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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #11  
Old 05-14-2011
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If you go to the HWH site, you can find a link that will let you find certified places to work on them in your neck of the woods.
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  #12  
Old 05-14-2011
fxdwg fxdwg is offline
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There's rebuild instructions here on the forum, iirc. Gardendoc did his and did a good write up with pictures. He got the seals locally.
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  #13  
Old 05-15-2011
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Default Past experience with HWH

Yea, I know, I am Air Operated HWH guy. My 3 cents say, if all else fails or whatever, HWH in Moscow , IA is real easy to get to. They provide a free hook up on premises (no water/sewer) and are very congenial. After 2 different visits and long days of troubleshooting, they were finally able to get my system back on line. Charges, $$ minor, happy, yes. Just be careful, I have no idea how the manual(s) work, but if you need to get under the coach, BE CAREFUL and have it properly supported first. Good Luck.
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  #14  
Old 05-15-2011
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These old manual HWH system seems to be pretty straight forward from what I am gathering by my readings. It seems to be basic "barnyard" technology, and obviously way less complicated than the automatic systems are. The hydrolics seem to liken to a disk brake system on a bike, or car,or even my old 9n ford tractor's 3 point lift, meaning You need fluid pressure to make something move/operate. In this case, a pump motor provides the pressure instead of an engine turning a shaft to a pump, or a human having to pull/push a lever to build pressure. One thing that throws me so far about these jacks is: What makes them swing down from the stored position? Does this happen if I have the system powered up and push a control lever toward the street side?....Oh, by the way, please don't fret over me getting hurt by my bus crushing me when I crawl around under it, because I leave the suspension dumpped and I don't raise it. Once the fatboy is under it I seem to have enough room to do what I need, but thanks for the saftey reminders and if I ever change my mind and need to raise it, I'll ask y'all for advice for the best proven method to do this in my driveway
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  #15  
Old 05-15-2011
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There is a smaller cylinder strapped to the main one. The small one lowers the jack then the fluid is directed to the main cylinder.
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  #16  
Old 05-15-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoagie View Post
These old manual HWH system seems to be pretty straight forward from what I am gathering by my readings. It seems to be basic "barnyard" technology, and obviously way less complicated than the automatic systems are. The hydrolics seem to liken to a disk brake system on a bike, or car,or even my old 9n ford tractor's 3 point lift, meaning You need fluid pressure to make something move/operate. In this case, a pump motor provides the pressure instead of an engine turning a shaft to a pump, or a human having to pull/push a lever to build pressure. One thing that throws me so far about these jacks is: What makes them swing down from the stored position? Does this happen if I have the system powered up and push a control lever toward the street side?....Oh, by the way, please don't fret over me getting hurt by my bus crushing me when I crawl around under it, because I leave the suspension dumpped and I don't raise it. Once the fatboy is under it I seem to have enough room to do what I need, but thanks for the saftey reminders and if I ever change my mind and need to raise it, I'll ask y'all for advice for the best proven method to do this in my driveway


Hoagie,

Make sure that you follow step #4 and push the spring loaded lever all the way to the extend position, that is when you should hear the pump running and the levelers will then start to go down.

Here is the link to the HWH files in the Database, I've included all of them just in case another WOG members needs one for a different model.

Wanderlodge Owners Group > Links, Files, Old Yahoo Forum Database and Downloads > Manuals and Files Stored in This Forums Software DATABASE > Index of Downloaded Manuals and Files in Forums Software Database >FILES & DIRECTORIES >
[DIR] HWH/
16000# KICK-DWN JACK..> 13-Aug-2010 07:09 15k
EARLYMODLEVELERCONTR..> 15-May-2011 04:55 143k
HWH Computerized Lev..> 13-Aug-2010 06:59 6.3M
HWH LEVELER OIL ml23..> 20-Aug-2010 21:41 514k
HWH Manual Leveling ..> 13-Aug-2010 06:57 2.9M
HWH PARTSMANUAL.pdf 20-Aug-2010 21:49 17
HWHRepairManual.pdf 13-Aug-2010 07:00 4.2M
HWHrebuild.pdf 15-May-2011 13:13 260k
HWHrebuild.doc 13-Aug-2010 07:13 284k
JACKS WIRING.pdf 15-Jun-2010 12:20 14k
[DIR]HWH-SER610/ 13-Aug-2010 06:44
HWH610SER REPAIR.pdf 13-Aug-2010 06:44 542k
HWH610SER SERV-1.pdf 13-Aug-2010 06:44 526k
HWH610SER SERV-2.pdf 13-Aug-2010 06:44 501k



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  #17  
Old 05-15-2011
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So, they are a "double acting" cylinder? Meaning that pressure & flow are used to move the cylinder up & down? I thought that some are spring loaded to bring them up and the hyrdaulic portion was to extend (down) to level. Always something to learn, and to know, about these things. Thanks all
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  #18  
Old 05-15-2011
Clueless Clueless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rahangman View Post
So, they are a "double acting" cylinder? Meaning that pressure & flow are used to move the cylinder up & down? I thought that some are spring loaded to bring them up and the hyrdaulic portion was to extend (down) to level. Always something to learn, and to know, about these things. Thanks all
Actually on the older ones, there are 2 cylinders. A small kickdown cylinder (the actuator) that moves to full extension via pressure rotating the jack to vertical.

Once the kickdown cylinder on the actuator reaches full extension and pressure is still applied, the the main cylinder (the jack) will extend to raise and level via pressure.

They are spring retract. Once pressure is removed, a big spring pulls all this back to "retracted".

Mounting Pin kits are about 15 bucks.

Actuators are 220 new, 160 rebuilt.

Not sure about a $20 rebuild kit. Never heard of it.

I was going to take one leaky jack apart to rebuild per the excellent procedure contained in the forum database. Thought it seemed easy enough.

Along with the 4 mounting bolts, the mounting plate was tacked in a couple of places. Couple of sawzall blades and way too long holding the saw finally got it loose. (i don't like grinders by fuel and this one was right under the Genny gasoline tank.) The mounting pins with the allen head weren't willing to come out without a bit of smoke either.

When I got the jack in the shop, there was no opening to a bolt in the foot of the jack that I could find. I wire brushed the entire foot real shiny.

The leak turned out to be a cracked actuator..hence the price quote above.

Funny how a "simple" job like this can turn into a weeks worth of messing around. It's just one small step at a time. Easy enough, but not quick.

2 more jacks were fixed also, one needed new mounting bolt kit, the other had a bent actuator cylinder, but with this actuator and the one with the cracked housing, I had parts to make one good one.

All needed new kickdown rollers.

Funny how when you have one of these Birds, you can learn so many ways to combine cuss words. Just like kids, you love them, but.....
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  #19  
Old 05-15-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rahangman View Post
So, they are a "double acting" cylinder? Meaning that pressure & flow are used to move the cylinder up & down? I thought that some are spring loaded to bring them up and the hyrdaulic portion was to extend (down) to level. Always something to learn, and to know, about these things. Thanks all
Nope.. they are simple single action cyclinders. I believe the fluid must travel through the small cylinder to fill the larger one. That pressure created causes the small cylinder to "kick-down" the larger one. I've seen many attempts to rebuild these not kick-down once complete. I'm going to take one of my leaking ones apart and figure out how these work in detail as it seems to be a common rebuild mistake.

I think I may practice on "RUBY" first! hee hee hee

Once the correct o-ring sizes are obtained (from any hydraulic shop) then rebuilds shouldn't cost more than $20 per cylinder as mention. HWH doesn't want to provide those partly due to loss of revenue and partly due to liability I'm sure.
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  #20  
Old 05-15-2011
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Dave & Michael,

These pictures show an Allen screw plug

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...HWHrebuild.doc
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