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Caterpillar 3208 Solutions This sub-forum is hosted by Mike Hohnstein who has been at this kind of thing for 50+ years now, guess I'm addicted. The saga has been all about progressively larger shop space since then. Honestly, never wanted to get into the CAT 3208's that were originally considered to be a throwaway engine but that's all that works in a FC in my world. Same thing with my Ford toter, that came with a NA, too much effort to hang in a 6, so been at it with the CAT V-8 for 20 years now. In reality you can get excellent life out of a CAT 3208 if it's built correctly. Post your questions about the CAT 3208 engines here and Mike will try to help you out.

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  #61  
Old 08-31-2016
dmurdock's Avatar
dmurdock dmurdock is offline
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Location: Cedar Park
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwinter1946 View Post
Just for info purposes I use #7 the Super Tech Outboard 2-cycle TC-W3 engine oil however I mix it at 100 to 1 versus the 200 to 1 used in the test. Not sure it is necessary but I feel better using it and no additional smoke observed. The fuel filter bowls will show a blue color however.

Same here plus a dose of Pri-d ..
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  #62  
Old 09-26-2016
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Rich Johnson Rich Johnson is offline
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Default Up and running

We're up and running. The 3208 seems to be acting well - as it did
before the problem happened.

Well I have to admit, it's been an interesting journey.

Overall, I found the governor portion to be quite robust and strong. The
proverbial weak link is located within the large v8 looking fuel
metering portion of the injection pump section. Rather than a
rotational rack metering system, with gears like the Bosch,
Perkins, GM and others, the Cat 3208 design uses metering slip rings that
ride directly upon the plunger assemblies. This design, while simple,
and worthy, is somewhat susceptible to varnishing, from the use of
old fuel.

The fix was to remove the square top plate covering the injection
plungers, drain the remaing fuel, then liberally spray with PB
Blaster. Especially spray the areas just below the 8 springs
covering each of the 8 plungers. Then wait. I had to wait three
days for the spray to work. Holding the racks, gently work the
system until it is free. Loosen all 8 injector line nuts at the
injectors to prevent starting the engine. Rotate the engine with
starter while moving the racks. If rack sticks again, re-apply
PB Blaster and wait again. Another day and the rack was totally
free in all engine rotational positions.

Refill the pump body with fresh diesel fuel mixed with a
lubricating additive. I used Walmart 2 cycle oil. About 4 table
spoons worked for me. Reassemble the top, tighten the 8 injector
nuts and try starting the engine.

Prevention. Use only fresh fuel in the 3208. If you notice a time
lag between the time the shut off solenoid is de=energized and the
time the engine shuts down, beware. This means the racks are
probably starting to get sticky with varnish. Get fresh fuel. Use
additives such as burn enhancers, stabil fuel stabilizers, and
lubrication such as 2 cycle oil.

In my case, I replaced all fuel lines, filters and strainers and am using a new fuel tank, everything that was in contact with the old fuel was replaced to be sure the varnish was completely removed from the system.

The usual caveat applies - anything you do or add is at your own
discretion, and at your own risk. I offer this experience only
for educational purposes.
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  #63  
Old 09-26-2016
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Mike Hohnstein Mike Hohnstein is offline
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Your 'experience' is over looking the likely upset of CALIBRATION of the pumps, that could well be disturbed by the extraordinary loads placed on the rack assembly in your attempts to free the rings.
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  #64  
Old 10-10-2016
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Rich Johnson Rich Johnson is offline
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Default reply to #2

Finally got a chance to test my brainchild flapper idea. Yep, Treebob, you were right, the engine just kept chugging along. This is even with the crankcase recycle fitting plugged. Oh well, back to the drawing board.
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  #65  
Old 10-10-2016
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Rich Johnson Rich Johnson is offline
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Default reply to #63

Yep Bob a valid point. I tried my best to delicately work the racks with light finger movement and lots of PB Blaster over three days. After looking at buying a complete new engine, then a rebuilt injector, I'm happy with what I've got. At least I know I could limp out of a similar situation. So far it seems to start right up, and idle, then do 2k OK.

If anything, I've learned enough about the 3208 injector to be able to eliminate the many questions and wrong paths taken in this project. Installing a new governor shield is something I'd rather not have to redo; especially when it was not necessary.
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