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  #1  
Old 05-20-2009
gcyeaw's Avatar
gcyeaw gcyeaw is offline
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Default aux air comp. installation

I purchased a makita compressor to use to air up the coach, open the gennerator draw, or run air tools. It is small but will build up to 120+ lbs ,although not too fast. I measured and the compressor will fit where the old bulk oiler tank was located.

I had come nice u-channel steel from an exercise machne someone put out for curb-side pickup (junk day), so I went to work. The u-channel will run under the compressor from the rear side of the Cruisair compartment to the tray under the racor. I built a bracket to attach to the Cruisair compartment bolts that hold the bottom on. the bracket will hang down 4 or 5 inches, but not low enough to hit anything. If it does hit something , I will also loose the step and generator.

I made up compressor mounting brackets using angle iron and rubber shock mounts.

Here is the assembly ready for fitting into the coach. Hopefully I will finish this weekend.
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86 PT-36 Golden Memories
83FC35 SB $IXTEEN TON$ SOLD
78 FC 33 Happinest (Sold)
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  #2  
Old 05-21-2009
hturner 12
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Default aux compressor

Gardener
I got one of the $88.00 from Advance and a25' hose and hose reel from Harbor freight. I put both of them in the equipment bay the sit next to each other.
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  #3  
Old 05-21-2009
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Hugh,
The problem with an FC is the small storage bays. The PT's have cavernous bays.
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86 PT-36 Golden Memories
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  #4  
Old 05-30-2009
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I finished up the mount fitting and the plumbing today. I installed a pressure protection valve and a one-way valve in paralell so the air will pass through the one-way when the tanks are empty, but be protected against draining below 70 lbs from the air chuck. The pressure protect valve will not alow air to pass from either direction if the tank pressure is below the valve setting.

I still need to paint the parts for final installation and install suitable mounts for the valve assembly. Here are a few more pictures.
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  #5  
Old 05-31-2009
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Gardner, thanks for sharing the details of your project. Nice picts and labels. I too would like to be able to air up without starting the engine, to check and fill tire pressures in the quiet campsite, to sometimes change the step position, or to be able to fill bike tires or use air tools, and most of all, to be able to air up the coach system (brakes and suspension) so that I can startup and leave the campground quicker, without bothering neighbors so long with noise and fumes. I have room for one, but the place where I’ve heard people with SP’s put them is in the “wet bay” next to the water heater and water pump, I guess because that’s where the stock air outlet is for airing tires up. But I see some rust in there, and I’ve seen moisture in there, I guess from small leaks or from condensation, and I wonder if that would be good for the compressor? I don’t fully understand the need for the two valves. Wouldn’t just the one way check valve work? Is the additional 70psi pressure protect valve just so that if the air chuck fitting leaks it will leave 70psi in the system, and that would be enough for brakes? And if so, shouldn’t there have been one on my air chuck outlet already? (maybe there is) I guess I'd want an adjustable regulator on the air chuck port to be able to turn it down for use with some air tools. Also, would a compressor like this one produce enough volume to work in an emergency situation and allow driving the coach if the main compressor went out? If so, 'seems like another good reason to have one these, and 'seems like it should've/could've/would've been in there already from the "multiple redundancy"/"convenience conscious" Wanderlodge folks!
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  #6  
Old 05-31-2009
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Fred,
I have a chuck on the compressor which I would use for whatever (air tools, etc), so I put the pressure protect in for that reason, and also because a leak or other problem with my aux compressor could leave me stranded. The factory air chuck has a pressure protect valve in the circuit, in fact I think the valve is shared by all of the non-brake air systems (horn, suspension, and various other air operated devices.

If the wet tank is empty the pressure protect valve will not allow air flow in either direction, so the compressor could not fill the tank. The one-way valve is there for that condition, so the compressor can push air into an empty/low system. Once there is sufficient pressure in the tank, the pressure protect valve will open and allow air to pass in either direction.

I suppose the aux compressor could get you to a safe place to stop if your main compressor failed, but I don't think it has the volume capacity (CFM) or duty cycle to take you very far. It would most likley overheat and fail. The main compressor is water cooled and is fed oil pressure from the engine for the bearings.
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86 PT-36 Golden Memories
83FC35 SB $IXTEEN TON$ SOLD
78 FC 33 Happinest (Sold)
Ridgewood, New Jersey
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  #7  
Old 06-01-2009
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curtsprenger curtsprenger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'just wanderin? View Post
Gardner, thanks for sharing the details of your project. Nice picts and labels. I too would like to be able to air up without starting the engine, to check and fill tire pressures in the quiet campsite, to sometimes change the step position, or to be able to fill bike tires or use air tools, and most of all, to be able to air up the coach system (brakes and suspension) so that I can startup and leave the campground quicker, without bothering neighbors so long with noise and fumes. I have room for one, but the place where I’ve heard people with SP’s put them is in the “wet bay” next to the water heater and water pump, I guess because that’s where the stock air outlet is for airing tires up. But I see some rust in there, and I’ve seen moisture in there, I guess from small leaks or from condensation, and I wonder if that would be good for the compressor? I don’t fully understand the need for the two valves. Wouldn’t just the one way check valve work? Is the additional 70psi pressure protect valve just so that if the air chuck fitting leaks it will leave 70psi in the system, and that would be enough for brakes? And if so, shouldn’t there have been one on my air chuck outlet already? (maybe there is) I guess I'd want an adjustable regulator on the air chuck port to be able to turn it down for use with some air tools. Also, would a compressor like this one produce enough volume to work in an emergency situation and allow driving the coach if the main compressor went out? If so, 'seems like another good reason to have one these, and 'seems like it should've/could've/would've been in there already from the "multiple redundancy"/"convenience conscious" Wanderlodge folks!
Fred,
The least expensive way to air up everything that you mentioned in your post is to carry a 20 Lb. CO2 Cylinder with a 150 or 160 LB. Fixed Regulator and use a good quality inflaitor tool. It will air up all that you mentioned. Our on-board compressor works great to air up the suspension , etc. in campgrounds or here at home, but takes too long to air up tires. The CO2 unit airs up tires in a few seconds. You can run an air gun off the co2 Tank. I have photos somewhere if you are interested. The CO2 can be used at the rear of the coach to air the coach air systems.
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  #8  
Old 06-03-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtsprenger View Post
Fred,
The least expensive way to air up everything that you mentioned in your post is to carry a 20 Lb. CO2 Cylinder with a 150 or 160 LB. Fixed Regulator and use a good quality inflaitor tool. It will air up all that you mentioned. Our on-board compressor works great to air up the suspension , etc. in campgrounds or here at home, but takes too long to air up tires. The CO2 unit airs up tires in a few seconds. You can run an air gun off the co2 Tank. I have photos somewhere if you are interested. The CO2 can be used at the rear of the coach to air the coach air systems.
Curt, (or anybody else) I've heard of doing that but I thought I understood that while convenient and fast filling, due to the expansion, it is expensive to start (for the heavy duty tank and regulator) and expensive to refill. ? I thought buying a compressor at Harbor Freight for $70 and a check valve was the cheapest, with no recurring costs.? I thought you could still air up the tires fast (time at the tire)(since the big volume wet tank is providing the air), as long as you wait a little in between tires (for the little compressor to re-fill the wet tank).? Was I missunderstanding something in those previous posts?
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2010
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Default aux air comp. installation

good morning hope everyone had a great holiday!
ok..want to install aux. air comp. i am wondering if anyone knows if bb would have installed 120v. wire to a location in bus to install air comp. from factory? i have drawing of air lines in bus and it shows a coil of tubing to run to aux air comp. but i don't have any idea where any of the above would be located in 94 wb or if this was done in all bus for future install or not. is there wiring to dash that would connect to switch if you install one, does it run to relay to switch on power to air comp. ? sure would make it easyer if any of above came installed from factory! does anyone out there know? thank to all for any help mike
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  #10  
Old 12-01-2010
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My '93 wb has an electrical outlet in the same (driver's side) compartment as the water pumps, and I believe this is where the aux 110V air compressor was installed in coaches that had this option (which was needed if you had a floor plan that required a toilet with compressed air flushing).

I put a Porter Cable pancake compressor (around $150 from Lowe's) on the upper shelf, along with an auto-retracting hose reel that holds enough airline to reach all the tires on the bus. The compressor just fits if you remove the plastic handle that attaches to the shroud.

I added a second air line that goes through a water vapor collector and a ball valve before plugging into the quick disconnect air line that was put on the right side wall of that compartment. By opening the ball valve I can air up my suspension prior to departure (or operate the front step) without having to run the engine an extra 3-5 minutes and annoy my neighbors. It will pressurize the suspension but not the air brake resevoirs, and this is a how it should be so that dums-dums like me aren't ever tempted to drive the bus without the onboard air compressor working properly. Plus it protects the brake system components from any moisture that might get by the water trap.

When the storm here stops long enough I will try to get pics, but it is a very neat arrangement and I wouldn't give it up. When I was looking at Rick Davis' coach he said that everything was for sale but his air compressor, and now I know why.
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