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  #71  
Old 03-31-2016
sfedeli's Avatar
sfedeli sfedeli is offline
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Propane boils at -44 F. I have experienced a few cases where I had to immerse a portable tank in a basin of water to make it boil... and this was in temps around 30 degrees. If you're going to rely on propane when it's down around 0, have a magnetic block heater around that you can attach to the tank to warm it up. Also make sure that the tank is at least 1/2 full.

As far as "routine" travel in sub-zero temps, a coach must be in nearly PERFECT working order. Cold weather will test every system on your coach- fuel, batteries, coolant, plumbing and seals. Mix up a heavy brine solution (5 gallons of warm water and 3# of table salt) and dump this into each of the holding tanks. Leave the fresh water system winterized and use blue winshield washer fluid to flush the commode. Make sure your air dryer's cartridge has been serviced and works (spits). Make sure the heater on the air dryer works too. It's not a bad idea to infuse some air-line antifreeze into the air system prior to a winter trip. We've experienced frozen leveling valves, pilot valves and sticky brake chambers when I failed to use the airline antifreeze.

If you are heading north from SC, anti-gelling additive (or kerosene) should be added to the fuel tank when fueling to make sure it's evenly dispersed; or just buy fuel up north. A very RELIABLE generator and block heater are a must- especially if you get stranded in a Wal-Mart! You may be there for a few days and will need to run the generator often to keep warm.
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  #72  
Old 03-31-2016
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jyclegg jyclegg is offline
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Some of you may know that I have been into ski racing until just recently. And, of course I used my Wanderlodge, and other motor homes. The great thing about the motor home at the ski area is slope side accommodations at very little cost. The bad thing can be winter.
I have only once had a propane vaporization problem. 38 degrees below, not the windchill, the temp. Always used the propane heat.
I don't winterize the coach. I keep the heat on and I use heat tape. I know many here disagree with heat tape, but there is heat tape and then there is heat tape. I use low wattage, 4-7/ft, low temp, 120 degree, self regulating, with a SS braided cover, that is grounded. The Dupree valves will break if you try to open them below freezing.
Fuel will gel. There is #1, #2, and winter blended. If you are in ND, or somewhere like that, you can blend your own #1 and #2 for the temps you expect. If you are in say Indiana the Pilot will have a blended fuel for the expected lows of the next 3 weeks or so. Since I won't consume all the fuel in 3 weeks, I add the anti-gel to the max strength. You can still gel, and the Racor will catch it and plug. The old, don't ask how I know this.
But, Shane's point about how hard it is on systems is spot on. Some may remember my blow hyd hose on a 15 below day in Brule, MI. Because of this, I will start the engine from the rear when the temp is anything colder than about 10. Belts like to fly off. Idling is not a bad thing at low temp. vs restarting.
The 120V block heater works great, and it will start right up, unless the wind is blowing on the back or the coach. Then the battery blankets and the block heater can't keep up if it is colder than about 10 with a 20mph wind. So, I add tarps over the engine and batteries, under the "hood"
I also carry a torpedo heater and a heat gun, for those unexpected issues.
Of course cold weather clothing and gloves are a must. I wear nitrile gloves under my work gloves, then if I need to do something that requires fingers, I don't have to go glove less, even for a minute.
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