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SP (Single Axle Pusher Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your SP model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it....List your SP parts here too.

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  #41  
Old 12-28-2017
wasper67 wasper67 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norskelodger View Post
This has always been a mystery to me as well, everyone says there is a pump, but I've never found it either, and I don't have any switch on the back or up on the dash. I've had others turn on the key while laying under the oil filters, and can't hear a thing except the thunk of the fuel solenoid. I traced the fuel lines from the engine filter all the way up to the racor, and no pump. There is no hand pump, either.

Our SP was either the 9th, 10th, 11th or 12th SP sold as an '89, the VIN says date of manufacture 2/13/89, so definitely one of the first built.
Chris
I have a 1990 SP and I have looked all over and came to the conclusion that I don't have a pump. Did you ever put one on and if so I would like some details like which one, where and how did you tap into a key on hot lead because that's my next project. So far I am leaning toward the Carter P4070 just because the 1/4" NPT Inlet and Outlet might be an easier install.
Thanks!
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Brian Norton
Cleveland, TN
(423) 464-2022


1990 Wanderlodge SP 36

Last edited by wasper67; 12-28-2017 at 11:04 AM.
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  #42  
Old 12-28-2017
Norskelodger's Avatar
Norskelodger Norskelodger is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: La Crosse
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I've been all over this thing and I'm pretty certain I don't have a pump, and I have not added one yet, but plan to someday. When I do, it will be back near the engine's fuel filter, easier to get to and wire. Other than the solenoid acting up occasionally, this 3208 barely turns and fires immediately, so fuel delivery not really a problem.

Regarding a new lift pump, I wouldn't want to put it between the tank and the Racor filter because that will create a positive pressure on the Racor gauge up on the dash, which isn't what it was designed for. Two reasons on this, the gauge is calibrated to read a clogged filter under a negative pressure (vacuum), so would be hard to tell when the filter is clogged, and if there were a positive pressure on that gauge line, and it were to start to leak, you'll have fuel dripping/spraying up in the dash.

On a side note, I think you will want to make sure that fuel solenoid is getting enough voltage. I have had trouble with that even with new batteries, I only see about 11 volts at the solenoid. It will work when cold, but after the engine is warmed up, the solenoid must be weaker, and starting is impossible until cool again. There is a great write up on this forum to add a solenoid and get a good direct connection to the battery (fused of course) for 12 to 14 volts. It's something that I have not had to do yet, but also planning on adding soon.

The main thing is to keep clean filters, watch the Racor gauge (your first line of defense against anything in the tank), keep the tank topped off to prevent rust and algae, and try to stay away from bio diesel. I've read enough about that stuff to play it safe and use straight #2.

Good luck,

Chris
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Chris Blegen
La Crosse, WI
1989 SP36 Silver Edition
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  #43  
Old 12-28-2017
wasper67 wasper67 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 66
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Norskelodger View Post
I've been all over this thing and I'm pretty certain I don't have a pump, and I have not added one yet, but plan to someday. When I do, it will be back near the engine's fuel filter, easier to get to and wire. Other than the solenoid acting up occasionally, this 3208 barely turns and fires immediately, so fuel delivery not really a problem.

Regarding a new lift pump, I wouldn't want to put it between the tank and the Racor filter because that will create a positive pressure on the Racor gauge up on the dash, which isn't what it was designed for. Two reasons on this, the gauge is calibrated to read a clogged filter under a negative pressure (vacuum), so would be hard to tell when the filter is clogged, and if there were a positive pressure on that gauge line, and it were to start to leak, you'll have fuel dripping/spraying up in the dash.

On a side note, I think you will want to make sure that fuel solenoid is getting enough voltage. I have had trouble with that even with new batteries, I only see about 11 volts at the solenoid. It will work when cold, but after the engine is warmed up, the solenoid must be weaker, and starting is impossible until cool again. There is a great write up on this forum to add a solenoid and get a good direct connection to the battery (fused of course) for 12 to 14 volts. It's something that I have not had to do yet, but also planning on adding soon.

The main thing is to keep clean filters, watch the Racor gauge (your first line of defense against anything in the tank), keep the tank topped off to prevent rust and algae, and try to stay away from bio diesel. I've read enough about that stuff to play it safe and use straight #2.

Good luck,

Chris
Thanks for your input all good info, I subscribed here so I will be following this thread. If I install mine before you do yours I will let you know how it goes.
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Cleveland, TN
(423) 464-2022


1990 Wanderlodge SP 36
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