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  #1  
Old 07-02-2010
jamesh0 jamesh0 is offline
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Default Dash air blower replacement in ten minutes

When the blower motors failed in my dash air, I first attempted to take the evaporator unit apart and repair the blowers. This would have involved taking apart the overhead compartment and discharging the refrigerant just for starters. To avoid this work, I purchased a couple of marine 4" bilge blowers, and simply installed them on the outside of the evaporator, in-line in each of the cold air discharge lines. This solution does not offer speed control, although a solid state control is available for only 29.00 each if needed. My feeling is that if you need the dash air, you want as much as you can get. Anyway, the Rule bilge blowers are around 39.00 each from West Marine, are easy to install and replace, and surely can not be worse quality than the factory blowers, which are only the finest plastic. This entire job took less than an hour, and the system is back in full operation.
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James Hollingsworth
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  #2  
Old 07-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesh0 View Post
When the blower motors failed in my dash air, I first attempted to take the evaporator unit apart and repair the blowers. This would have involved taking apart the overhead compartment and discharging the refrigerant just for starters. To avoid this work, I purchased a couple of marine 4" bilge blowers, and simply installed them on the outside of the evaporator, in-line in each of the cold air discharge lines. This solution does not offer speed control, although a solid state control is available for only 29.00 each if needed. My feeling is that if you need the dash air, you want as much as you can get. Anyway, the Rule bilge blowers are around 39.00 each from West Marine, are easy to install and replace, and surely can not be worse quality than the factory blowers, which are only the finest plastic. This entire job took less than an hour, and the system is back in full operation.
James,

You are my hero of the day and I'm wondering if you have been looking over my shoulder

I have been doing some wiring in the front overhead compartment and while I was in there I had three projects that I wanted to complete and one of them is to replace that right blower motor and even though my engine driven Dash (?) Air has been disconnected, I still use those blowers to help circulate cool air from my Front Roof 120v airconditioner and I dreaded having to remove that evaporator and your idea will work just fine.


I went to the West Marine website and found the Blower and I'll be ordering one today, here is the information from the West Marine website.



In-Line Blower
4" ID Hose
13.6 Vdc
235 CFM
WM Model# 1896950
$37.99


http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=11211

The right side blower on mine has never operated and some of those wires over there have been cut by one of the previous owners so I'm needing additional help from you, I don't have that wiring diagram and I'm asking you to please tell me where you accessed 12v for the blower, what was the color and number of that wire and a larger picture of that source would be great........................I know I'm asking for lot, but that would be a great help.
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I'm NO EXPERT, but I did stay in the FINN'S INN EXPRESS last night
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA
VISIT THE FINN'S INN EXPRESS REMODELING ADVENTURE AND TECH. TIPS
I'M SO SLOW ON THE HILLS,THAT I GET TO SMELL THE FLOWERS AS I GO BY.....AND WATCH THEM GROW TOO!! NOT SO MUCH ANYMORE
Visit the WILD HARE RACING website
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  #3  
Old 07-02-2010
jamesh0 jamesh0 is offline
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Glad this was helpful. There are four wires going to each blower, on each side, three heavy 12ga power wires, from the corresponding a/c fan switch on the dash, and a black ground wire, secured by a screw on the outside of the evaporator, one per side. These four wires are easy to locate, since they pass through their respective hole on each side of the top plate, directly over each motor. From the wire harness, the three power wires are the same color, blue in my case, and are heavy, about 12 gauge, and have numbered labels. Since there is nothing else electrical attached to the evaporator, other than these wires, you can simply cut each bundle, right where they pass into the top, separate them, strip them, hook the black ground (from the screw in front) to the new blower, then using a test light or meter place the blower switch in the first position and see which of the three is hot, and connect to your new blower. Cap off the other two for future reference and you are good to go. Since this was a quick project, (going fishing tonight) I didn't worry about the speed issue, but I will fix that later. These motors can easily be controlled with a solid state variable PCM controller, available cheaply, which would replace the three position switch in the dash. Of course, you would want to assemble a potentiometer with a power switch section to engage the compressor, for the left side control. Good luck, and keep your dash air working, it is a wonderful feature, and I wouldn't be without it. p.s. When I get back from fishing, I will photo the wire numbers and location and pass it along.
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Last edited by jamesh0; 07-02-2010 at 09:20 AM. Reason: additional information
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  #4  
Old 07-02-2010
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My right blower is acting up to thats strange
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesh0 View Post
Glad this was helpful. There are four wires going to each blower, on each side, three heavy 12ga power wires, from the corresponding a/c fan switch on the dash, and a black ground wire, secured by a screw on the outside of the evaporator, one per side. These four wires are easy to locate, since they pass through their respective hole on each side of the top plate, directly over each motor. From the wire harness, the three power wires are the same color, blue in my case, and are heavy, about 12 gauge, and have numbered labels. Since there is nothing else electrical attached to the evaporator, other than these wires, you can simply cut each bundle, right where they pass into the top, separate them, strip them, hook the black ground (from the screw in front) to the new blower, then using a test light or meter place the blower switch in the first position and see which of the three is hot, and connect to your new blower. Cap off the other two for future reference and you are good to go. Since this was a quick project, (going fishing tonight) I didn't worry about the speed issue, but I will fix that later. These motors can easily be controlled with a solid state variable PCM controller, available cheaply, which would replace the three position switch in the dash. Of course, you would want to assemble a potentiometer with a power switch section to engage the compressor, for the left side control. Good luck, and keep your dash air working, it is a wonderful feature, and I wouldn't be without it. p.s. When I get back from fishing, I will photo the wire numbers and location and pass it along.

Thank you very much!!!
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JOHN FINN
FORUM MODERATOR-ADMINISTRATOR
1982 FC35RB
I'm NO EXPERT, but I did stay in the FINN'S INN EXPRESS last night
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA
VISIT THE FINN'S INN EXPRESS REMODELING ADVENTURE AND TECH. TIPS
I'M SO SLOW ON THE HILLS,THAT I GET TO SMELL THE FLOWERS AS I GO BY.....AND WATCH THEM GROW TOO!! NOT SO MUCH ANYMORE
Visit the WILD HARE RACING website
REMEMBER 9/11
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  #6  
Old 07-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesh0 View Post
When the blower motors failed in my dash air, I first attempted to take the evaporator unit apart and repair the blowers. This would have involved taking apart the overhead compartment and discharging the refrigerant just for starters. To avoid this work, I purchased a couple of marine 4" bilge blowers, and simply installed them on the outside of the evaporator, in-line in each of the cold air discharge lines. This solution does not offer speed control, although a solid state control is available for only 29.00 each if needed. My feeling is that if you need the dash air, you want as much as you can get. Anyway, the Rule bilge blowers are around 39.00 each from West Marine, are easy to install and replace, and surely can not be worse quality than the factory blowers, which are only the finest plastic. This entire job took less than an hour, and the system is back in full operation.
James this fan looks like it might be a good replacement for the noisy 4 inch vent fan I have in my bathroom. I'm interested in replacing this loud fan and was wondering if these RULE units are quiet. Your opinion on their suitability for a bathroom application would be appreciated.
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  #7  
Old 07-02-2010
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Rob
I thought that the fans in the bathroom were noisy on purpose.
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  #8  
Old 07-02-2010
jamesh0 jamesh0 is offline
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I thought they were reasonably quiet. At West Marine, they were kind enough to allow me to test their different blowers on a battery. The Rule blower was the best combination of performance and noise. Compared to my failed blowers, one of which broke loose internally from the motor, and the other one which had a failed squeaking bearing, these were like heaven. If you have room, you could put two in the same hose, then wire them in series for a very quiet fan system with a lifetime of service. You could also establish three speeds with low being two fans in series (6v ea) then only one fan on 12v then both on 12v for high seed. I almost did that, and might yet, after I try these for a while. Have fun!
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Old 07-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesh0 View Post
When the blower motors failed in my dash air, ... To avoid this work, I purchased a couple of marine 4" bilge blowers, and simply installed them on the outside of the evaporator, in-line in each of the cold air discharge lines. .
That is a great idea. What made you think of this?
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2010
jamesh0 jamesh0 is offline
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It just seemed like the thing to do. No one is happier than I am that it worked as well as it did. Unusual technical solutions to problems have always been my specialty.
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