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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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Old 06-23-2019
Docneon Docneon is offline
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Default Suburban heater issue

Before setting out this summer, I removed my non functioning rear bedroom LP heater, Suburban NT16, and restored it to working condition. It works great and keeps the bedroom toasty warm, but when my galley furnace comes on, the bedroom furnace goes out or will not light. My front LP furnace is non functioning so cannot test against that. I replaced the regulator with one capable of 200,000 btu/hr and same results. Stove works fine and to the best of my testing does not effect the rear heater. It wouldn’t be so bad if it wasn’t in the low 30’s!

Suggestions?
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Old 06-23-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Docneon View Post
Before setting out this summer, I removed my non functioning rear bedroom LP heater, Suburban NT16, and restored it to working condition. It works great and keeps the bedroom toasty warm, but when my galley furnace comes on, the bedroom furnace goes out or will not light. My front LP furnace is non functioning so cannot test against that. I replaced the regulator with one capable of 200,000 btu/hr and same results. Stove works fine and to the best of my testing does not effect the rear heater. It wouldn’t be so bad if it wasn’t in the low 30’s!

Suggestions?
First, What did you do to 'restore it to working condition'?

When it fails does the motor slow down indicating a voltage problem?

Beyond that you need to follow the gas supply back to the refer compartment and be certain it is not kinked or damaged and any shutoff's are fully open.

Measure the pressure in the line when working and failing.
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Old 06-23-2019
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Bill Pape Bill Pape is offline
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some of these old Birds have more than one regulator
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Old 06-23-2019
Docneon Docneon is offline
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Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
First, What did you do to 'restore it to working condition'?

When it fails does the motor slow down indicating a voltage problem?

Beyond that you need to follow the gas supply back to the refer compartment and be certain it is not kinked or damaged and any shutoff's are fully open.

Measure the pressure in the line when working and failing.

When I took it apart, it was quite dirty, but the main problem that prevented it from working was that from the factory, the ignition wire was pinched between the burner assembly and the case causing a direct short once the insulation wore through. It is unknown how long it was in this inoperable condition, but the supply was shut off behind the refer. I dissembled the entire thing and cleaned it stem to stern. Replaced the ignition wire and it fires right up, producing great heat.

When it fails, it just flames out. Fan keeps running. If it is starting and the other heater is on, it just tries to ignite like 5x then just runs the fan.

There is an additional regulator in the propane tank door with a quick connect for a stove or grill. There is another regulator behind the refer that I have no idea where it goes.

Out on the road, I don’t have a way to test the line pressure. I could rig something up when I get home.
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Old 06-23-2019
photoadjuster photoadjuster is offline
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Your problem is similar to one I had. Mine turned out to be the Sail Switch. You wrote the unit was quite dirty. The sail switch has a small opening that is very bad about allowing dirt and grim into the interior of the switch. The switch controls the fire and will not allow the unit to fire if it does not sense air flow over the switch arm. You can use electronic spray cleaner to temporary fix it.
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Old 06-23-2019
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The regulator in the refer compartment is supplied by a high pressure line from the tank. The output goes to the appliances. (heaters, stove, refer). What regulator did you replace?
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Old 06-23-2019
badandy badandy is offline
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There's also a shutoff valve for the LP detectors that might be acting up, too?
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Old 06-23-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
The regulator in the refer compartment is supplied by a high pressure line from the tank. The output goes to the appliances. (heaters, stove, refer). What regulator did you replace?
I replaced the regulator off of the main tank just aft of the main shut off valve.

There are only 5 appliances that’s that use LP, why do we need 3 regulators?!?
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Old 06-23-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badandy View Post
There's also a shutoff valve for the LP detectors that might be acting up, too?
When one sniffer goes, it effects the whole system. In my case, everything still works except the rear furnace which I assumed was not getting enough pressure being the furthest from the regulator.
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Old 06-24-2019
badandy badandy is offline
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You should have 2 regulators, not 3 - they would put a medium pressure reg on the tank, then get it down to lower pressure by the fridge. If you put a low pressure one on your LP tank then the other regulator by the fridge probably can't do its job. Did you put a two-stage on the LP tank? If so you can remove/bypass the regulator behind the fridge.
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