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Caterpillar 3208 Solutions This sub-forum is hosted by Mike Hohnstein who has been at this kind of thing for 50+ years now, guess I'm addicted. The saga has been all about progressively larger shop space since then. Honestly, never wanted to get into the CAT 3208's that were originally considered to be a throwaway engine but that's all that works in a FC in my world. Same thing with my Ford toter, that came with a NA, too much effort to hang in a 6, so been at it with the CAT V-8 for 20 years now. In reality you can get excellent life out of a CAT 3208 if it's built correctly. Post your questions about the CAT 3208 engines here and Mike will try to help you out.

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  #11  
Old 07-23-2018
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Originally Posted by Rick View Post
No need to turn off the Solar. Even with my limited knowledge on the solar, I would question why not turn it off. Your batteries will only store so such power, wouldn't it degrade your batteries eventually?

I used the retarder on our SP on flat ground sometime.
The retarder is great on flat ground better yet for heavy stop & go traffic.
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  #12  
Old 07-23-2018
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Originally Posted by Mike Hohnstein View Post
Keep in mind ZF will work well with a wide variety of lubricants, I'd consider 10/30 or 15/40 engine oil @ service time particularly if operated in hilly terrain.
What’s the reason you would go with engine oil. I’ve seen the guys out in Colmar recommend that and seen it in the recommended lubricants ?
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  #13  
Old 07-23-2018
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To be perfectly honest the furthest I've driven her is the 120 mile trip home and in reality I'm so over my head it's actually really funny.
1st rv of any sort...so her we go.
"I would question why the solar is on while running down the road, redundant I would think unless you are pulling extra large loads."
Not having driven any distance since installing the panels and since I thought the solar panels and charge controller took care of charging levels I don't understand that, do I need a cutoff? Did you install a cutoff between your panels and the charge controller and between the charge controller to your battery bank?

As far as driving, I want to accelerate hard with solid crisp shifts?
I have yet to try hills with the retarder but I read that it could be kept on in flatland also to help with stopping, is that wise?

For posting I didn't mean for this to be posted in Mike's thread about jacks I had meant it for this as the starting post here. I was of the opinion that threads were meant for larger topics so I tried to group a couple of similar small questions together.

Out of curiosity doesn't the search, search content and subject for the search words or...For most everything I search first then I may ask.
I too am installing solar on our bird an have done a couple hundred hours on research, that is the only reason why I am questioning the cutoff. But as with anything in life there are a lot more people out there who are smarter than I and can provide us all with an intelligent & logical answer.
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  #14  
Old 07-23-2018
Charlie Fox Charlie Fox is offline
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With the solar install, which isn't finished by the way, I just wanted to keep things topped up till I can plug in at home. I had planned to ask about solar in another thread, but what I bought was Renogy, with 3 100 watt mono panels with a MPPT controller. The charge controller has 4 charging cycles so I assume it takes care of the batteries. It's hooked up but I need to fish wires to finish up.
The idea of "double" charging systems while on the road made me wonder if solar increases mileage or power if the alternator wasn't forced to make power all the time. crazy idea I know
As far a driving style goes I was just a little paranoid as to how hard to drive the engine. The tranny was a bit low on fluid and it was shifting very harshly when I got it, Per the blog I added fluid and now shifts like a dream.

"What’s the reason you would go with engine oil. I’ve seen the guys out in Colmar recommend that and seen it in the recommended lubricants ?"
In my humble opinion that's a loaded question, a lot of opinions and info about that on here.

As an aside till now I haven't seen much about the 3208T ZF combo on here. I was looking for some engine pics.
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  #15  
Old 07-23-2018
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It is my understanding that in warmer climates 15w40 will allow your tranny to run cooler. Colmar also suggested it to me but I stayed with Dexron. A few have switched, but I would also want to hear a few more pros on the issue.
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  #16  
Old 07-23-2018
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The ZF holds about 8 gallons, when draining and changing fluid and filter,
the refill is just under 5 gallons
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  #17  
Old 07-23-2018
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Engine oil has more lubricity, a good thing with a transmission retarder.
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2018
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It is a loaded question, but a good way to get information. Lubercity is a straight forward answer not much to dispute there.

Has anyone on here actually tried the motor oil ?

I’ve read about people using motor oil in they’re boat transmissions to quite them down.

From what I understand atf is straight 10w.

I went with Syntec ATF, stuff wasn’t cheap. It would be nice to have something that doesn’t get as hot giving more margin on the retarder, I get up to 240f on the tranny then shut it off, I’m doing a lot of mountain driving lately more braking is never a bad thing. The Bluebird gauge seems to run hotter(colors) than what’s in the ZF book.
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  #19  
Old 07-24-2018
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My toter home has a 13 sp manual. It was noisy, obnoxious and hard to shift, ran hot too. Lube was 80/90 gear oil. Did some research, put straight 40wt motor oil in there after dumping the heavier grease. All better in every way.
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  #20  
Old 07-24-2018
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the allison is really good and relatively cheap, very reliable as it has no electronics, the ZF is amazing to drive compared to the allison but good forbid if you break it.....(hard to break, however)
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