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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 09-06-2018
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RVinCT RVinCT is offline
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Default 120 vac air compressor

With our new coach, the 120 vac air compressor didn't work. So I tracked back.


Problem 1. No power at the compressor. There is a 120 vac junction box in that vompartment that power goes to. It has spade lugs. I think it is just a connection point for power using spade lugs, and the lug connected to the compressor was dead. The adjacent lug had power, however, as did the incoming power lead bringing power to the junction box. Tentative conclusion, the spade lug outgoing was broken.


I needed to know if the compressor was functional, so I moved the compressor spade lug to power and the compressor ran great. P1 solved.


Problem 2: The control switch on dash does not turn on off the compressor so it runs constantly. Reading the circuit diagram, there is a relay controlled by the dash switch. It's supposed to be in "RB1" which decodes to right bay 1, even though the compressor is in the left. I believe that relay sends power to the spade junction box, but I'm not sure (could the junction box have a hidden relay?)


Where is the relay for the 120 vac compressor? Once I find it, I can solve the problem of turnin on off the compressor.


Problem 3: When the compressor ran, air spewed out of the air pressure switch mounted above the compressor. Presumably, that pressure switch turns off the compressor when it reaches the set pressure. I can probably repair or replace it. The lesk is not in the hose from the compressor or in the fitting connecting that line to the air switch.


So, if anyone knows the location of the compressor relay controlled by the switch, let me have the secret. And if anyone can help me understand how the compressor interfaces and connects to the coach aie system, I'd appreciate it.


Steep learning curve, but fun and worth it.
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2007 Double Slide M380 "Bertie"
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  #2  
Old 09-06-2018
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Kiwi3 Kiwi3 is offline
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I used these for the compressor 12v controlling 120v. They will die after a time, but they are cheap. I haven't found a sturdier version yet.

uxcell Solid State Relay + Heat Sink + Thermal Compound
by uxcell
Link: http://a.co/d/cDpABFu

or

MYSWEETY 3PCS Solid State Relay
by MYSWEETY
Link: http://a.co/d/35538jM
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Old 09-06-2018
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Todd,
On P2, I think the dash switch controls the 12V compressor, not the 120VAC. I have 2 compressors in that forward bay, suspect you do too.

I can't remember if I have a 120VAC switch upstream of the pressure switch, like a like switch in the bay or not. You might check for a compressor breaker in the AC panel in the rear bedroom, too.

Doug
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Old 09-06-2018
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There is a compressor breaker in the rear, and it's on. I should be able to control the compressor power on off with it, but that breaker also runs two exterior 120v receptacles.



If the panel switch runs only the 12v compressor (manual describes it as an option) then does the 120v run all the time? If not, how is it controlled? The circuit diagram shows a switch and relay to control it.


OK, now I'm showing my ignorance, but there is a large air chamber in there with the 120v compressor and a small pump -probably 12v. It looked too small to do the same job as the 120vac compressor. I hadn't yet figured out what that small pump did. It's the 12v compressor? Can it provide pressure to inflate seals and extend slides and footwell cover?


How would I test it?



We had a lot of trouble with the dealer and never got a briefing on the coach, so it was toss us in and sink or swim.
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2007 Double Slide M380 "Bertie"
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Old 09-06-2018
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I believe my 12V compressor will run up to 100 psi or so where the engine compressor will run to 120 psi or so.

I've never run the 120VAC compressor at least independently. Maybe there is a relay which turns on the AC compressor, too.

I'm only 2 months ahead of you. I do know the step is not air activated like the older BBs (thankfully). It is electric. You've found the dash switch which controls that, I guess.

In terms of functionality of 12V vs 120VAC compressors, I'll let one of our M380 gurus weigh in. I think one of the compressors is set to maintain air pressure for the slide seals with not full chassis air pressure. My slide seal is set around 18 psi which seems to be acceptable.

Also, after you meet with George, do report back how things are supposed to work. Too many threads are left without conclusions and findings.

One further item, at Van's suggestion, I replaced some of the push-in type fittings for the air compressor lines with brass compression type. Apparently, the push in are leak prone.
That type of stuff, including adapters was available at home depot.
The thicker line is 3/8" and the smaller is 1/4".

I had a broken air line up there which was bleeding air, too.

Doug
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Old 09-06-2018
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Thank you, thank you. That answers some questions. Yes, there is a 12v pump in there. They had pulled the power connector, probably because it is also running all the time, possibly due to another busted relay. When I plug it in, it runs, but it may not be pumping and the dash switch does nothing. I saw a second air pressure switch in there and wondered about it. Clearly, it does the same thing for the 12v compressor as the broken one does for the 120vac compressor.


There's a water drain valve in the air tank bottom, but with the 12v pump running, no air pressure is released when I open that valve. I'll check the 12v compressor output later. Right now my tool supply is limited to what i could carry on the plane when we flew down to pick up the coach.
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2007 Double Slide M380 "Bertie"
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Old 09-07-2018
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George Morris is just about to leave here. Here's the story.

The air compressor switch on the dash controls the 120vac relay for the 120vac compressor. That relay is in what I called the spade junction box. It's apparently bad and will need to be replaced. The circuit diagram said it was on the right side of the coach, but it's on the left with the air compressors.

There is no switch for the 12v compressor. It's controlled only by the air pressure switch near it. The 12v is mainly for running the seals and lower pressure air systems. It feeds the air tank mounted near it. You don't want the noisy high pressure 120vac pump running at night if the seals leak.

The 120vac compressor is separate and feeds the same system as the engine compressor. The BB factory had trouble with compressors burning out when they tried to start against pressure in the line running to the air pressure switch that controlled it, so they went to a special air pressure switch that releases back pressure after the compressor stops. It's likely the hissing air I felt leaking out of that switch was that back pressure release system.

The bottom line is that I only need to replace the relay.
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2007 Double Slide M380 "Bertie"
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Old 09-07-2018
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Hey Todd-
good info! I guess I was close... but I'm no George (yet).


One thing I recently learned from Van might help you. The rear AC breaker panel has items only running off of the generator and items setup to run from the inverter split by sides of the breaker panel.

Keep that in mind as you troubleshoot.

Another thing I learned is the bigfoot levelers only operate with the ignition switch off, even if the lights flash after hitting the toggle switch with the ignition on.

Make sure you deploy the front slide only with full air pressure available. I do this with the coach engine running and after hearing the air dryer spit, but your compressor will get it close. In my case, that equates to 120 psi.

Happy and safe travels!

Doug
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Old 09-07-2018
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Default M380 Electric Air Pumps & Wiring Details

Love it when the lights start coming on!

Some don’t use both electric air pumps. I do, so wanted to control both because we boondock allot. Accordingly, I installled a simple On/Off switch in the air pump bay. It controls power to the small 12V DC pump and as you discovered, the dash switch controls the 120V AC pump via that relay. As Doug mentioned, making sure all the air fittings are sealed is important. Replacing the leaky first gen Sharkbite fittings was my first step in making that happen. If the On/Off “Pumptrol” pressure release switches go out, HD has them and they’re inexpensive. Just make sure to buy replacements with the correct PSI settings.

Did George check the pressures of your slide seals? Run them too high and you risk causing seal leaks. DonB and I run them just high enough to keep the gaps sealed (around 15-20 PSI). There’s a panel in bay 4L where the regulators can be adjusted using the pressure gauges.

Sometimes BB wired DC relays with two wires and used POS grounds! So pay attention to the minus sign on your multi-meter. Recent LED bay lighting post demonstrated that BB wiring “technique”. Take the manual diagrams and CB panel cover listings with a grain of salt. Have found quite a few that don’t match their diagramed locations. Eric Johnson’s excellent CB/Fuse spreadsheets will get you headed in the right direction. Go HERE to download and print them out. They go well with your official book of BB plans/diagrams. Much of the above is discussed in other WOG threads, just have to find them and Search function is the quickest way.

It seems you’re making fast progress
.
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Last edited by NoGas; 09-07-2018 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 09-07-2018
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@Van
Thanks for the link to the fuse, breaker and power spreadsheet. That saves me a lot of effort! One of the reasons we chose the Blue Bird (after nearly 2 years of looking) was this group of helpful owners and all the manuals and docs available here. It's always comforting to think you've got knowledgeable backup to call on when the fecal matter hits the rotary air mover.

@Kiwi3
Thanks for the SSR relay links. I'll be ordering one or more on we're back home. Those looked like the best option from Amazon, although I saw a zero crossing relay for $17 that I might try if the cheaper ones fail prematurely.
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2007 Double Slide M380 "Bertie"
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