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How to properly tow your 'Bird Here you will find some opinions on what some of our members did when they had to have their 'Bird towed by a wrecker service.

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  #21  
Old 09-11-2018
al perna al perna is offline
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when you say you over heated are you saying the engine shut down ? Were you climbing , or did you loose a hose or something ?

Also do you use silverleaf or scan gauge ? I know on my s60 the factory gauge does not reflect the accurate temps , so I do hope this was the issue for you as well . Can you provide a bit more info on the overheating and what it was ? I recall worrying about overheating also and went to a Diesel shop to ask , and they told me it never overheated . So that's when I purchased a scan gauge and now feel much better knowing the true temps.
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  #22  
Old 09-11-2018
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pairodice pairodice is offline
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Thanks for the updates and clarifications on the tow truck style used. I believe the rig would be considered a 'stinger' but it had this huge attachment that had another set of smaller wheels and tires on it. I think the video shows the type of carrier was used. I don't have a decent picture of the back of the truck.
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Last edited by pairodice; 09-11-2018 at 08:59 AM.
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  #23  
Old 09-11-2018
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pairodice pairodice is offline
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For the cooling problem we found a simple (stupid) solution - I am going to repost here what I put on the Newell forum if you don't mind (so I don't have to re-type it all!):

At the end of another long and exhausting day the mechanics at Bernd's came through! The little 'L'-shaped fitting was the issue. All along we thought the engine or radiator pressure was causing the problems. One of the mechanics was with me at FT, he closed the rear gate and noticed that the door was not flush (I had noticed this also) like it normally was. Then he noticed some coolant coming out over the exhaust pipe. We looked at the little fitting and then one of them noticed that when the rear gate came down it was hitting the fitting and breaking it! After a few opens and shuts of the rear gate we all agreed, went to the store and got another L fitting, removed the broken piece (again) and inserted the new one. This time we routed the hose from the top rather than into the side of the fitting. Problem solved. We still are going to pull the valve covers and check the torque on (I think it is the heads) tomorrow - if they are tight then no problem, if they are loose then there is a big problem $$$$$...

These pictures are for a Newell but serve to show how something very small can create a huge problem...
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Karen & Adrian Abshire - Current coach: 1998 double slide 45' Newell
Prior: 1985 Foretravel ORED 35, 1988 38' Foretravel U280, 2000 Foretravel 42' U320, 1990 WB40 'Mauvelous'(sold)

Last edited by pairodice; 09-11-2018 at 09:01 AM.
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  #24  
Old 09-11-2018
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pairodice pairodice is offline
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Al, I don't have a Silverleaf or VMSPC but am GETTING one! I think part of the original problem is that I put too much trust in 20 year old guages - but the coach needed to be checked anyway and it was a good time for us to bring it in.
We did get a stop engine but I was already on the side of the road since I had been watching the gauges and go alarmed when they indicated 220 degrees - it was at this point (after having the service done) that I had the issue with the 'L' fitting breaking due to the door coming down on it. I thought (was told) this fitting was a pressure release - even though now I know it should have never come out but rather the radiator cap should have taken care of it - my car education was with a Volkswagen :-)
Note to self: get a Silverleaf or VMSPC... I'll research today and get it ordered since we are not going to be driving this coach for a while - waiting on insurance adjusters to fix the damage to the front cap...
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Prior: 1985 Foretravel ORED 35, 1988 38' Foretravel U280, 2000 Foretravel 42' U320, 1990 WB40 'Mauvelous'(sold)
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  #25  
Old 09-11-2018
CaptPegLeg CaptPegLeg is offline
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Plastic fittings don’t belong on coolant systems. Any strain will cause them to fail. If your repair is that brass ell then your troubles may not be over. It appears to me that it is cross threaded into the fitting. But I’m often wrong, she says.
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  #26  
Old 09-11-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pairodice View Post
Thanks for the updates and clarifications on the tow truck style used. I believe the rig would be considered a 'stinger' but it had this huge attachment that had another set of smaller wheels and tires on it. I think the video shows the type of carrier was used. I don't have a decent picture of the back of the truck.
That 3rd rear axle is a tag on the truck. Added to carry more weight. not part of the under reach at all.

I didn't see any "bus forks" or "wheel grid" in use.
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  #27  
Old 09-11-2018
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If thats a fix I dont want any. Bob you are right unless that pipe nipple was defective. Brass looks cross threaded. Newell guys didnt catch it?
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  #28  
Old 09-11-2018
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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i think the engine bay door hit the brass elbow or the hose screwed to it and broke the elbow at the threads.
seeing that the elbow was new,i suspect its been hit before.
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  #29  
Old 09-11-2018
badandy badandy is offline
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I think some of you guys need to adjust your bifocals. A couple of the photos show a broken elbow that's not crossthreaded. The last photo shows the proper fix. Interesting that there's fresh sealant on the broken elbow, though.
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  #30  
Old 09-11-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badandy View Post
I think some of you guys need to adjust your bifocals. A couple of the photos show a broken elbow that's not crossthreaded. The last photo shows the proper fix. Interesting that there's fresh sealant on the broken elbow, though.
Your right Andy. That is a different, and appears to be a correctly installed elbow. No line Trifocals cleaned and adjusted.
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