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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too. |
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#1
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Here is a silly sounding question I hope someone traveling in their Bird this weekend can help me out with.
The cap on the top of the dipstick that sets the proper depth of the dipstick is loose. So, depending on its position, the dipstick will show either low or high. What I need to know is what the distance is from the tip of the dipstick to the top, or flat side, of the cap. With that info I should be able to make a repair. I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem. Thanks, Mike
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M. Austin Redmond, OR EZ GOING 1982 FC33 |
#2
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Good morning...on my 85 FC the trans fluid stick measures exactly 36" from the tip (fluid end) to the small 3/8" metal disk that is the bottom of the tube plug assembly. On mine, this disk is crimped on and appears to be the critical fix point. This small 3/8" disk is followed by a round rubber seal and then the metal top dust cap. The measurement from the tip to the top of the metal dust cap is 36 & 3/4".
Hope this helps!
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Frank W. 85FC33 (Sold 2021) Woodbridge, VA. Coach photos & comments: http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...php?albumid=79 |
#3
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Perfect!!!
Mine wonky also. Now I can fix it. Thanks for the info.
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John (and Robin) Churchill Black Tongue Farm Sanibel, FL 1979 FC33 Buddy Luce's bus (looking for a name) LARGE MARGE - She left me for another man |
#4
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Thanks Frank! I'm going to fix mine ASAP so I can determine if the fluid level is correct. The scary part is that the metal disc on the bottom side of the plug is gone! I assume its hiding in the pan waiting to be found.
Thanks again, Mike
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M. Austin Redmond, OR EZ GOING 1982 FC33 |
#5
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Mine was missing the disc and the cap. Disc fabrication was easy from sheet aluminum, then pressed down from above. On mine there are 2 marks where it was set, the upper has one peened edge and the lower both edges. This holds the disc in place (theoretically) with a little help from JB Weld. Then the stopper. I found that a 3/4" copper plumbing cap is about the perfect replacement for the upper cap, again with JB Weld holding it in place.
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John (and Robin) Churchill Black Tongue Farm Sanibel, FL 1979 FC33 Buddy Luce's bus (looking for a name) LARGE MARGE - She left me for another man |
#6
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For those of you that have never dropped your engine oil pan I would recommend that you do on your next oil change. I found nothing dramatic when I did mine on a 1985 PT40 but I needed to replace the old cork gasket with the new composite one. Replacing the gasket stopped the leaks out the side of it that was causing a film on the hoses etc and making a mess.
Talked to Shane Fedeli the day after and recommended he drop his pan and change his gasket also. He found a few little trinkets in the bottom of his pan. like a 5 inch bolt and I believe some washers and a nut. No telling what is in yours after 20-25 years of use. Many engines have never had their oil pans dropped and its just good preventative maintenance. Make sure if you do drop yours, you make 4 or more studs with the heads removed to guide the pan up into place. Cover both sides of the gasket with a good sealer and the studs will stop the gasket from slipping off to one side. Just snug the other bolts up and then remove the studs and put the bolts in and then torque every bolt up to 15 #.
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Tom Warner Vernon Center,NY 1985 PT40 SOLD 6V92 |
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