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  #11  
Old 03-18-2013
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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So,your bay door locks.
Do they work at all?
Some do,some don't?
Tell us about them.
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  #12  
Old 03-18-2013
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doszorros doszorros is offline
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George:

Correct! That appears to be the correct solonoid and is better than buying from a wrecking yard.
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2003 LXI dble. slide
SERIES 60
Alaska & Mexico
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  #13  
Old 03-18-2013
George Roberts George Roberts is offline
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Thanks Fox!

I have done the Alaska, you will have to tell me more about Mexico. I need to put that on my agenda. I may stay a while if I could find the right place.
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1994 WLWB 40' "No Reservations"
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Fruita Colorado
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  #14  
Old 03-19-2013
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I put bay locks on a 1982 PT40 years ago using GM door locks from a wrecking yard. I put two 12 volt solonoids in the front right overhead to operate the locks, one for each polarity. The bay locks worked great for the several year period I owned the coach and they still worked fine when I sold the coach to a gentleman from Florida. I have not had any contact information regarding the coach since then.

This was a 1982 PT40 that I put a 1987 front end on, new interior and new paint. There was a feature article on the rebuild in a Bus Conversion Magazine in the mid 1990's.
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2003 LXI dble. slide
SERIES 60
Alaska & Mexico
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  #15  
Old 04-06-2013
George Roberts George Roberts is offline
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OK I got the new lock but still can't get it to work. I do feel I have to be all over the problem. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

This always worked and then I broke 3 wires one day rather than just one. I haven't figured out how to wire it up since. I am pretty sure the old lock solenoid is bad as it measures open with an ohm meter and the new one measures about 3 ohms. I didn't install the new one just ran the wires to it to see if it would energize and it never would. I do hear what sounds like a relay in the front of the coach somewhere in front of the door when I work the switch. I do wonder if installing it would add a necessary ground, but I don't think so.

Here is why I think I am all over it.

These wires are coming out of the coach to the door.
There are 6 wires.
1) Orange with black line. goes to a wire that is orange with black line. Pretty sure correct
2) Brown with orange line - this one is in question it reads 13 v unless I work the switch
3) Black with a yellow line - this one is in question
4) Gray - goes to gray Pretty sure correct
5) White - goes to white Pretty sure correct
6) Black - this one in question

Here is why I think I am all over it.

The three wires in question have 3 places to go. 2 go to the solenoid and one goes to a switch that detects if the door is locked or unlocked. I can't tell if it is part of the lock circuit or is just for a security circuit to tell if door is locked or unlocked.

When I hang my meter on the #2 brown with orange line and ground or either of the other two in question I have 13 v. When I work the lock unlock switch open one of them goes to 0v and when I work the switch to lock the other will go to 0v. So I have to be all over it don't I?

Help please I am scratching my head and about out of ideas. I can't figure out how this circuit should be working but about to figure I must have another issue here other than broken wires and a bad solenoid, which would be hard to believe.

Hard to believe I was about engineer level at one time in electronics. That was 25 years ago though.
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Fruita Colorado
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  #16  
Old 04-06-2013
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doszorros doszorros is offline
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George:

It has been some time since I worked with this but I give you the following from an aging memory.

The unit works from reverse polarity. Put + on one side and - on the other side and the linear actuator will move in one direction. Reverse the wires and it should move in the other. The door lock switch should reverse the polarity. The switch is a left/center/right switch. When you push left, one wire should be positive. When you push right, the other wire should be positive. The pushbutton has to be depressed while you are doing this or the circuit is deactivated.

The pushbutton on the door activates the circuit when it is depressed (door closed) and deactivates the circuit when up (door open).
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2003 LXI dble. slide
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  #17  
Old 04-06-2013
Donn B Donn B is offline
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George, I can't help because I still haven't gotten mine figured out and it is a different coach anyway, but I did discover that on mine there is a loop-back circuit that goes through the alarm system. With mine there are a lot of "creative" PO alterations with yards of added wiring and inexplicable splices, so I finally back-burnered the project to concentrate on more pressing issues... like a toilet that works without leaking all over the deck.
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1990 WB-40 Royal Conversion
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  #18  
Old 04-06-2013
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George, I share your frustration. Mine will work for 2-3 days then quit. A dose of graphite will get it back to working for another 2-3 days. I truly believe there's a gremlin in mine that laughs and grins then plays a trick.

I hope you get yours to working like it should and post pics where the rest of us can see what you did

We're counting on you!
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  #19  
Old 04-06-2013
George Roberts George Roberts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doszorros View Post
George:

It has been some time since I worked with this but I give you the following from an aging memory.

The unit works from reverse polarity. Put + on one side and - on the other side and the linear actuator will move in one direction. Reverse the wires and it should move in the other. The door lock switch should reverse the polarity. The switch is a left/center/right switch. When you push left, one wire should be positive. When you push right, the other wire should be positive. The pushbutton has to be depressed while you are doing this or the circuit is deactivated.

The pushbutton on the door activates the circuit when it is depressed (door closed) and deactivates the circuit when up (door open).
Like I say, I think we are all over it.

There are only two wires to the switch. One is black and goes up to leave the door. One would think this would be the black wire from the coach, but I can't prove that yet. The other wire is white and goes to frame ground. Thats makes me think the 13V wire can't go to the switch, but don't know yet.

You are telling me the switch IS part of the lock circuit and that is more than I knew.
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1994 WLWB 40' "No Reservations"
Towed: 2008 Jeep Sahara Limited Hardtop 4X 4
Fruita Colorado
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  #20  
Old 04-06-2013
George Roberts George Roberts is offline
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No pressure Tommy.

I just can't believe I would have more than two issues. I'll figure it out. Even car circuits I can find on google haven't helped me understand this yet. I will get it.
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Fruita Colorado
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