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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 12-26-2019
ERWIN O ERWIN O is offline
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Default Propane Assistance

Bird came with an empty propane tank. Filled it up for the first time on the way out of town on our road trip. Tank took 30 gallons then stopped. Fill guy (my brother. Long story) said that it had an auto stop valve when it was full. Like a 5 gallon barbecue tank. No propane ever sprayed out the release valve like when I get my forklift tank filled.

I am at my spot for the night and no propane from the stove. I have all the switches on. Cabinet switch. Switch in fill station. And reset my propane alarm. No propane at stove.

Are the line simply so full of air I need to bleed it off through the burner? Left the burner on for 20 min. No propane??

Thoughts

Erwin
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2019
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Does the alarm chirp?
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  #3  
Old 12-26-2019
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When you turned on the gas to the stove, could you hear gas hissing from the burner?

Our bus has one solenoid valve that is controlled by the propane detector (behind the fridge) and 4 ball valves that go to the stove, fridge and chassis heaters. All points of failure. Also make sure your ball valves are "on".
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  #4  
Old 12-26-2019
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Does your propane gauge (where the fresh water tank and holding tank gauges are) work? What does it read?
If no propane came out of the overfill valve, I wonder if you actually got any propane?
Do the green LEDs on the propane alarm blink?
If you have the same 2 burner cooktop we do, you need to push down on the burner control knob to get the gas in until the burner is lit and hot. Just turning the valve to on will not let gas flow.
In addition to the solenoid switch where the fill connector is there is another on/off switch where the gauges are located.
Good luck tracking it down
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  #5  
Old 12-26-2019
ERWIN O ERWIN O is offline
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To answer questions

I was outside watching the pump. It took 30 gallons. And it didn’t pump into the air. I just went outside and cracked the propane bleed valve. It spit a lot of air before I had a propane mist come out.

My green light on the propane detector is blinking. I turned on the main switch inside and at fill then the alarm goes off. I then reset it at the alarm panel and it chirped a few times and then stops and blinks green.

Where are these “BALL VALVES” you speak of?

I also will try to depress the burner valves to release air.

Erwin
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  #6  
Old 12-26-2019
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I am afraid I can only tell you where our ball valves are on our bus. Maybe yours are in a similar place or maybe they aren't?

All of our ball valves are behind the fridge and we access them from the vent door on the exterior of the bus. They are in an easy to reach area so you can turn off the systems independently, as needed.

Hopefully someone will chime in here that has a bus like yours and can tell you exactly where yours might be.

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  #7  
Old 12-26-2019
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The 96 will not have Danas ball valves.
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  #8  
Old 12-27-2019
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It’s not “WRONG” to not bleed pressure off the tank when filling with propane. They don’t bleed the big one at your house when they fill it up. Pump more liquid in and pressure increases —— just like it’s supposed to work. That’s why a “totally FULL” propane tank will only show 80% on the gauge. There has to be room for expansion as the sun shines on a tank and for the liquid propane to vaporize and expand.

The bleed valve type quantity gauges are old school. They work fine but release vapor into the atmosphere and Uncle EPA doesn’t like that much. Plus it’s dangerous to boot.

Three things I can think of —-

1. If the tank was truly empty (and OPENED) before your brother filled it up, then it may have moisture from normal condensation cycles. Opened systems breathe during hot and cold cycles like any fuel tank will. This results in moisture which freezes in the regulator and prevents flow.
I doubt this is your problem unless your brother really doesn’t know what he was doing. If that’s the case, the tank will need to be purged to remove the moisture.

2. The “propane detector” has blocked the flow of gas. Find and fix the problem.

3. The line to your stove, etc is full of air. This is what I suspect is your problem.
It takes a pretty long time to purge the air out of a line. 3 or 4 minutes. Maybe a little more.
Hold the button down until you get either a whiff of propane smell, then attempt to light the flame or if it has a clicker type lighter, it will light itself when the propane mixture becomes flammable.

In the future, don’t let your tank run out and you can avoid this problem.
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Last edited by max hendrix; 12-27-2019 at 12:39 AM. Reason: Sp
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  #9  
Old 12-27-2019
DW SD DW SD is offline
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My propane sensor LED, which might be different than yours, blinks green during startup. Then goes solid green. Is it possibly not opening the safety solenoid?
Can you measure 12V at the solenoid?
Do you hear it click on and off with the switch?
Can you run the fridge off of propane?

Doug
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  #10  
Old 12-27-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max hendrix View Post
It’s not “WRONG” to not bleed pressure off the tank when filling with propane. They don’t bleed the big one at your house when they fill it up. Pump more liquid in and pressure increases —— just like it’s supposed to work. That’s why a “totally FULL” propane tank will only show 80% on the gauge. There has to be room for expansion as the sun shines on a tank and for the liquid propane to vaporize and expand.

The bleed valve type quantity gauges are old school. They work fine but release vapor into the atmosphere and Uncle EPA doesn’t like that much. Plus it’s dangerous to boot.

Three things I can think of —-

1. If the tank was truly empty (and OPENED) before your brother filled it up, then it may have moisture from normal condensation cycles. Opened systems breathe during hot and cold cycles like any fuel tank will. This results in moisture which freezes in the regulator and prevents flow.
I doubt this is your problem unless your brother really doesn’t know what he was doing. If that’s the case, the tank will need to be purged to remove the moisture.

2. The “propane detector” has blocked the flow of gas. Find and fix the problem.

3. The line to your stove, etc is full of air. This is what I suspect is your problem.
It takes a pretty long time to purge the air out of a line. 3 or 4 minutes. Maybe a little more.
Hold the button down until you get either a whiff of propane smell, then attempt to light the flame or if it has a clicker type lighter, it will light itself when the propane mixture becomes flammable.

In the future, don’t let your tank run out and you can avoid this problem.
”Pump more liquid in and pressure increases —— just like it’s supposed to work.”

That statement doesn’t make sense... a 5% full tank and an 80% full tank both have essentially the same pressure at a given temperature.
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