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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #11  
Old 02-15-2010
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DonB DonB is offline
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I'm optimistic. I've slammed a Bronco tailgate countless times, and it is at least as violent as closing a Bird door! In any case, replacement PVC pieces are readily available and not expensive.
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  #12  
Old 03-03-2011
rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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I need to lower the strike pin about 1/8" and planned to do it by enlarging the hole downwards. After reading this it appears the plate on the back either doesn't move, or moves out of reach and is hard to reattach. Any ideas? I am reluctant to pull the pin after Randy's experience. Does anyone else have a way to do this?

For those of you who have taken the post out, is it possible to do what I am thinking? Sounds like the threaded backing plate will prevent this.
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  #13  
Old 03-03-2011
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Ron if all else fails could you modify the pin slightly (dremel tool)???
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  #14  
Old 03-04-2011
rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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Rob, I don't think so. Reducing the diameter would affect the latch. I need to lower it. This door has never been right, even from the plant. It hasn't sagged or worn; it just isn't lined up right. The other option is to raise the latch, but those holes would require welding shut and redrilling, not my bag. I'm still thinking....
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  #15  
Old 03-06-2011
rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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Okay, I fixed the door. Here's what I learned.

Unlike most adjustments on that pin, mine was 3/16" too high when at the bottom of its adjustment. How to lower....

The pin screws into a floating back plate. Randy's was not captured. Don's was. So BlueBird apparently saw the problem and fixed it. I pulled mine and found the floating rectangular plate captured in a big steel angle iron that I removed from the door jamb (not attached by any screws). I filed the hole larger on the lower side and reassembled. Works the way it should have when new.

If you do this, be sure to plug the hole under the backer plate in case it is not captured.

Problem: Any movement of that steel piece that holds the backer plate affects the handhold bar as it is screwed into that steel piece also. I moved it enough to drill and tap for new screw holes. Might be easier in some applications to just drift the hole in the wood to line up with the original holes, and shorten the handhold tube an equal amount.
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