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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #61  
Old 08-10-2017
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isp2952 isp2952 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technomage99 View Post
Yesterday I was catching up with my neighbor Joe who took his Tiffin Phaeton to Fl in March by way of Indiana for a Dometic fridge "rework".
Apparently there is a shop in Indiana near Elkhart that is run by Amish folk who do this work. From what he told me they remove all (or a lot of ) the
hardware in back AND replace the hydrogen gas with helium and whatever else we dunno, but it still functions as an absorption cycle fridge. Net result his fridge cools better than ever and the price was a better deal than others.
The "others" wanted $4500 (and up) to replace the unit with something else + probably cabinet work AND his big picture window windshield would have to be removed and reinstalled to do the fridge swap.

Does that sound familiar?
Maybe you need to read more WOG posts. Leon, has been talked about a thousand times on this forum. He does the best and fairest RV fridge work there is. He is posted on the WOG Repair and Service Map https://fusiontables.googleuserconte...hml=GEOCODABLE The green pin in northern Indiana.
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  #62  
Old 08-12-2017
BBERIC35 BBERIC35 is offline
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I've made good progress on removing the shelf and other structure from the top of the fridge cabinet. Got some questions:

1. It looks like I've got 72" vertical clearance at the front of the cabinet but only 69" at the back due to curvature of the roof. Samsung measures 70" high. I was hoping not to have to build a lower elevation floor like Van did, but maybe there isn't another choice. Wondering if I took wheels off the bottom it might clear. Anybody tried this?

2. Noticed in the pictures that Van posted, it looks like he left the insulating sheets in on both sides. Is that right?

3. Not much discussion on WOG about how people have anchored the Samsung in the cabinet to keep it from coming out. Pretty easy to do if you can tap sheet metal screws into the Samsung box, but since I don't know where refrigerant lines are, I'm concerned I could damage one and cause a leak.

Appreciate all thoughts and comments.
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  #63  
Old 08-12-2017
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Mallie Lennon Mallie Lennon is offline
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Eric, I don't think you will gain enough to be worth while by removing the roller. We did sim up in rear enough to be off of the rollers, and screwed front legs up to level.
I would be very careful drill screws into the cabinet. We added two brackets to the rear of ours, screwing into the rear 1/4' of the cabinet. We anchored ours with screws through the base plate in the rear. We also shimmed the top sides tight.

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Top rear angle brackets rest against plywood and are attached with screws.

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Side shims each side near front.

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  #64  
Old 08-12-2017
Jim Brookshire Jim Brookshire is offline
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Eric on the LXI I used fabricated brackets that used the fasteners at the top door hinges and are screwed into the side of the opening. No fasteners at the bottom, just levelers down taking load. On the M380 I made pockets that the front levelers sat in. The pockets were screwed to the floor. Both methods seem to work.
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  #65  
Old 08-13-2017
BBERIC35 BBERIC35 is offline
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Thanks for info Mallie and Jim. I took a look at the Samsung today and I would only get about ¼" clearance if I removed rollers so not worth it. Removed Samsung doors and hinges to get it ready for install. Reversed leveling jacks per Randy's suggestion so they will be effective on edge of new floor. I got the back wall off today to provide clearance at back of cabinet so fridge gets adequate cooling. Started working on taking up the old floor per Van's plan.
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  #66  
Old 08-13-2017
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Eric does yours have a raised box at the top rear? On mine that was the highest point. But some have reposted the box is not still there. Just curious.
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  #67  
Old 08-13-2017
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Top of the fridge is flat with no box. I've seen pics of some that have a top box. Don't know why the change.
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  #68  
Old 09-10-2017
BBERIC35 BBERIC35 is offline
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Almost done with new fridge installation. Pretty much followed the Van plan with a few small twists. Foundation framing slightly different. Used pressure treated ¾" plywood for floor and fabricated an access hatch to the outside. Used shims at the base to center the Samsung and keep it from moving from side to side. Lip on kick board in combination with panel on top of fridge will keep it from coming out of the hole or tipping in any direction. Kick board in picture is temporary while I wait on new grate hardware. This combination allowed me to secure the fridge without drilling any screws into the sheet metal. New Samsung is a great upgrade from the old Dumbmetic! So glad I listened to the wise WOG advice. Still need to add trim pieces to make it pretty. Guys at Texas RV Supply hauled the Samsung shell into the coach and put it in the hole for $115. Saved a lot of money (and my back) by doing the demolition and mods myself while getting someone else to do the heavy lifting.
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  #69  
Old 09-10-2017
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Nice install Eric, I installed a vent in the toe kick for air circulation to the heater, I don't know if it's necessary..
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  #70  
Old 09-10-2017
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Eric, it looks so good you could probably get more work!!!
I like the Black.
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