Spot/Flood Light Motors

[TOPHAT1]

Just wanted to show how the small motors, that horizontally rotate and vertically move our BlueBirds spot/flood lights, look disassembled.
It has been mentioned on other posts to be aware of disassembling the motor assembly. The motor comes apart with the removal of three tinny screws that also doubles to hold the motor assembly onto the lights housing. ( The Horizontal Motor removal is done from the bottom of the light, where as the Vertical Motor is removed from the top of the clam shell area - which you do not need to remove the light from the coach's top).
The cap plate that holds the drive gear train - that it seen in the picture, is for the rotation (horizontal) motion - there is a drum instead of the external bronze gear on the vertical motor for the up/down motion the light. The drum on the vertical motor is where a braided wire is wrapped around it, for the motion the light bulbs frame for the up and down motion.
The gearing inside the motors are mostly plastic compound gears that are a slip fit on the two steel shafts. These compound gears create a gear reduction and increase the torque needed to move the weight of the spot light head.
In my case one of the last gears of the train has its teeth worn off, probably from driving the lights rotation into it's stop or from the vibration of the light during travel.
I did notice from another post, that Ron Rueckwald mentioned, that if you take the 4 screws that are in the smallest diameter pattern off (one of the screw also retaines the power cord of the light), to disassemble the 2 piece bottom ( the part that is the mounting of the lights base to the coaches top) that you can very easily loose the multiple plastic bearings that the light rotates on - these bearing are not in a retainer. But I also noticed that the amount of torque required to rotate the light increases with the tightening of these 4 screws. So my assumption is the higher the torque created by over tightening the 4 screws will also increase the wear on the plastic gears do to the force needed to rotate the lights housing.

Note the inside appearance of the light. The base section that the lights upper housing sits on ( the 4 screws with a larger diameter pattern - used to hold the top half and bottom half together), does not have a seal. So moisture can enter the upper housing and creates stuff to grow.


My motor works but the gear train does not function, due to the worn gear. I have done a search for the gears and can't find a replacement. It would be a cheap fix to replace the gear, then pay $65 and up for a new motor assembly.

This is what I have as part numbers for those that my need them in the future:
Spotlight is 60010-2012 or also called a 60010-2 series
Rotational or Horizontal motor is 18753-0350 also 6614374
Vertical motor is 18753-0457 also 6614523

If any one wants the dimensions of the plastic gears to search some, let me know and I'll post them.

If anyone has a non-functioning vertical or rotational motor laying around I'd be happy to take it and pay your shipping.

[rrueckwald]

I got the motors from West Marine, as the spotlights are marine lights. They had to order them, but got them.

[Fatsorider]

Great instructions on the motor Gunner. Are the 4 screws that hold the base to the roof self tapping or does it have nuts inside the coach? Mine seams to be hard and I can’t remove them from the top.
Thanks

[TOPHAT1]

Juan, the mounting screws have lock washers and nuts on the inside of the coach. But on mine and probably on your coach, is that you have to cut a square area out of the 3/4 plywood that is under the mounting screws location (which is behind the TV, up on top). I used a Oscillating Multifunction Tools ( which can be bought at Harbor freights) (a vibrating cutting tool) to remove the section of plywood to see and work on the nuts. I replaced the screws with Stainless Steel Countersunk (flat) head with a Hex Socket drive (have to use an Allen wrench). Found that the Philips head stripped out when I was removing them.

Three things to Note:
1) Don't over tighten the bolts that hold the plastic ball bearing section - reason it puts to much resistance on the motor trying to turn the light. So before you reinstall the light, check that you have full rotation of the light after you reconnect electrically.
2) You need two people - One to hold the screw on top as you undo the nuts below and when you reinstall.
3) Have two way radios - so you don't have to scream to hear each other. (besides, they are great when you have someone outside, when you are backing up the coach)

[Fatsorider]

Thanks Gunner, I’ve done a lot of work on my prior LXI and I think this job will be the toughest. I was hoping the factory didn’t do it that way but? I have that tool too. Just hope I don’t cut the roof as well. 2 way radios is a good idea too. Also got the “don’t over tighten the plastic ball bearing section” on your prior post. Looks like I’ll be inviting my brother over for a slow cooked BBQ then ask him to give me a hand in the meantime..
Thanks again

[Fatsorider]

Well, looks like I may not have to cut wood as there is a 3” space right in the center underneath the spot light mount allowing a wrench to fit to the right and left of the wood. So with some patience and a helper, removal should be a bit easier than expected.
Thanks for the tip.

[TOPHAT1]

That is great news. If you can't reach in to put the nut on during re-installation, tape the nut in the closed end of a wrench, so you have the reach capabilities.

[Fatsorider]

Yeah. I can teach the nuts but if not that’s a good idea.
Thanks again Gunner.

[Fatsorider]

Here is the cutting I had to do. Not so bad with the right tool. The new motor just came in today and next is the re-install.
Thanks again Gunner

[Hellcat]

Reading this and from a guy that has not had to tackle this job.

I wonder if it's possible to knock the heads of the top and just drive the bolts down and then put in Riv-nuts and bolt it back together.