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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system. |
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#1
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I want to isolate the engine batteries and verify they are charging with the engine alternator. Seems they are not charging correctly and drain quickly.
So my plan is to have engine batteries and seperate house batteries with a inverter/charger. Just getting started in planning so would like any suggestions. Also not convinced generator is charging its starting battery so thinking of adding a trickle solar charger to that one. |
#2
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David,
You sure you don't already have separate engine/starting/house and generator batteries? My coach has 6 6V engine batteries and a separate generator battery up front that is already isolated to allow generator starting when the engine/house batteries get too low to start the big engine. Unless you have added an alternator to the front generator on your coach, it does not directly charge any batteries....rather, it provides power to the on-board battery charger/converters that then recharge all of the batteries. I can tell you it made a huge difference in my charging setup after I replaced all battery cables and ground straps, and also upgraded from the original "battery boiler" single stage OEM charger. Regards, Mike
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Mike Evans Richland, MI 1985 PT36 formerly known as "The Pine Mountain Express" 2005 Chevrolet Suburban SuperToad with Blue Ox baseplate and Aventa LX towbar, Brake Buddy |
#3
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That was my original plan too. I hope you have better success at it than I have.
I appears the early Bluebirds were designed to have the house & engine on one large battery bank with the generator battery isolated so that you could combine the two & still start the engine or generator if you ran the house/engine bank down. With that design, the engine and house systems were intermingled. Between that situation and the aftermarket changes that have been made to my coach, I see no way to separate the engine and house systems without almost ripping out everything & starting from scratch. Good Luck! TOM
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1995 WB40 8V92 ![]() 1985 PT36 SOLD 1982 PT40 SOLD |
#4
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Added a fourth battery and better cables, still not happy with the charging system and inverter (PACS) going to pull the inverter and test it and do something about the battery chargers (killers). Thinking a new inverter/charger and perhaps a solar trickle charger for the gennie battery.
I would still like seperate battery banks for starting engine and the house load but will have to wait for now until I do more research. |
#5
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David what did your coach come with for batteries?
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Michael C Wareham Ma ThunderBird 89 PT40 |
#6
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I replaced them with 3 type 31's and just addd a fouth
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#7
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Just checking - - you are aware the PACS is an inverter only - - - nothing to do with charging. IMHO "Don't fix it if it ain't broke."
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KC & Emma DeLand, FL 2000 LXI "Bordering On Adequate" |
#8
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Hi,
I have an '83 PT and wanted smart isolation, too. I built a system using a smart controller which ties the batteries together via continuous duty relays under charge and separates when the house battery bank is under discharge. You can see the small black box controller here: http://www.powerstream.com/battery-isolator.htm In my case, I attached the controller to a 500A Blue Sea Systems bus bar which ties all six of the positive legs of the 6V house batteries together. The main engine alternator 12V+ charging feed is also attached to the bus bar. But, I have the controller feeding two continuous duty relays. One ties the bus bar to the (8D) engine starting battery and a second ties the bus bar to the generator start battery. If you read through the info on the above page, you'll see the controller outputs 12V+ at >13.6V. This triggers the relays to connect, so their attached batteries will charge. And the controller disconnects below <12.7V (house under load w/ no charging). You'll find the controller to be about $40 shipped. Heavy duty continuous duty relays are about $35 from Ryder Fleet. I made my own cables and interconnects from 4/0 and 2/0. The 2/0 I bought from a welding supply store and the 4/0 from DelCity, an online supplier of electronics components. I have attached a picture, which I can walk you through if necessary. I'm not proud of it, but it may be helpful ![]() Hope that helps. Doug
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Doug W. Encinitas CA 2004 M380 Ex-PT36 |
#9
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I think I have everything I need to finally solve my charging , and battery issues. New wires, battery isolator, bus bar and inverter w charger , might need a few solenoids and fuses but we will see pictures soon
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#10
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Yes, some neat smart isolators exist from the marine industry these days which work great. I'd steer anyone towards Blue Sea Systems products, rather than the old static type isolators.
Good luck with your project! Doug
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Doug W. Encinitas CA 2004 M380 Ex-PT36 |
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