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BMC (Bluebird Motor Coach Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your BMC coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....List your BMC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 12-16-2008
Lee Davis's Avatar
Lee Davis Lee Davis is offline
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Default Cummins 300 - Care and Feeding Of

For 300 Cummins 8.3 Engines with a Turbo in a 95 BMC, although I assume this note will apply to any Cummins 300.

I just went through all this and although it may be elementary, thought some folks might find it helpful. This note includes the Cummins part numbers

Coolant

For lifetime coolant (only needs to be changed at engine overhaul which for a motorhome unless there is a problem, probably really is a lifetime)

Fleetguard Blue Coolant – Part number for 100% concentrate version of coolant is CC2820 (about $21/gal)
Change Filter every 12 months or 10K miles, whichever comes first. Filter number (charged with chemicals) WF 2121 (NAPA # is 4082) This is an expensive filter ($75) but is only changed once a year thereafter and coolant is good basically forever in a motorhome

If you are going to change the coolant, drain it, fill with distilled water, run engine until thermostat opens (with heater on to get the coolant out of the heater hoses), then turn off the engine and drain again. If no sediment or particles in what you drained, then fill with 50-50 coolant concentrate (CC2820) and distilled water or buy premixed 50-50 for ordinary climate use. Run engine again with heater hoses on to distribute throughout the engine and top off to the appropriate level with 50-50 mix.

Oil

Lube – Change Oil every 10K miles or 12 months – Use Lube Filter Venturi-Combo 9009
For normal use (not super cold temperatures), use something like Rotella-T - 15W40. I used DELO 400(Chevron).

The Cummins tech person (chemist) said that some folks push oil changes with these better combo filters up to 12-15K miles with no problems. 10K is fine but change it at least once a year no matter what the mileage. I was doing it every 5K miles (about twice a year) but she said that was overkill.

Fuel


The fuel filter (hard to see filter back on the side of the engine under the bed) is part number is FS 1251 (has replaced FF898)

The longer spin on filter away from the engine (the one that is easy to get to) I think is a FS 1212 (I already had a Donaldson filter P558000 replacement so I used that)

According to Cummins, to replace these, put a stopper in the center hole and pour at least ¾ full of clean diesel fuel in the open holes surrounding the stopper. Remove stopper and spin on. I did not do this; I just poured it pretty full in both the center and outer holes. According to Cummins, fuel filters do not operate full, they have about ¼ air in them during operation so not having it totally full when it is screwed on is not a problem. The chemist at Cummins tech service was not a big fan of filling the fuel filters with ATF instead of diesel fuel (Sorry Randy) . Unfortunately it is pretty much impossible to get that FS1251 filter back on the side of the engine without spilling a lot of the fuel out of it, so it took several tries to get the engine started after replacing these filters.


As a side note on a different subject, the tech person said it was best when coming down from higher speeds where the Turbo was running (like off the Interstate) to let the engine idle at normal idling temperature for 2-3 minutes before shutting it off as that keeps oil going up into the Turbo for a few minutes which is a good thing. Do not worry when the engine is hot that the oil pressure drops down lower at normal idle, about 7-800 RPM (you cannot set the high idle to cool down the turbo on a BMC). At lower speeds like going from the Interstate to a campground a few miles away, the speeds normally would be lower so the 2-3 minute wait to shut down would not be necessary, the Turbo would have had time to cool down during that period. Although previously another Cummins person at an FMCA seminar I was at awhile back said it was OK to just shut it off as soon as you stopped no matter what speed you are coming down from, I suspect the one I just talked with gave me better information. At least it makes more sense to me.

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1995 BMC 37
300 HP Cummins 6CTA 8.3 Turbocharged Diesel
Boldly Going Nowhere
http://www.bbirdmaps.com/index.cfm #117
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Old 12-16-2008
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Lee,thats one thing about changing filters,theres plenty of opinions about filling them,with fuel,with atf etc.
myself,i have used engine oil,atf,diesel fuel,hydraulic oil and kerosene with no problems.
sometimes you do what you have to do!
good info,thanks!
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Old 12-16-2008
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Mike Hohnstein Mike Hohnstein is offline
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Hmm yeah, chemists. They use freekin' microscopes and it kinda skews their common sense a little. I never plugged the center hole in 40 years of changing filters and have yet to introduce any derbis that resulted in a malfunction. I'd be more inclined to make sure double gasketing don't happen. That sucks, or more accurately blows, fluid every where. When I was shopping for SOB DPs a few years back, the common theme was no visible evidence of maintenence. That's a lot of the reason I figured I might as well get a unit with a blown engine and start fresh. So far so good.
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Old 12-16-2008
AC7880 AC7880 is offline
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Lee- another link that may help. Update the link if possible. Thanks! Dan

EDIT:
http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...read.php?t=718
In the BMC section, parts at top.


We have different part #s for the coolant filters, our other filter numbers match - although see the different types of fuel filters (with clear plasctic bowl at bottom, or w/o clear plastic bowl).
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Old 12-16-2008
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Missed the link dan?

Thanks again

got a ecm back today!:d

it fits your coach!

Ha ha!
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Old 12-17-2008
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Lee Davis Lee Davis is offline
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Default Fuel Filters, plugging the center

A friend and i were talking about this and we think the reason the Cummins tech person said to plug the center hole and fill the filter from the other holes around the side is so that if you have some trash or whatever in whatever you are ausing to fill the filter, it gets filtered by the filter and not poured into the side that goes to the engine. They assume some people will not be using nice clean diesel fuel. Imagine that.

Now if you are using nice clean stuff, it obviously doesn't matter.
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Lee - 423-292-5767 or Jacque 423-262-9569
or lnjdavis@gmail.com Please call or email instead of private messages


1995 BMC 37
300 HP Cummins 6CTA 8.3 Turbocharged Diesel
Boldly Going Nowhere
http://www.bbirdmaps.com/index.cfm #117
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Old 11-09-2010
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Lee,

(old thread resurrection - Just saw it) the slow down to cool off the turbo is a good idea. Lots of failed turbos because of the oil boiling/baking around the bearings. My father would lend me his Dodge (one of 3 over many years) and he always grilled in to make sure the Pyrometer temps were below 400 before shutting it down. Usually not a issue as just idling through a parking lot (or rv park in the case of a RV) would give it time. Although I can see some uninformed person pulling a big hill and pulling over at a scenic overlook and turning the key off with temps in the 900-1000+ range. That wouldn't be very good long term for the life of your turbo. And when a turbo shares the same oil as the rest of the engine then it shortens it's life as well.

If your engine is stock and you live in Houston where it's flat likely not a huge deal, Kentucky maybe should be a consideration. If you are modified then gauges and knowing what to look for and why is essential. After all we are talking about engines that cost 10's of thousands of dollars to replace. Better to spend <$1K on a proper set of gauges than buy a new powerplant.
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