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BMC (Bluebird Motor Coach Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your BMC coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....List your BMC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 02-05-2010
AC7880 AC7880 is offline
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Default Brazel's Performance RV (BMC Service)

I am at Brazel's Performance RV in Centralia WA to spend a bunch of money. They have a good rep on review sites and with the BBB, and do service at various ralleys as well. They also have a little RV park attached with 50 amp, water, one sewer dump for the park (not at each site). http://www.brazelsrv.com/

I am getting a long list of stuff done. Things I used to do my self isn't really viable as a fulltimer so I am hiring out some things I would have done myself before.

Things having done (some today, some tomorrow):
Normal chassis and Cummins service, inspect steering, brakes, suspension, u-joints, air bags, all fluids, belts, hoses, etc.

Replace air dryer with a newer model with Econ valve that should reduce oil spitting (and resulting oil on toad). This is the one Bruce Cameron on the Yahoo BMC group put in years ago, with pic and text in the files area. Original air dryer is: Midland Graw Air Pure Plus air dryer. Replacement is: Midland (Haldex) DA34200 (34200 replaces older 33200). See Bruces info at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/BlueBirdBMCowners/files/Air%20Dryers/

Add Roadmaster sway bars. ($$) 94 BMC 37' has no factory sway bars, 95 to 97 did.

Set ride height, and perform coach alignment.

Replace stock muffler with Aero Turbine Series 4040XL muffler. I had no preference on any particular straight thru muffler, but they have this one in stock. The BMC uses a 4" piping system. I'll see if I can get a before and after dyno run to see if it helps, or is a waste of money. It looks like an easy add with a few hangers, and a short section of 4" straight pipe to make the same length as stock muffler. http://www.aeroexhaust.com/index.php...l-exhaust.html
EDIT: - CORRECT LINK TO 4040XL MUFFLER/RESONATOR:
http://www.aeroexhaust.com/index.php...l-exhaust.html


Dyno run today before any service, stock cummins 8.3 300 HP, Allison 3060:
HP today at rear axle 275 hp, foot lbs torque 770. I should have the chart in the next couple of days to scan if anyone wants to see the power curve on a 8.3 BMC 37'

I posted todays 4 corner weigh before ride ht adjust in another post.

I'm also having them check on cutoffs at the fuel filter to make on the road filter changes easier.
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Last edited by AC7880; 02-10-2010 at 01:32 AM.
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2010
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bwinter1946 bwinter1946 is offline
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Sounds great Dan.

I look forward to your report.

275 HP at the rear wheels sounds pretty good considering you are rated at 300 at the crank.

Good luck
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1997, 37' BMC
1999, Jeep Cherokee, Toad
1970, VW Baja Bug, Alternate Toad
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2010
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Great thread Dan.
The dyno results are impressive,seeing the graph will give you some ideas on how it wants to be driven too.

On the fuel filter,theres a remote mount that can be added to the engine to move the engine mounted filter out for eaiser filter changing.
Remember,adding any valves in the fuel lines may result in air/fuel leaks down the road.
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2010
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Lee Davis Lee Davis is offline
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Default BMC Work

Dan,

As you add these things would you mind adding the approximate cost for each new item (dryer, exhaust, etc) I may want to get some of this done myself, but cost is always an issue .

I am in the same situation as a full timer. I am somewhat surprised at how much I can do with minimum tools but still need to have stuff done a lot. One of the biggest problems is not being able to get under the bus very well. I am not a fan of crawling under there when it is just aired up or on the jacks.
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1995 BMC 37
300 HP Cummins 6CTA 8.3 Turbocharged Diesel
Boldly Going Nowhere
http://www.bbirdmaps.com/index.cfm #117
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2010
davidmbrady
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC7880 View Post
I am getting a long list of stuff done. Things I used to do my self isn't really viable as a fulltimer so I am hiring out some things I would have done myself before.
This is the basic problem of full timing - no place to work on the bus. Campgrounds hate it, it's impossible to carry all the tools required, and farming out the work is too expensive (plus many times the shops screw-up). If I were ever to full time, I'd own a garage somewhere with all my tools. For a small amount of money you could have 1000 sq ft of space. Stop in a few times a year to do the normal mtce items. Cheaper in the long run. I have 1800 sq ft of space in Cornelius NC. It's a garage condo. The ceiling is a good 18 ft high. Many of my neighbors have built loft living space with couches, tvs, running water, bathroom, providing a respite from days in the CG's while you work on your bus.
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Old 02-05-2010
AC7880 AC7880 is offline
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Lee,

At my house I was under the coach often, but with correct jack and jack stands under in addition to the hydraulic jacks. I no longer go under the coach without the jack stands that I sold (I kept one jack).

The muffler can be purchased on line for around $160 plus shipping, more at Brazel's for their overhead. Air dryer from Brazel's $550 with overhead, unkown if you buy direct.

I rebuilt the old air dryer once at home ($125 for kit at NAPA), and think it be replaced safely self help by driving rear tires up on blocks.

Same with muffler - drive up on blocks plenty of room. Muffler is shorter - so requires some 4" pipe, plus adapting or purchasing hangers. Original exhaust tip is direct fit.

Sway bars you already have, and I had a Safe-T-Plus added - unkown price if you buy direct - $650 Brazel full price - they cut me significant discount on safe-t-plus part and labor due to the other work I had done ($235 discount).

I paid a premium for a shop with a good rep that I trusted to do the work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Davis View Post
Dan,

As you add these things would you mind adding the approximate cost for each new item (dryer, exhaust, etc) I may want to get some of this done myself, but cost is always an issue .

I am in the same situation as a full timer. I am somewhat surprised at how much I can do with minimum tools but still need to have stuff done a lot. One of the biggest problems is not being able to get under the bus very well. I am not a fan of crawling under there when it is just aired up or on the jacks.
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2010
AC7880 AC7880 is offline
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Dyno results:

RPM: 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000 2100 2200
Stock HP 240 260 269 275 272 265 245 190 130
Stock Torque 775 776 752 725 690 625 550 415 275

Mod HP 270 285 290 293 286 262 205 140 65
Mod Torque 819 800 776 738 695 575 435 285 125

Gain:
HP 30 25 21 18 14 -3 -40 -50 -65
Torque 44 24 24 13 5 -50 -115 -130 -150

torque/hp cross at 2300 rpm stock, 2200 rpm with muffler mod


Edit: I added in torque from the charts for 1900, 2000, and 2100 rpm, and see why they left that off the results sheet. Power falls off with the mod over 1800 rpm. I'm around 1700 rpm at 60 - 65 mph. BUT, it looks like when the 3060 downshifts to climb a hill and rpms go up, I'll have less torque available. The 8.3 rpm limit is 2500 under load, 2800 under no load. My valve setting is dead on and I usually stay under the limits anyway - even downhill. Thoughts on hill climbing technique with the power curve? Better off with stock muffler?

I only ran 15 miles after the work,and was not towing the car - so seat of the pants will have to wait.

Info on the muffler in post above.
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Last edited by AC7880; 02-07-2010 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 02-06-2010
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Assuming these numbers are correct, 30 hp and 44 ft lbs at the wheels is a significant jump!!

I'll wait to hear your seat of the pants assessment. Do you have a mountain grade you can judge the result on?

In addition, how is the exhaust tone and volume with the new muffler?

Thanks for the update, Dan.
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1997, 37' BMC
1999, Jeep Cherokee, Toad
1970, VW Baja Bug, Alternate Toad
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  #9  
Old 02-06-2010
AC7880 AC7880 is offline
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Tone and volumn next to rear of coach at muffler at idle is good. I reved it a bit under the hood while standing back there - still good. Under load on the road at rear of coach?? Under load on the road at drivers seat just fine.

Concerned with the edit I loaded on the drop in torque over 1800 rpm - thought on that? No mountain grades to test on until after late April - mid May - hanging in west coast of WA.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bwinter1946 View Post
Assuming these numbers are correct, 30 hp and 44 ft lbs at the wheels is a significant jump!!

I'll wait to hear your seat of the pants assessment. Do you have a mountain grade you can judge the result on?

In addition, how is the exhaust tone and volume with the new muffler?

Thanks for the update, Dan.
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2010
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bwinter1946 bwinter1946 is offline
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Well two things:

In post #9 the RPM scale has 9 entries and the torque entry has 10 entries. I'll assume the -115 is a duplicate entry.

My personal opinion is I would be concerned about the torque loss at or above 1800 RPM. That is where "I" prefer to climb.

I prefer to spin the engine at about 1900-2200 RPM at a reduced power setting (lower gear) than run it at 1500-1700 RPM. I think it is better for the engine and trans for two reasons. I am fearful of lugging the engine and I want to ensure adequate cooling for both the engine and transmission.

Someone more knowledgeablre than me may jump in here and tell me I am all wet but that is my opinion.
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1970, VW Baja Bug, Alternate Toad
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