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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #11  
Old 12-04-2019
DW SD DW SD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badandy View Post
The right way to do it is to install a check valve and a circulation pump along with the return line. The circulation pump will move water around in a circle through the water heater, out to the fixtures, and then right back to the inlet of the water heater. This way no warm/hot water ever makes it back to the tank. The hardest part is usually running that water line back to the tank, so just put a pump and check valve in there and call it good.
Hey Andy,
I get that and agree and have a motion-activated recirc pump and line in my house - I believe that is the optimized solution. Still, adding another pump also has downside of increased complexity (and cost). I admit to being lazy and frugal.

And most of the returned-to-the-tank water is not hot. It is cold, which is why it is being returned to the tank in the first place. I set my timer relay for 20 to 30 seconds (can't remember) after an iteration or two, which allows hot water at tap, but I doubt much hot is returning to the tank (I've got 20' between tap and tank).
Hope this doesn't feel like a pi$$ing match or that I'm defensive or even argumentative.

I was trying to be funny with my prior message as hopefully came across.

Cheers,

Doug
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  #12  
Old 12-04-2019
badandy badandy is online now
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A 12v circ pump would use very little power (it's a small pump) compared to one of the big ones like what your main pump is.

I am being argumentative, but not maliciously
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  #13  
Old 12-04-2019
DW SD DW SD is offline
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Originally Posted by badandy View Post
A 12v circ pump would use very little power (it's a small pump) compared to one of the big ones like what your main pump is.

I am being argumentative, but not maliciously
Thankfully, I can live with the 3600Watt seconds draw of the main pump!!
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  #14  
Old 12-04-2019
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NoGas NoGas is offline
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Default Quick Hot Recycling Design Works

Quote:
Originally Posted by badandy View Post
The right way to do it is to install a check valve and a circulation pump along with the return line. The circulation pump will move water around in a circle through the water heater, out to the fixtures, and then right back to the inlet of the water heater. This way no warm/hot water ever makes it back to the tank. The hardest part is usually running that water line back to the tank, so just put a pump and check valve in there and call it good.
You guys crack me up!

What you suggest Andy is exactly how the ChilePepper recirculating pump I installed in the BirdHouse works - see HERE. It worked so well in the house, I thought why not in the coach? Could’ve done that but what I designed is simpler and less $$. Plus unlike in a house, on the M380 running a separate return PEX line back to an unpressurized tank was easier & cheaper than a separate pump. The timer I used is adjustable so like Doug said, very little (if any) HOT water actually makes it back to the Main Tank. But if that worries you, I see no reason why a simple temperature sensing switch (like on the ChilePepper - see pic below) couldn’t be added. It could easily be wired in-series with the timer to turn the QH off by closing the recycling solenoid valve the moment HOT water appears at a HOT side line. That’s how the ChilePepper works. THIS $15 KIT with a Tee, wired to open the solenoid at 165° and close it at 175° would probably work. However, I see no reason to add that capability and won’t be doing so .

Can tell you we spent all last summer totally off grid with the coach and the QuickHot worked perfectly every time, with no “nasties” . Though not Lithiums, our battery/solar system also performed flawlessly with plenty of power
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Last edited by NoGas; 12-04-2019 at 07:35 PM.
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