribs. I am also considering cutting out the middle third of the DP (the width of the AC units) to help relieve the stress on the outer edges of the DP. Also considering removing the DP all together.

Has anyone been able to successfully use Rivnuts/Nutserts to hold down the outer edges of the DP? What method did you use to remove DP from roof? What paint for roof? Any trouble getting goat rails off?

This is a big job but it needs to happen! Sorry for the long winded post!
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Craig & Michelle Shannon
Huntertown, IN
1982 FC 35 SB
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  #2  
Old 04-04-2020
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badandy badandy is offline
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Default

I was going to do rivnuts, but the problem is that when the factory drilled and screwed the diamondplate down they didn't bend the plate down first, they used the screws the draw it down. So the holes that are there now out by the edges aren't even close to perpendicular to the steel roof. If I get to redo the roof I'll put two walkways down the sides like the later ones have and just plug all those old holes.

In the meantime I replaced every screw in the diamondplate and the goat rails with a slightly larger lag screw. But first I squirted sika flex 715 in the hole to seal the bolts. I mean I overdid it. In a couple of holes on the goat rails I had to go up even one more size larger on the screws to get them to hold.

Also, on mine anyways, there was ZERO sealant of any kind from the factory around the riveted-on riser part of the "chimney" that the lid fastens to. There was a good 1/8" gap! So when it would rain it allowed the water to wash right down into the ceiling. Every single time!

I also have had a problem with the screws that hold the awnings on back out from driving. The same happens to the drip rails over time. Both can leak water into the walls.
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  #3  
Old 04-04-2020
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Gatorgrl Gatorgrl is offline
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Default

I can tell you from our bus, we had a mysterious leak in the bathroom down the sink wall. We traced it to the Fantastic vent that was in the bathroom, only caught it because I changed it out with a Fantastic fan and when we removed the vent, we saw ZERO sealant under the vent. It was just screwed to the top of the bus. sure someone tried to put silicone all over the top of the flange, but failed to put it on the bottom. We rectified the situation when we installed the fan and the leak mysteriously went away.......
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Dana (The Wanderer, Builder, Restorer)
Tony (The Grumpy Mechanic)

Lee County, Florida

1983 FC35 3208T "Gen X Express"
1991 Toyota 4Runner TOAD or
1980 Camaro TOAD

danahcks@aol.com
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2020
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1984Lodge 1984Lodge is offline
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This is also on my to do list.. have noticed some water intrusion on mine.. I did my awning screw the other day. Replacing the screws with stainless screws. Instead of going with larger screws I used a trick I often use for loose tapcons at work. I cut a small piece of solid copper wire and stick it down in the hole next to the screw. The screw tightens right up and bites really good into the copper wire. You add a dab of sealant to it and its like new. I have not tried this yet on the diamond plate. I think I am having leaks from that or the goat rails. I really want to raise the goat rails up a bit. My bird sits next to the house and its partly under an oak tree and the leaves get stuck under the goat rails. I figure if I can hold the goat rail up about a 1/2" or so then it would allow the leaves to pass under the goat rails and not sit on the roof. Its also a pain to blow them off, because they get stuck under the goat rails. Love to have it under cover, but neighborhood will not allow a structure of that size on my property.. We are looking now for a place where we can store and eventually have a building to cover the bird.
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Jeff LoGiudice
1984LodgeJeff@gmail.com
Temple Terrace, Florida
1984 Bluebird PT40
#F063411 6V92TA & MT654CR
& 1986 MCI 102A3
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  #5  
Old 04-04-2020
diesel pat diesel pat is offline
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Location: Brooksville
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Default Fantastic fan

Hi Dana, wondering what type of sealant you used when
you installed the new Fan,mine shows signs of leaking
and getting ready to replace it.
Thanks ,
Pat.
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Brooksville, florida
1995 BMC 37
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  #6  
Old 04-04-2020
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Gatorgrl Gatorgrl is offline
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We used a self leveling RV sealant and glued the fan to the roof and then used more of it on the outside around the flange and bit holes. Just make sure you get complete coverage for a good seal.
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Dana (The Wanderer, Builder, Restorer)
Tony (The Grumpy Mechanic)

Lee County, Florida

1983 FC35 3208T "Gen X Express"
1991 Toyota 4Runner TOAD or
1980 Camaro TOAD

danahcks@aol.com
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  #7  
Old 04-04-2020
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Heres a tip for getting the old sealer off the roof and between the roof and the vents.
I use a Fein tool,or a multi purpose tool with a scraper blade in it to remove the goo.
Slip the blade under the roof vent and it will cut the sealant right out.
(remove the screws first).


Paint,several of the guys have repainted with white polyurathane,roll it on and they have been doing 3 coats,the middle coat they put the magic ceramic beads in for insulation.
Paint inside the goat rails with white,or your choice of color.
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2000 LXI 43
Bainbridge,Ga.
Port St Joe Fl.
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  #8  
Old 04-04-2020
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cm_shannon cm_shannon is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Huntertown
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Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1984Lodge View Post
This is also on my to do list.. have noticed some water intrusion on mine.. I did my awning screw the other day. Replacing the screws with stainless screws. Instead of going with larger screws I used a trick I often use for loose tapcons at work. I cut a small piece of solid copper wire and stick it down in the hole next to the screw. The screw tightens right up and bites really good into the copper wire. You add a dab of sealant to it and its like new. I have not tried this yet on the diamond plate. I think I am having leaks from that or the goat rails. I really want to raise the goat rails up a bit. My bird sits next to the house and its partly under an oak tree and the leaves get stuck under the goat rails. I figure if I can hold the goat rail up about a 1/2" or so then it would allow the leaves to pass under the goat rails and not sit on the roof. Its also a pain to blow them off, because they get stuck under the goat rails. Love to have it under cover, but neighborhood will not allow a structure of that size on my property.. We are looking now for a place where we can store and eventually have a building to cover the bird.
I resealed my main awning last year. First time we used the bus it poured down rain. I got almost as wet being under the awning as I would have if it wasn't out. The seal between the awning cover and the bus was in rough shape. I removed and cleaned it up. Installed Nutserts, used a stip of butyl tape, installed machine screws with blue loctite and finished the top edge with no-sag dicor-type caulk. No leaks and haven't had to re-tighten any of the screws.
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Huntertown, IN
1982 FC 35 SB
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  #9  
Old 04-04-2020
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cm_shannon cm_shannon is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Huntertown
Posts: 122
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
Heres a tip for getting the old sealer off the roof and between the roof and the vents.
I use a Fein tool,or a multi purpose tool with a scraper blade in it to remove the goo.
Slip the blade under the roof vent and it will cut the sealant right out.
(remove the screws first).


Paint,several of the guys have repainted with white polyurathane,roll it on and they have been doing 3 coats,the middle coat they put the magic ceramic beads in for insulation.
Paint inside the goat rails with white,or your choice of color.
Can the polyurethane be tinted to color of coach? Can you provide more info on the magic ceramic beads?
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Craig & Michelle Shannon
Huntertown, IN
1982 FC 35 SB
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  #10  
Old 04-04-2020
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cm_shannon View Post
Can the polyurethane be tinted to color of coach? Can you provide more info on the magic ceramic beads?
Sure the pain can be any color,but white is cooler,something we always think about in the south.
Google ceramic beads,NASA.
Lots of info,alien technology i think.
Lots of people don't believe in them (ceramic beads) but i have done some testing with them and they do work.
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2000 LXI 43
Bainbridge,Ga.
Port St Joe Fl.
www.buybyebluebird.com

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