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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system. |
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#1
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Well after more than a year of having the Inverter on the shop shelf, I finally got around to doing the install. Below are some thoughts and observations that might prove useful to others:
I removed all the batteries and the battery tray. After years of boiling, it was time for a new tray. I kept the same mounting brackets, but cut out the old tray and had a new tray welded back in its place. Looks great and it is stronger than before. I used the battery charger / Redi-Line inverter compartment for the new inverter location. I removed the two battery chargers and redi-line. Pulled the two relays attached to the compartment door used to detect ignition switch on and the bedroom override switch. Be sure and disconnect the generator battery before fooling with the relays. One of the relays (the one on the compartment forward wall) is the relay used to combine the coach and generator batteries. The size of the Magnum was too large to fit in the door. Removed the door and door frame. Added a small notch in the the metal behind the door to accomodate the Magnum base flange (will be hidden behind the door frame). Now the Magnum can be slide straight into the top shelf of the compartment where the battery chargers were located. Left the A/C lines long enough so I can slide the inverter out with the lines still connected. In the wardrobe closed where the Main panel was located, I relocated the main panel and the A/C and Heater On/Off Relay panel to the left about 6 inches. This allowed me to install a sub-panel to the right of the main panel. Added a dual 30amp breaker in the main panel to supply the inverter. Added 4 breakers in the sub panel; 1 for the ice maker, 1 for the microwave, 1 for the front outlets, and 1 for the kitchen / bedroom outlets. Routed two 10-3 cables from the wardrobe closet to the inverterk (1 for two 30 amp supply lines to the inverter, and 1 for supplying two 30 amp legs to the sub panel, split among the 4 breakers. Also routed the network cable for the Remote control panel and the Automatic Generator Start module. Added the positive and negative 4/0 supply cables from the inverter to the batteries. Included a 400amp Class T fuse in the positive lead. I also added a 350 amp continuous rated battery switch to disconnet all positive leads going to the batteries (coach and inverter connections). Now I will be able to easily shut off all the parasite loads. I decided to mount the remote control panel over the microwave. This is a central location, well ventilated, easy to route the wires, and a good surface for mounting. Very pleased on first test, everything worked... ![]() On the trip north (Marietta-Chicago for Thanksgiving), we were able to use the microwave, brew coffee, and watch a movie without the generator.... another first. It is really nice having the kids able to do their stuff without having to start up the generator. The quite is nice. Before, we either smoked out the toll booth worker and had to read lips for the toll amount or shut down the generator and have the kids complain out interrupting their movie at a critical time. Life used to be tough. ![]() Currently sitting in NW Chicago connected to a 15amp circuit with Magnum set to a max of 15amp charge circuit. Seems to be working great. With a little power managment, we can run the microwave, heat the hot water, (wife use the hair dryer) and keep the batteries topped off while staying warm. All this on a 15amp supply line. We could not do this last year without using the generator some. The neighbors are happy, except for the shadow we will cast on their lawn.... good thing it is raining. Should have installed it sooner!! ![]() Happy Thanksgiving, Glenn
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Glenn & Lisa 1986 PT-40 Marietta, GA |
#2
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Sounds great, did you get any pictures? Bet your happy now!
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Ryan and Michelle Saari Timberlake Products Group, Inc. 1985 PT36 1983 FC35RB Left me for Atlanta! Clearwater, Florida https://www.timberlakeproductsgroup.com/ https://www.ebay.com/str/timberlakeproductsgroup |
#3
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I have some pictures that I will post when I get back to a faster connection. I'm using an iPhone while on the road.
Yes... I'm tickled with the install results. Glenn
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Glenn & Lisa 1986 PT-40 Marietta, GA |
#4
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Glen,
Sounds like a nice install l look forward to seeing the photos in that I am working on upgrading that area also. Denny
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DennyCayman RUG and ART Sale Currently Columbus, GA 727 631 3844 1980 FC 33' SB |
#5
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Hey Glen getting ready to do the same thing with a Xantrex 458 20-12. What path did you use to get from the pain/sub panel to the Charger compartment? My panel should be like yours I think and is in the forward wardrobe closet at the bottom, next to the stove etc, and across from the Bathroom. I am really looking forward to the install. Taking a couple days off work to get it done.
THANKS
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Rob Willard 2000 Wanderlodge LXI 43 SOLD 1985 Wanderlodge PT36 SOLD Charlotte NC |
#6
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also Glen would LOVE to see a picture. Moving the main panel 6"?? within the same enclosure? Did you use some kind of new configuration in the same enclosure or add a whole new one? issues with the wire lengths that were there?
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Rob Willard 2000 Wanderlodge LXI 43 SOLD 1985 Wanderlodge PT36 SOLD Charlotte NC |
#7
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If anyone has a need to run electrical (AC) cabling under the coach for an inverter installation as I did, consider using "Sealtite" flexible conduit. Installed properly it is nearly indestructible and water tight. When I installed my inverter in the compartment where the RediLine used to be I didn't want to use the factory AC wiring, I wanted heavier. The easiest route for me was under the coach and up through the floor to access the AC panel. I used Sealtite for the run and appropriate fittings so that the entire route was completely sealed and the fittings only opened up the conduit after it was within the compartments on either end. Just a thought.....
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John Stiles 1980 33FC "My Navion". SOLD Stockbridge, GA |
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