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  #11  
Old 10-04-2009
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DonB DonB is offline
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I turn the key on, and Joy watches the gauge (or I do if I'm done with windshield and such). When the needle just touches the F I go to the nozzle and drop it to the slowest speed to finish up. Not absolutely perfect, but the most you splash are a few drops.
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  #12  
Old 10-04-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandLiz View Post
I like the cash price and it is easier to get into and out of the truck islands.

Regards.
Liz
My combination of the 'Bird and enclosed trailer is 62 feet and I have had very few of the RV islands that I couldn't get in and out of and the cash price is also available at the RV island with a credit card.
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  #13  
Old 10-04-2009
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I can't afford fuel~
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  #14  
Old 10-04-2009
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In my experience first with a 1982 FC35 and now with a 1985 PT40 I have never had a fuel burp or splash. I am however very careful in centering the fuel flow down the center of the coach fuel fill pipe so that it does not cause foaming of the fuel. I have been able to fill the tanks up to where I can see the fuel at full fuel flow. Then I am careful in filling the tank at a reduced fuel flow until I fill the tank. Maybe both my tanks were different but I doubt it. I believe this method works and before you take other more drastic measures you might try it. Means you have to carefully watch the fill all of the time but its worth it.
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  #15  
Old 10-04-2009
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Will ad vent tubes when I drop the tank, probably sooner than later. In the mean time I set truck nozzle to the low speed and by the time the windows and mirrors are clean it's pretty close to full and no puddles. Don't care if the truckers like me in their 'space' or not. However, I stay away from busy fuel stops, and don't mind if I pay a few cents more than the 'price leader' at a intersection. I find that Petro is the least offensive.
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  #16  
Old 10-04-2009
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I do what Curt does. My first fill up was... well lets say... an adventure. The terry towel works very well! I try to avoid the Big Boy nozzles too.
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  #17  
Old 10-04-2009
Stephen Stephen is offline
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The first time I fueled up was shortly after I bought our coach
It had half a tank when I bought it and our first voyage out to British Columbia, I stopped in port huron Michigan to fuel up.
Now the fuel pump guy refused to let me pump my own and ignored any suggestions. He said he was a professional and didn't need advice he siad he had filled up thousands of these things
I could not leave the area. I had to stay and watch the action. So I stood a safe distance away and waited.
Did not take long
The old bird gurgled once and burped or sort of farted.
The Professional screamed dropped the nozzle which was locked open.
I walked over shut off the pump and mentioned that a true professional does not stand in the line of fire.
I paid for my fuel and quickly left the scene
My wife wanted to know what the commotion was and why was I pulling into another fuel stop.
I got 40.00 dollars worth 34.00 in the tank and 4.00 on the ground and a 2.00 burp on the professional fuel attendant.
Boy does 2.00 worth of diesel go along way.
And the adventure was just beginning
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  #18  
Old 10-05-2009
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Oh, Stephen,
That was a great story!!! We are ROTFLMHO!!!!!


Thanks,
Jack and Liz
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  #19  
Old 10-05-2009
adamssam adamssam is offline
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Found this artical at the vintagebird site by Jeff Miller:

Fuel Filler Splashback Fix This fix applies to a common problem on most all of our birds: filling the tank (especially from a high-volume pump) causes it to pressurize, and when the nozzle shuts off you get a large amount of fuel spraying back out of the fill tube. The reason is simple, the "venturi effect" from the fuel spraying down the fill pipe pulls air down with it, pressurizing the tank. Diesel fuel having a tendency to foam, you have a layer of pressurized foam at the top of the tank. When the air-pump (venturi effect) stops, the pressure must equalize with the outside world, and out comes your pressurized foam. The best method would be to add a large (5/8 will work) tube from the top of your tank to re-enter the filler neck about 3" below the top of the f iller neck: an equalizing tube. The vent/equalizing tube will prevent pressurization in the fuel tank. That requires some welding work which is only feasible if you can either remove the neck or keep the neck filled with CO2 and know how to do it. There is a second best method which I have used very sucessfully in an FC, it might need modification for pushers as it needs to overflow to the ground: On an FC, remove the bedroom floor carpet enough to find the access plate for the fuel tank sending unit (about 4' forward of the rear wall in the center of the floor). Remove the access plate. Now remove one of the spare ports in the top of the tank (arranged around the sending unit) and install a brass elbow, 1/2" NPT (I think) to 5/8" Parker Push-Lock tubing (approved for diesel fuel, rubber with a cloth protective braid, available at truck parts supplier and probably NAPA). Run the tubing up the filler neck to the top (difficult, but can be fished from behind the coach) and wire-tie it to the neck. At the top, allow it to bed downward, leave about 4"-6" of drop and secure with wire-ties inside the coach body. If you wish to run it all of the way to the bottom of the tank (at the outlet end possibly in a pusher), you will want to install a vacuum breaker at the top to avoid siphoning fuel out when topped-up (I went with the 4" drop). I have been able to fill my coach with flyleaf (60gpm) pumps at full lock, they snap off when full with only a few drips from the new overflow tube, and my toad (and shoes) remain clean and dry. Your mileage may vary. This might not comply with all of the EPA or DOT codes, but neither (probably) does spraying fuel all over the ramp each time you fuel.
I picked up the splashback fix page that BB handed out after RIV, and (incorrect dimension notwithstanding) it will not work in either of our FCs. This fix has saved me many a trip with oil-dry at truck stops this past year, I wish I had thought of it years sooner. For your pusher, you can probably get to both ends of your filler neck, and simply un-screw it from the tank, and add an elbow near the top of the tube for the top-end of the new vent/equalization line, the correct way to do it (and standard design for fuel tank filler necks iin cars and trucks). I haven't had the opportunity to add one to a PT yet and see what is involved, but would love your feedback on this possibility. The new M380 has a proper equalization tube from the tank to the filler neck. - Jeff Miller
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  #20  
Old 10-05-2009
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After taking a few diesel baths I started watching the situation and came up with this for a solution. When filling your tank the diesel travels down the fuel spout into your tank, after a while fuel is flowing quick and the the air can not escape. The fuel blocks the air escape this what causes your tank to burp. I came up with this gizmo, I took a piece to chain length fence top rail pipe 1.5" dia. X 20" long. I drilled a few holes in it to help the air flow. I stick it in my fuel tank, it passes beyound the end of the fuel spout. The diesel pump nozzle is inserted into the pipe, fuel flows through the pipe & air escapes on the outside of the pipe inside the fuel spout. Since using I have never taken a diesel bath, but once I forgot to use it, guess what I took a bath. The drilled holes go into your tank first. I'll bring a few with me to RATS.
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